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  #11  
Old 01-21-2017, 01:10 PM
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If you jumped the solenoid and the starter didn't turn then you either have a bad starter, a bad starter cable or a bad ground from the battery to the engine block. No reason to spend more money than you have to. Go with the Rock Auto starter. The rebuilt one says it comes with the drive. I don't believe the new one does so unless you want to reuse your old one I would go with the rebuilt starter.

John
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  #12  
Old 01-21-2017, 03:04 PM
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I think we did try to jump across the solenoid, but it was several months ago so I don't remember for sure.

I agree, but I just wanted to see if anyone had any issue with the Rockauto part.
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  #13  
Old 01-21-2017, 04:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
If you jumped the solenoid and the starter didn't turn then you either have a bad starter, a bad starter cable or a bad ground from the battery to the engine block. No reason to spend more money than you have to...
John nailed it.
Before you throw parts at this, prove John's suggestions first. They cost nothing to try.

If your battery and ground wires are good, try jumping from + to the starter wire. If nothing still, pull the starter motor. There is an inspection plate held by one screw, covering the brush holders. Take a look.

How would you like to save over a hundred bucks and ensure reliable starts?
Brushes cost about eight bucks but everyone insists on waiting for catastrophic failure and a tow truck before addressing the starter motor. The same holds true for OEM generators. "...but the starter motor is hard to remove!" Yeah but when it goes, you will remove it anyway.

Classic cars require far more scheduled maintenance (than modern cars). When neglected, expect to pay dearly later on. Look, a new starter should last thousands of starts. A daily driver for work starts twice/day for years (let's say four) 350-days X 2-starts X 4-yrs =2,800 starts. (Time to spend US$8 on brushes and change them at your leisure time.) - Dave
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  #14  
Old 01-21-2017, 04:27 PM
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Just as a side note, I found these on Ebay a while back:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STARTER-...NYQckO&vxp=mtr
NEW STARTER FOR $87, NO SHIPPING. (NOT REBUILT)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Starter-...3D371207402375
NEW STARTER WITH DRIVE. $103, NO SHIPPING.
Just thought I would give you these options.
I hate to get stuck or towed with my classic.
Nyles
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2017, 04:49 PM
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1. Neutral safety switch - poor adjustment ) worn contacts
2. Volt drop to the start solenoid from the key switch / neutral switch
3. Check voltage across the 2 small terminals on the solenoid, should be over battery voltage, unless car is cranking, in which case it will be cranking voltage 9.6 volts or higher.
4. Check voltage at the starter motor. If you can hear the starter motor solenoid clicking when the key is turned, check voltage at the starter motor. If you have little/no voltage and the solenoid is clicking the contacts in the solenoid are worn. If you have full voltage at the starter, your starter is out of brushes or open circuit.

Don't overlook the obvious things either. Loose or dirty battery terminals, earth cable loose connection onto body/block. Voltage in the battery should be @12.6v you can get faulty batteries.

Good luck!
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:30 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions, if I can get myself into the garage before spring I'll give them a try.

As far as replacing the brushes, since the Rockauto rebuilt starter is only $30 after the core charge, it doesn't seem worth it. I'll jsut replace it, assuming that's what it is.
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  #17  
Old 01-24-2017, 07:55 AM
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Add a Ground also. One from the engine to the Firewall.
Old grounds get corroded and wont make a good contact.
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2017, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgs View Post
Thanks for the suggestions, if I can get myself into the garage before spring I'll give them a try.

As far as replacing the brushes, since the Rockauto rebuilt starter is only $30 after the core charge, it doesn't seem worth it. I'll jsut replace it, assuming that's what it is.
I'd be careful with bottom dollar rebuilt parts,
unless it is really easy to swap out.
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2017, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dgs View Post
...As far as replacing the brushes, since the Rockauto rebuilt starter is only $30 after the core charge, it doesn't seem worth it. I'll jsut replace it, assuming that's what it is.
Doug, be mindful that rebuild shops only guarantee their product for a short time.

Starter brushes, even when new, are short. So, as long as used brushes have 'some' life left, rebuild shops will save themselves eight bucks and re-use old brushes. Starter motor brushes are NOT carbon. They are carbon-impregnated bronze; short enough to keep resistance low, the carbon acts as a commutator lubricant and the bronze will hold up under high heat from high current.

When you receive your starter motor, open the inspection plate and LOOK. Pull up on the brushes' pigtails with a hook:



Feel how free they travel in the holders and notice how long each one is. OR, you can shake dice and simply trust that $30 will work well past the warranty period. Save your receipt and Good luck. - Dave
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2017, 09:37 PM
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At Rock Auto the same 12 month warranty applies to the rebuilt and the new. I suspect no one else has a longer warranty. Of course, that doesn't mean that I want to swap it out twice.
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