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  #1  
Old 04-13-2017, 08:21 PM
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Default Starter solenoid wire to ignition coil

I was reading on here regarding the wire going from the starter solenoid directly to the ignition coil, bypassing the resistor during start. Looking at my starter solenoid, I don´t have this wire. Was there an option to have this wire or not, or should all 58´s have this? Could there be any good reason to not have this wire connected?
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:38 PM
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If you have two wires on the front of your solenoid you have the coil wire. It should be brown. All Squarebirds had that wire. It was not an option.

John
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Old 04-13-2017, 08:55 PM
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Thanks John. I will have a look at the solenoid on Sunday. The wiring diagram shows the wire for starting on one post of the solenoid, and the wire directly to the coil from the other post. And on my bird the second (small) post has nothing connected to it. So there should be two wires connected to the front small post of the solenoid?
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:01 PM
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Yes, you should have a wire on the right post. Without that wire your car should not start so it sounds like someone modified the original wiring.

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Old 04-13-2017, 11:45 PM
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If your car has been converted to a 12 volt coil rather than 8v, then this wire is not required due to not needing to bypass the resister as there isn't one any more.

Maybe check your wiring harness, has someone cut it off where it exits the harness, can you see the base of the brown wire been cut off anywhere? You should have one.
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Old 04-14-2017, 12:06 AM
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My car still has the resistor, so that seems to be original. I will see on Sunday if I can find any traces of the brown wire.
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:10 PM
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It took a bit more time, but today checked the existence of the second thin wire on the starter solenoid (brown one), but its not there. The aft small post on the solenoid has nothing connected to it. The engine does start,
eventhough it takes quite some time to fire it up. But i had the idea that it comes from lack of fuel. My carburator is dry when i don´t start the bird for a few days.
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:18 PM
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Are you still running the Autolite 4100 carburetor? I too had the problem of it going dry after a day or 2. After several attempts, I finally got it fixed. I would set the carburetor on the work bench and the float bowls wouldn't go dry and then I'd put it on the car and I couldn't get them to hold fuel. I finally found that the tapered spacer between the carb and manifold was badly warped and out of shape. I used a flat plate and some fine sandpaper and straightened that tapered spacer. Then I carefully torqued the carb to the manifold and the problem went away.
Just thought I'd let you know what worked for me.
Nyles
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird1044 View Post
Are you still running the Autolite 4100 carburetor? I too had the problem of it going dry after a day or 2. After several attempts, I finally got it fixed. I would set the carburetor on the work bench and the float bowls wouldn't go dry and then I'd put it on the car and I couldn't get them to hold fuel. I finally found that the tapered spacer between the carb and manifold was badly warped and out of shape. I used a flat plate and some fine sandpaper and straightened that tapered spacer. Then I carefully torqued the carb to the manifold and the problem went away.
Just thought I'd let you know what worked for me.
Nyles
Yes, even a brand new spacer can be warped.

I had to do the glass-and-sandpaper trick on mine - and then again about eight or so years later when I next had the carb off.
Although in my case it was a vacuum leak rather than a direct carb problem.
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:45 PM
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I believe the idea of the 12v source was to have a fatter spark while you are trying to start the car. Once started, that source ceases and you have the 6V (or whatever it provides) source from the ballast resistor.

If you car is reluctant to start, that might be a reason. On the other hand, if it starts well then the 12V source is not important.

Best plan is probably to reproduce what Ford had.

John
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