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  #11  
Old 10-01-2016, 04:07 PM
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I would visit the hardward store and come back with a bag of washers and go from there. Just enough to take up the gap. Proabaly 1 or 2 might do.

Looking at your original photo, the cracks seem to be beginning at the lug hole. (or someone else might say that they end there, but I don't think so) suggesting alot of stress there.

I actually asked about the torque as there is a school of thought that suggests if lugs nuts are under torqued, there can be play which results in cracks. Not your problem!

do you still have 1 or 2 good rims to work with?
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2016, 04:24 PM
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Are The Holes Tapered(beveled) For The Acorn Nuts?
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  #13  
Old 10-01-2016, 07:41 PM
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Obviously there is some sort of mechanical/physical thing going on with the hub/rim however as with all things that have been chromed you have the risk of hydrogen embrittlement causing cracking, just something else to consider here.
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  #14  
Old 10-02-2016, 02:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scumdog View Post
...as with all things that have been chromed you have the risk of hydrogen embrittlement causing cracking, just something else to consider here.
Modern thinking includes using 'high-strength' alloys, then they reduce the thickness to save (unsprung) weight.

My observation is that the crack is from flexing away from the lug holes, then it spiders once it migrates to the lug nut holes. The widest portion of the crack indicates the most flexing.

The clean portion of the rotor bears witness that the lug nuts kept the wheel tight against it. I would use bluing ink on the lug holes to see if the nut cones contact the entire diameter of the holes. It appears they are centered properly but it's worth checking. Conical nuts must be torqued in steps and in a cross-pattern to ensure proper centering. We haven't used the center hub for wheel centering in years because FOUR nuts will do the job, save five (ala, the 1990 Mustang w/HO or 351W engine).

All wheels flex, or they would break from being too brittle (hard). Proper alloy and heat treat allows toughness and flexing, at least it has for many decades. No steel wheel should crack. Also check around the welds because failed welds could cause excessive flexing. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 10-02-2016, 09:14 AM
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Those wheels are defective and dangerous. Get your money back
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  #16  
Old 10-02-2016, 03:31 PM
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Kenn, they are tapered for the acorn nuts.

John, I was thinking you were on the right track, but I compared the way the wheel sits with the old Kelsey-Hayes repops I used to have and they are almost identical the way they sit on. I'm thinking that Dave and Tom are on the right track with thinner metal and chroming.

I googled for air-ride related issues and have not seen anything during a quick search on the internet. I have seen many-a-car with air-ride and have never heard of anyone else breaking a wheel like this. I even checked all of my components to ensure everything was still tight, and it is.

I sent an email over to the guys at Coker with all the info I could think of that might be pertinent

Phillip/Steve,
I have become greatly concerned for my wife and I's safety over these wheels cracking. I have created a folder in my Google drive with pictures rather than filling your inbox. I will try to give you as much info as possible here as well. I really like the wheels and get compliments on them, so I would like to get this figured out with you ASAP. I spent 2 weeks deciding on wheels when I originally purchased these several years ago, it drove my wife crazy, but the wheels make the car. It is finally to the point of driving, and I am now unable due to these failures. It is more than a little aggravating.

Pictures

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...m8?usp=sharing

1959 Thunderbird
The cracks ALWAYS are on the front wheels

I have Air-Ride suspension front and back
The air ride lifts the front-end approximately 4 inches from flat-out to ride height
The rear suspension is a 4-link with the stock rear end and drums

The front spindles and brakes are from a 1975-80 Ford Grenada

Alignment specs are set to a stock 1959 Thunderbird when the air-ride is at ride-height

When installing the wheels:
- I place the wheels onto the spindle
- Start each lug nut by hand
- I am using standard Acorn nuts that you see in the pictures; 1/2 x 20 size
- Tighten each lug-nut in a cross-star pattern until seated
- Let the car down on the jack until the wheel has enough weight on it not to move while tightening
- Tighten the lug-nuts to 100ft-lbs (I rechecked the torque on the other front wheel today)
- Let the car all the way down off the jack



- Matt Lewis
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  #17  
Old 10-02-2016, 09:13 PM
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Matt, all wheels carry un-sprung weight meaning, it doesn't matter what suspension you have. Tires and wheels happen before the benefit of suspension simply because they ride on the ground. Whether you have air bags, coil springs or torsion bars, all that happens above the spindles.

I cannot fault Granada spindles either. They safely carried millions of Ford and Lincoln cars. I use them on my '55 Customline.

Now, we're back to wheels and the tires they wear. Of course, front wheels turn which exerts side load that rear wheels never see. Again, properly designed and constructed wheels are well able and perfectly suitable for the stresses of turning while braking with pot holes in the mix.

Wheels are a major safety concern and yours would be cause for any of the car manufacturers to announce a recall. I think you and Coker are very fortunate that nobody is seriously injured by these wheels regardless of how good they look. - Dave

EDIT: Looking at your pictures, the last one (20161002_123549.jpg) shows where the flexing happens. It's like bending a piece of steel back and forth, the metal 'work hardens' then it cracks and breaks. Also I noticed, these wheels have long welds on the back side. They may have been heat treated to relieve the weld stress. An improper heat treat will ruin a good steel wheel.
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 10-02-2016 at 09:31 PM.
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  #18  
Old 10-02-2016, 09:18 PM
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Matt, I have Coker's myself- the wire wheels. Granted I've only had them 6 months but no cracking. I'm going to keep a close eye on them. Keep us advised on how Coker responds.
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  #19  
Old 10-02-2016, 10:31 PM
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Dave, I agree with you 100%. I was just trying to lay out the facts for Coker. That way I hopefully don't have to go through the back and forth of customer service reps going through their flowchart of standard questions.

Thanks for the input though. Like I said, I've never heard of this before, I don't think I'm good enough to come up with a new way to break wheels that no one has thought of before!
It is good to hear that I'm not crazy.
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  #20  
Old 10-03-2016, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c4clewis View Post
...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7R...ew?usp=sharing

Coker took the last one back after I told the rep this was the second one to do it, and they have not heard of any problems...
I posed the question to Coker over the weekend and this is the response I got today. It says they still have no record of failure. You should contact them immediately.
Attached Images
File Type: png CokerSmoothieWheels.png (61.8 KB, 81 views)
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