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  #11  
Old 10-11-2016, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanj View Post
...Tell me why we're concerned with the integrity of those wires? If I could have used connectors, I wouldn't have taken the switch apart (as someone suggested) in the first place...
Seriously? The wires are set up to plug in using the provided bullet connectors so you DON'T need to splice. This must be a quick, positive thing for the guy on the assembly line.

Why didn't you use them?
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2016, 10:16 AM
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I just said I did use the connectors under the dash.

It would have saved me buying a turn signal switch if I could have removed the switch easily when I rebuilt the shifter column. Instead, someone on this forum suggested I disassemble the turn signal switch so that the shifter bowl could be removed. Eventually all the tiny springs were lost, and I pulled the switch out anyway replacing one wire at a time as I pulled the old wires out.

I do not recommend the turn signal switch disassembly because the tiny springs inside are nearly impossible to put back in place.

Too bad the switch didn't have its connectors near the shift bowl where all this extra work wouldn't have been necessary.
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2016, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnG View Post
It sounds like you have problems in the turn signal mechanism in the steering column.

If you continue to go in that direction, you have choices:

* get into the unit. It is a somewhat delicate assembly with small copper contacts and springs. Put an old white sheet on the floor under the steering area to make finding things easier. With a little caution you can simulate the operation and see if you can get the lights to work correctly. One corroded contact can be sufficient to wreack havoc

* replace the unit...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanj View Post
...It would have saved me buying a turn signal switch if I could have removed the switch easily when I rebuilt the shifter column. Instead, someone on this forum suggested I disassemble the turn signal switch so that the shifter bowl could be removed. Eventually all the tiny springs were lost, and I pulled the switch out anyway replacing one wire at a time as I pulled the old wires out...
Dean, it looks like you followed John's suggestion in the order he listed. Hey, I'm sorry your repair was a disaster but in fairness, John cautioned about this assembly being delicate with small springs, etc. I would only attempt this job on my electrical bench, not in the steering column.

I regard the old signal switch this way... If it's already broken, this job can only go in one direction. If by some miracle you get it fixed, now you have a good spare. So far, the only signal switch failure I have seen was due to an overcurrent condition, usually because lights were added.
Ultimately, you bought a new harness that works well and for that I am glad you're back in business. I often caution our members that adding extra lights to the turn signal system exceeds the current limitations of the switch and should only be done using three separate relays and a separate power wire, fused at the battery. Relays are cheap and they can safely add up to an extra 30-amps to your trailer circuit. Meaning, none of that extra current goes through your steering column, brake switch or headlight switch. The power it takes to energize a relay coil is LESS than a #57 dash light bulb. If anyone needs an electrical diagram, let me know.

Adding LEDs is the exception because they require very little power to run so they do not need relays. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 10-12-2016, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Johnston View Post
Same as Little Birds. Any one know when this changed??? Common for Little Bird owners to swap the power feed wire from the light switch to the ACC terminal of the Ignition switch and have back up lights whenever shifted into reverse.
Anyone know the wiring to do this, I always thought it odd to not have reverse lights during the day. I see on the wiring switch diagram the shared wire to the neutral switch is with the glovebox light and clock, so I'm assuming the BU lights are someplace else?
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  #15  
Old 10-12-2016, 08:38 PM
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The backup light is a black/red wire. It goes to the A terminal of the headlight switch. To do it correctly remove that wire from the headlight switch and run it to the ACC terminal of the ignition switch. You can also remove that wire from the neutral switch and run a wire from the neutral switch to the ignition switch. The wire you remove will be hot with the lights on so you will have to cap it off.

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  #16  
Old 10-13-2016, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanj View Post
...Your back-up lights only work when the parking lights or headlamps are on. Ford was saving a couple amps back then.
You may be confused with the front Parking Lights that extinguish when the headlights are on. The OEM Squarebird headlight switch 'A' terminal supplies power at all times. That is why the door lights, also fed from the 'A' terminal, do not depend on a key or headlights to be on. According to the 1960 wiring diagram, backup lights shine when the shifter is in reverse.

The 'A' terminal simply has a fuse between it and the Batt terminal. It's the upper fuse, clearly shown in this picture:

The yellow power wire is on the upper left and the green brake light wire is on the upper right ('A' terminal).
This is picture #12 but the entire switch can be viewed HERE.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Johnston View Post
Same as Little Birds. Any one know when this changed??? Common for Little Bird owners to swap the power feed wire from the light switch to the ACC terminal of the Ignition switch and have back up lights whenever shifted into reverse.
No need Joe, it already happens that way on Squarebirds from the factory.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sidewalkman View Post
...I always thought it odd to not have reverse lights during the day. I see on the wiring switch diagram the shared wire to the neutral switch is with the glovebox light and clock, so I'm assuming the BU lights are someplace else?
Squarebirds are wired so that backup lights shine whenever the shifter is in 'R' regardless of the time of day. No, clock power comes off the Batt terminal with an non-fused yellow wire that feeds the cigar lighter as well.

Reference the wiring diagram for the '60 T-bird. CLICK HERE
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 10-13-2016 at 10:06 AM.
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  #17  
Old 10-13-2016, 11:40 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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You are correct that the parking lights extinguish when the headlamps are on. However, I'm pretty sure about the back-up lights operation when the parking or headlamps are on.

I may have read it somewhere on this forum, and that's how my car works. No one has messed with that circuit-and I just tried it to verify. I read that's why Ford switched to all red lenses if you didn't order back-up lights. Customers with clear lenses were complaining that their back-up lights didn't work. It turned out they didn't have back-up lights.
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  #18  
Old 10-13-2016, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
No need Joe, it already happens that way on Squarebirds from the factory
Another change for 58 over 57! Almost like its a completely different car!!!
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  #19  
Old 10-13-2016, 03:17 PM
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I found this quote from John on 6-25-16:

It's not an on-off switch like you are thinking. When you put the car in reverse there's a switch under the steering column that activates the backup lights. It gets power from the headlight switch. That's assuming that you actually have them installed.

John

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  #20  
Old 10-13-2016, 05:53 PM
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I don't know if it's the same in earlier Thunderbirds but in my '66 I had to be careful when pulling the wires up (and back down) as some of the casting in the collar had edges sharp enough to shave slivers off the insulation on the wires.
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