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  #31  
Old 04-10-2017, 01:59 AM
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Djweaz Djweaz is offline
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I've heard with the 430 MEL that they had a lot of fuel issues with the location in front of the engine. Others have told me that they did as you did and moved it from the stock location. They have done it from the 60's. I was going to change it and one of my buddies said change it all you want but the issue you have is weak spark. He said first thing was get rid of all that rubber fuel line laying on your intake. I believe he said you shouldn't have more than 6 inches of rubber fuel lines in sections. Mine looks stupid because my metal fuel line starts at the fuel filter and goes along the valve cover than a left turn across the back of the engine and a left turn again and another left turn into the carb. My edelbrock 1406 and its fuel inlet is on the back corner of the right hand side of the carb and it's going to stay that way until I find another way to do it. I might go across the front of the engine and another right straight into the inlet. As I just smacked myself as to why I didn't do that in the first place lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
Mine does almost exactly the same thing, except
mine will idle all day long. It's seems purely load
based, so I don't think it is a timing chain issue
(that and idle timing with light is real smooth, not
jumping around like a loose chain would).

I need to go all through the distr timing sometime
this summer. If it does turn out to be my chain is
that bad, I will wait and pull the engine/trans in
the fall to regasket both. This thing is a rocket even
at half throttle, could live with it as is forever, if needed.

I did rebuild carb and it did nothing. I don't think it
is a fuel issue unless electric pump just can't keep up.
I moved that pump to right in front of gas tank and
rewired using larger guage wire and relay that comes
off batt.
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  #32  
Old 04-10-2017, 09:27 PM
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Got my Ballast Resistor in today. Put it in and I was up and running just like that. Only had time for that as I was putting the rear bumper on today. Tomorrow is back to resetting the carb again tweaking the timing it's at 6 degrees BTDC as it sits. I was reading some place, might have been here on another thread or someplace else I read that you might have to tweak the timing some more to get it better. Then I will start on to trouble shooting the windows and determine if I have to replace switches, plugs, power window relay or 15/30 amp fuses. I know that 2 have no voltage. One(Driver window) worked when I started and it lost voltage. The passenger rear didn't have power when I started so I have multiple issues. Fun day tomorrow lol
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  #33  
Old 04-10-2017, 10:18 PM
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I like to set my advance between 8 and 10 degrees. Any more and you will most likely get pinging and hard starting when it's hot. I also use a higher octane gas than regular.

John
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  #34  
Old 04-11-2017, 02:30 AM
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I will check that check out what I am set at on it. It is a new the other was shot. Basically I am going through the whole car. It sat holed up for years it's a garage/barn find. I've spent thousands in it in the year I have owned it but it is worth it at least to me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I like to set my advance between 8 and 10 degrees. Any more and you will most likely get pinging and hard starting when it's hot. I also use a higher octane gas than regular.

John
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  #35  
Old 04-11-2017, 06:54 AM
OX1 OX1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Djweaz View Post
I've heard with the 430 MEL that they had a lot of fuel issues with the location in front of the engine. Others have told me that they did as you did and moved it from the stock location. They have done it from the 60's. I was going to change it and one of my buddies said change it all you want but the issue you have is weak spark. He said first thing was get rid of all that rubber fuel line laying on your intake. I believe he said you shouldn't have more than 6 inches of rubber fuel lines in sections. Mine looks stupid because my metal fuel line starts at the fuel filter and goes along the valve cover than a left turn across the back of the engine and a left turn again and another left turn into the carb. My edelbrock 1406 and its fuel inlet is on the back corner of the right hand side of the carb and it's going to stay that way until I find another way to do it. I might go across the front of the engine and another right straight into the inlet. As I just smacked myself as to why I didn't do that in the first place lol
Just don't think fuel is my issue unless as mentioned
that electric pump is really weak. I also rerouted line along
the same path as vac booster and over front of motor.
Mostly to hide it as I still have mech pump installed
with faux lines that run nowhere, for looks at the shows.
Like the 430, that front mounted upside down pump is a conversation piece.

Anyway, I have 30 odd years of messing with Carters/Eedelbrocks.
It is IMO, way too consistent to be vapor lock and it happens when it's
dead cold, the same as hot. It would either have to be the accel
pump is not working at all or the secondary fuel circuit
is clogged. Neither of those are the case.

The main problem I have with these carbs is from
ethanol fuel, sitting too long (even with the latest
additives that supposedly eliminate the problem).
The low RPM/idle circuit gets slightly gummed up or clogged,
and then it won't idle warmed up. Off idle and higher
it is fine. It's happened 3 times on my classic bronco in
the past couple years. Pull out metering rods and primary
air horns. Blow everything out and it's right as rain again.

I have swapped to elect ign and swapped coils. Coil
voltage seems fine, so I don't think I have a weak spark.
That said, if I go through timing and everything seems OK,
I am going to drop the extra wideband setup I have kicking
around, temporarily, and see what that tells me.
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  #36  
Old 04-12-2017, 11:36 PM
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Djweaz Djweaz is offline
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Man you have gone through a lot trying to get it going properly. I had issues of mine as soon as I got it but could drive anyplace without much of an issue. I refused to work in it at all unless it was a major issue. The rod for my brakes that goes through the booster in to the M/C was a major issue 2 times. It won't break again I can assure you of that. Going into cruising system would have been my 3rd year of not making any shows. I had a 41 Mercury long door coupe with a 355 that would hit a lick because of the big mutha thumpr cam. Was a pretty good car with the exception of the previous owner heated the coils down so they rubbed even going straight I pulled it all out and replaced everything in the front end and then I got to check out the wiring it was stripped as bare as you could get. Had an 8 glass fuse "fuse box" that they used for race cars back in the day, nothing more that a piece of Leather with connectors for the fuses.

Some people don't like to show off their engines. Saying some shows are nothing but showing off their engines and all the chrome they have put on them. I think differently about it. I pull my hood up at every one. I have a numbers matching 59 430 and you don't see them everyday especially one that's so clean. And your are right people that see Squarebirds every one of them are looking for that 430 and they will tell you everything you should know about them. It's all in fun I let them tell me again. One guy came back every week to tell me the same thing haha


Quote:
Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
Just don't think fuel is my issue unless as mentioned
that electric pump is really weak. I also rerouted line along
the same path as vac booster and over front of motor.
Mostly to hide it as I still have mech pump installed
with faux lines that run nowhere, for looks at the shows.
Like the 430, that front mounted upside down pump is a conversation piece.

Anyway, I have 30 odd years of messing with Carters/Eedelbrocks.
It is IMO, way too consistent to be vapor lock and it happens when it's
dead cold, the same as hot. It would either have to be the accel
pump is not working at all or the secondary fuel circuit
is clogged. Neither of those are the case.

The main problem I have with these carbs is from
ethanol fuel, sitting too long (even with the latest
additives that supposedly eliminate the problem).
The low RPM/idle circuit gets slightly gummed up or clogged,
and then it won't idle warmed up. Off idle and higher
it is fine. It's happened 3 times on my classic bronco in
the past couple years. Pull out metering rods and primary
air horns. Blow everything out and it's right as rain again.

I have swapped to elect ign and swapped coils. Coil
voltage seems fine, so I don't think I have a weak spark.
That said, if I go through timing and everything seems OK,
I am going to drop the extra wideband setup I have kicking
around, temporarily, and see what that tells me.
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1959 Thunderbird J-Code
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#15794
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