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  #41  
Old 12-05-2016, 11:17 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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That brings up another question regarding engine noise. I don't have a problem, but my 352 chugging along reminds me somewhat of the boats African Queen or Orca. Like driving in one of those Ford vans that take you from the airport to your hotel. The exhaust sounds great and the engine runs great. There's no abnormal lifter or rocker noises. Everything checks out as it was rebuilt at 72K, and it's now at 81K. Back in the day, I just don't recall my brothers 1964 390 sounding so...dated. There's definitely that distinctive difference between riding in a 1958 Ford vs a 1958 Chevy. Could it be noise from the draft tube? Just recently another "funny thing" happened when I put 10W-30 synthetic in for the last oil change. The engine got quieter instead of louder. I know this is subjective stuff, but it is it me or Memorex?
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  #42  
Old 12-07-2016, 05:35 PM
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One of my multiple winter projects with the Bird is getting rid of the boat anchor intake manifold. It's got plugged journals and weighs in about 90 pds.

On will go a brand spanking new Edelbrock Performer with the added benefit of losing the draft tube and adding a PCV. AND a new carb replacing my 465 CFM Holley POS the PO had installed. Sticky floats, under powered, I'm looking forward to some additional bottom end grunt next year.

I don't know about you guys but the constant chugging of that draft tube in traffic on a hot summer day is not my idea of a cruise. More a 2 stroke outboard!
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  #43  
Old 12-07-2016, 06:13 PM
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You raise a couple insights...
Do you know that your exhaust crossover will be blocked, rendering your heat riser valve useless? If you're ok with that simply wire the heat riser open or replace it with a 'dummy' spacer.

As a matter of course, I always block the crossover. Your engine will take a little longer to heat but it's not a big thing... just as long as you are aware.

PCV is wonderful in an engine that is not tired and worn out. There comes a point when rings get too sloppy and blowby volumes become too much for PCV to handle. Draft tubes may belch smoke but they always work.

In a nut shell, I would do both of your improvements on an overhauled engine as part of the assembly. - Dave
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  #44  
Old 12-08-2016, 05:48 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
One of my multiple winter projects with the Bird is getting rid of the boat anchor intake manifold. It's got plugged journals and weighs in about 90 pds.

On will go a brand spanking new Edelbrock Performer with the added benefit of losing the draft tube and adding a PCV. AND a new carb replacing my 465 CFM Holley POS the PO had installed. Sticky floats, under powered, I'm looking forward to some additional bottom end grunt next year.

I don't know about you guys but the constant chugging of that draft tube in traffic on a hot summer day is not my idea of a cruise. More a 2 stroke outboard!
FAST makes a multiport EFI for the FE.
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  #45  
Old 12-09-2016, 08:28 AM
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In the 4 & 6 cyl MG/Austin/Triumph engines I work on which run at much higher rev's than the FE's but also have flat tappets I follow the same theory as this fellow who has proved his info with "real world" mileage.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of104a.htm

Run the ZDDP at break-in and possibly until the first oil change then change regularly with a good oil (with or without ZDDP) after that. At his writing of the article he had 75K on his engine. He has since retired and is crisscrossing the country working on folks cars just for fun. Probably double that mileage by now and he pulls a small trailer everywhere he goes so the little 4 cyl is always under load.



As for my first Harley it was a 1975 90cc enduro.............no I'm not kidding (wish I still had it).


Eric
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  #46  
Old 12-09-2016, 02:58 PM
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I think it's safe to say both sides of ZDDP usage has been presented. I like the article in the link. Those of us who believe one way or the other probably will not be persuaded. I suspected marketing was behind the push for ZDDP, and maybe his explanation of inferior materials suggest the co-incidence of engine failure and reduced ZDDP levels. His article does share my view for extra ZDDP during engine break-in.

That Harley is from the AMF Harley years. I myself bought a Honda 750 in 1975. Six back surgeries and age 64 have quelled my desire to buy that old classic. Funny, I won't buy a Japanese car, but the MCs were reliable and affordable.
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  #47  
Old 12-09-2016, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
FAST makes a multiport EFI for the FE.
Can't do EFI, I'd lose my collector status, can't even go high rise manifold.
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  #48  
Old 12-09-2016, 04:07 PM
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It's your car and your money to do with what you wish.
Believer? The first time it happens on your engine you WILL turn into a believer. The last set of FE heads I pulled off, I donated to my local sheeny-man. There wasn't anything about them that was worth salvaging. It was worth far more to me, to help the guy make a couple bucks in scrap iron. (I also gave him a set of leaf and coil springs I replaced.)

The last 351W cam I pulled had lobes like this:






Witness marks show, the lifters were not riding on the lobe centers any longer because the faces were 'dished-out'.









Believer? You betcha. This engine is from a 1970 LTD from Texas that was pulled at 70,000 miles but does it matter? The cam should have lasted two or three times longer. Cams should always outlast rings even though they don't get a steady bath of oil. The load on any cam is the same (spring pressure) whether the engine is under load or not.

Bottom line: Use oil that protects against wear. This engine was designed to run on oil that was API-MS designation, high in ZDDP, according to the Owner's Manual. It did alright in the 1970's and '80's, but not so well after that. - Dave
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