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  #11  
Old 12-30-2016, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frango100 View Post
So just checked the vacuum advance actuator and its completely shot. When applying a light vacuum, you can hear the air being sucked in via the distributer housing opening. So its time for a new one. Dont know if there are different brands available, but is there any better then others?
I had exactly that issue recently!
Have a look at the thread I started on the Vacuum Advance topic, I got some good advice there and now have a new vacuum 'can' fitted to my distributor.
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  #12  
Old 12-30-2016, 03:37 PM
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Looking around locally for a new vacuum advance actuator I found a NOS P/N B7A-12370-A.
According the description this should fit the 352.
Can anyone confirm this?
Is it wise to buy NOS in this case? I can imagine that the diaphragm inside the actuator can have dried out over time.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2016, 03:47 PM
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That is the correct part number for your car. However in this case I would be leery of using an NOS part. Vacuum advance diaphragms are made of rubber and depending how long ago the part was manufactured the diaphragm could have deteriorated somewhat just sitting on a shelf. If you can buy it for considerably less than a new aftermarket one I would take a chance but I wouldn't overpay for it.

John
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2016, 05:49 PM
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There is also a B9AF-12370-A that is listed for the 58-9. Not sure but I think the difference is that one has a straight actuating arm and the other is curved, with the B7A being for the earlier versions with the straight arm. The new advance readily available has a hose nipple on the diaphragm while the originals had a fitting that accepted the steel line. Not a big deal to swap it over.
Carl
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  #15  
Old 12-31-2016, 11:32 AM
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Thanks John and Carl. So can both P/Ns (straight arm or curved arm) be used on my 58 distributor?
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:25 AM
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I know the curved arm can't be used in the straight arm distributor but have no experience using the straight arm advance in the curved arm distributor.
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  #17  
Old 01-02-2017, 02:35 PM
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I just took the vacuum advance actuator from the distributor. I have the curved arm actuator and i doubt that a straight arm will fit in there. I will have a look for a curved arm actuator here locally, or order one from Rockauto.
The vacuum advance actuator has a possibility for adjusting the amount of vacuum when it starts advancing. Is there a procedure how to do this? I know on my old actuator it had several shims (rings) under the spring, as adjustment.
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  #18  
Old 01-07-2017, 07:25 PM
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Received and installed the new vacuum advance actuator and put three of the previously used 5 washers on the spring in the actuator. While I adjusted the ignition to about 7 without the vacuum connected, it went to over the 20 with it connected. I understood that the vacuum advance should give max 10, is this true? I put the other two washers in there as well and the advance went back to just below the 20. (at idle). When I revd it up it went to just over the 30.
I was reading some literature about vacuum advance and the guy over there said to NOT use the constant vacuum port, since at idle you dont want a lot of advanced ignition. I now have two opposite stories, so what is the best to do?
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Old 01-07-2017, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frango100 View Post
. When I revd it up it went to just over the 30.
I was reading some literature about vacuum advance and the guy over there said to NOT use the constant vacuum port, since at idle you dont want a lot of advanced ignition. I now have two opposite stories, so what is the best to do?
Use any port that eminates BELOW the throttle plates, you DON'T want to use 'ported vacuum' which is from above the throttle plates.

At a light throttle opening this will give you maximum timing advance, this is when you want all that advance.
When you hit the gas pedal hard the vacuum will drop - as will the advance, this again is what you want ( well what your engine needs to be precise - otherwise it will ping like a Jamaican steel drum band!)

At idle all that advance from the high vacuum doesn't matter, your engine has no load on it at that time.
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  #20  
Old 01-08-2017, 03:14 AM
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I'm with Tom. Use manifold vacuum not ported.

When cranking your engine there is NO vacuum (or very little). This helps the starter motor. As soon as it starts, your vacuum actuator adds lots of advance because the engine is not under load. Set your initial timing around 6 with the vacuum hose off.

Total Advance includes the initial advance. For example, if we start with 6BTDC at idle with the vacuum hose off, and slowly increment the speed in 500-rpm increments, the timing marks should steadily advance to ~36 at 2,500-RPM and hold there with no more increase as RPMs raise further.

Vacuum advance is totally separate as it performs a completely different function. Cranking, we should expect to see very little vacuum advance. When running, as the throttle opens under load, vacuum goes down. When climbing hills there is very little vacuum. So vacuum advance is designed for steady throttle conditions and it adds to Total Advance.

For this reason, the vacuum module 'dithers' at a light. When you add more pedal vacuum decreases and so does advance. When you lift off the gas, vacuum resumes and it adds more advance.

If you experience pinging (usually under load), set your timing back or restrict the vacuum module so it cannot add too much advance. This is why I buy adjustable (with an Allen wrench) vacuum advance modules. - Dave
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