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  #1  
Old 10-13-2016, 11:09 PM
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Default '66 OEM relays

Does anyone have the pinout diagram for this style of relay, I'm trying to replace mine with two new Bosch style 5pins and can't get a reading on my multimeter between any two pins

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_th...plug-1966.html



I can figure white would be 86, the case would be 85, and brown would be 30, just want to figure out 87 & 87a?
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:48 PM
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Check here:
http://www.squarebirds.org/Electrica...gnalSequencer/

At the bottom are the Emergency Warning Relays.

John
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Old 10-14-2016, 01:33 AM
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My relays don't look like that, 1 is 4 wire the other is 3 that diagram looks like two 4 wire ("5pin") relays


These are my relays below the colours are: 4 wire ( white-red, blue, white-blue, green-white ) 3 wire ( white-red, blue, orange )





This is what I'm attempting to duplicate http://www.tbirdforum.com/forums/att...y-solution.pdf





3 wire relay harness built and temporaily grounded to test:



started the 4 wire harness before my daughter woke up from her nap:
white-red will go to "30" blue goes to "86" black is "85"

Last edited by Cwcb08 : 10-14-2016 at 02:38 AM.
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Old 10-14-2016, 02:46 AM
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ya know..., typing all that and proof reading and taking photos, im not sure it matters what colour wire goes from 87a on each relay terminal to green-white/white-blue on the plug does it? they both get power at the same time and will continue to do so when "30" receives power after my mod
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Old 10-14-2016, 09:09 AM
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I'm editing this post to conform with Cody's actual findings as he disassembled his OEM relays...

I'm happy you are using standard modern relays with plug-in sockets. They are only a few bucks per each set.

In your case, you need two normally open contacts, so two single pole aftermarket relays must be used to replace one OEM 4-wire relay and one more single pole aftermarket to replace the 3-wire OEM relay. That makes three new relays. Connect both (30) together to make a common. Then, use each 87 to connect to 694 and 363 respectively.
Of course you will need a good ground for your coil wires (85). Because these relays draw so little current, I would not use that funky sheet metal. Modern cars run a separate ground wire from the battery and so do I. Then, I connect it to everything along the way, clear to the tail light housings. You may find your fuel gauge will be more accurate, too.



Before leaping out the plane, I want you to prove your new relays work. Wire the new sockets/relays per my drawing. Without power to your new relay coils, see if the commons are isolated from the NC contacts, then ADD +12 power and see if commons and contacts all have the same continuity.

I never solder (and neither do OEMs). Instead, I use name brand (T&B, Buchannan, Ideal, Sta-Kon, Panduit, etc.) compression lugs (crimp connectors). For example, I get the yellow (#10AWG) size and cut the fork off. Then I put all the copper wires in the same barrel and crimp it HARD for the absolute best connection possible. If it needs black electrical tape for insulation, ok. If I only have two wires, I use the blue lugs. Let me know what you found. - Dave
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 10-14-2016 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I got this scheme from the Ford diagram:
like i said this diagram is not accurate to what is in my car
i have one of these and the other is the 4 wire we are talking about
Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I never solder (and neither do OEMs). Instead, I use name brand (T&B, Buchannon, Ideal, Sta-Kon, Panduit, etc.) compression lugs (crimp connectors). For example, I get the yellow (#10AWG) size and cut the fork off. Then I put all the copper wires in the same barrel and crimp it HARD for the absolute best connection possible. If it needs black electrical tape for insulation, ok. If I only have two wires, I use the blue lugs. Let me know what you found. - Dave
so you would do what is shown in the top photo but cut off the right hand side at the insulation and then tape the end?


the way i was looking at the relay i thought brown would be "30" because it was the biggest wire on the old one and appeared to always be hot in the car at the other end of the stock connector

Last edited by Cwcb08 : 10-14-2016 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwcb08 View Post
...so you would do what is shown in the top photo but cut off the right hand side at the insulation and then tape the end?


the way i was looking at the relay i thought brown would be "30" because it was the biggest wire on the old one and appeared to always be hot in the car at the other end of the stock connector
Yes, IF I wasn't using the stab. In other words, for a splice, I cut off the fork or ring. If you're going to USE the end then don't cut it off.

Your original relays are trash, right? Scratch the side and top so you know the orientation. Take the can apart and show us some pictures. That will tell for sure, what's what inside. I always go by the connectors because colors mean nothing when vendors offer relays and harnesses.

You may be able to ring the coil with your meter because no parts move inside. I believe the three-wire relay simply has one less contact. - Dave
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:29 AM
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:16 PM
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This 3-pin relay's contact is NORMALLY OPEN, not closed! The pictures are excellent. Let's see the 4-pin relay...
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:35 PM
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