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  #11  
Old 09-25-2016, 10:00 AM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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Been there and done that (often)! Still have a couple of pieces of soap in the tool boxes for that quick temporary fix.

Does that make me an "old timer"?
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  #12  
Old 09-25-2016, 10:29 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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Dave, you might be correct about load because things changed again last night.

I drove her about 6 miles while still light outside and no squeal. After parking and shutting down, I started her back up to move to different parking spot and the squealing began, much to my surprise. After sitting for 2-3 hours, I started her up again and she never stopped squealing until I shut her down in the garage. Of course the lights and heater were on which means there was a good draw.

I'm going to zone in the alternator because it I installed that a couple months ago and the problem started shortly and slowly after that. Also, there's no noise at freeway speeds when the charging is optimum. It makes sense and fits your scenario.
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  #13  
Old 09-25-2016, 10:36 AM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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While you are at it, check ALL the belts for cracks and just as important, if the sides (gripping surface) are shiny or not. IF shiny, replace them. I would do them all at this time since they don't cost a lot and you have the tools out and working right there.
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  #14  
Old 09-25-2016, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanj View Post
...Also, there's no noise at freeway speeds when the charging is optimum. It makes sense and fits your scenario.
Depending on the battery's ability to store (I'm assuming it has no shorted cells), charging may be complete by the time you get to the freeway.

We buy alternators based on their charging rate AT IDLE SPEED, not because we need 70 or 100 amps. The more output, the harder it is to turn. What's worse is, some higher output alt's use the same pulley diameter as a 30-amp generator.

I understand that smaller pulleys make the alt run faster but small pulleys have very little belt surface area. To remedy, either use a larger diameter pulley because it's easier to turn (a longer lever) AND it has more belt surface area OR use a double-groove pulley.

Alternators don't 'spread out' the charge. They give all they can until the regulator tames down the charge (when the battery is full). Consequently, the most charge comes when your engine is starting up from idle speed, like at a light. This is the most likely time for belt squeal. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 09-26-2016, 10:18 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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Dave, I bought Larry's Thunderbird alternator conversion kit back on May 31st. It contained the brackets and a "65 amp" Delco 10si alternator. I assume it's a 10si from descriptions.

Assuming Larry's quotes their express warranty and will not honor the implied warranty that it wasn't fit for its purpose, would I purchase a 63 amp Delco 10si and transfer the pulley? And since you recommended a double grove pulley, could I transfer the old pulley from the generator? I have fused this at 100 amps.
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  #16  
Old 09-26-2016, 10:29 AM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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The kit you purchased is basically the same one I put on my '59 when I converted to an alternator. The brackets are not strong enough to support the load. Even after I reinforced them my 70 amp 10si alternator would squeal whenever I put the top up and down. There is too much flex on the bracket to keep the belt at the correct tension.

John
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  #17  
Old 09-26-2016, 11:19 AM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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John, I glad I'm not getting paid to diagnose this problem. I sprayed water on the belt (which was done before) and now it stops squealing a few seconds which points to the belt? Or is that just making the alternator turn easier?

If these brackets aren't strong enough, why didn't this squeal constant from the start as it does now? Did the belt weaken? If reinforcing the brackets isn't the answer, such as like bolting a cross bracket between the two brackets, what is the permanent solution?

I'm going to try a new belt for starters.
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  #18  
Old 09-26-2016, 11:40 AM
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I tried putting a third bracket in but it didn't help. If I put a crowbar between the alternator and the block I could move it pretty easy. There's just too much play in the long bolt and it's way too thin. Probably welding it would help but the design is much too flimsy compared to the original generator mounting.

John
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  #19  
Old 09-26-2016, 02:49 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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I changed the alternator belt (Gates) and it's definitely the alternator. All that work to be sure.

Larry's will warranty, but only if I send this one back first. They wouldn't listen to reason. I'm doing it myself, but what if I brought it to a shop? It is a 3 o'clock set-up if anyone wants to know.

Last edited by Deanj : 09-26-2016 at 03:03 PM.
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  #20  
Old 09-26-2016, 07:48 PM
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Why send it back? Doesn't it work ok? With simple fabrication, just about any alternator will mount.

You only need three points; two in the front and one in the rear. If your 10SI doesn't have convenient mounting holes, make a steel 'C' to wrap half way around the alt, then you can place your own holes wherever you want.

Yes, GM and Ford alternators and generators can swap pulleys. I simply got a larger diameter pulley for mine.

When you pour water on rubber IT SLIPS MORE. That's why you didn't hear the squeal.

There's nothing wrong with using a 10SI as long as it's not one of those 1-wire alternators. - Dave
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