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  #11  
Old 06-10-2016, 11:07 PM
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thanks John
because of the vibration, the line will crack at the fitting?.
i'm guessing
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2016, 11:30 PM
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Yes, it will eventually loosen or crack. That's why you have rubber radiator and heater hoses. Anytime you go from something stationary like the car body to the engine there needs to be flexibility.

John
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2016, 03:30 PM
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I don't get much time to work on the car so progress moves slowly but surely.
I have replaced the fuel tank, ran all new fuel line, ran all new brake lines, and replaced the tranny seal. This weekend I plan to get the exhaust all bolted up and patched, fill up the fluids (and tighten down any leaks), and take it off the jack stands to see if it will move under it's own power. Sort of exciting for me as this will be the next big step in a plan of several steps.

Also a tip, when I was running the fuel line, I wanted hard line from the pump to the carb but had a ******* time finding the right adapter to go from my carb (Edelbrock 1405) to the 5/16 steel line. I finally found it with help from my local Napa. He didn't have the part, but I was able to order it online. I used a Rochester Carter 5/8-20 Brass Fuel Inlet Fitting 5/16" Inverted Flare. Got it from Ebay for $12 and it does exactly what I wanted.

That's it for now. Talk to you all later.
Dan.
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2016, 08:02 PM
Dementedan Dementedan is offline
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This weekend I put gas in the new tank to run through the new fuel lines, new fuel pump, and new carb. The car ran, albeit a bit rough, but timing will be later.
The brake line fittings are all tightened up, brakes bled, now have brakes again.
Before taking the car off the jack stands, put the car in gear and had the rear tires rotating under its own power for the first time. All drive gears and reverse are working. The speedo even worked. Unfortunately the tranny still leaks. It's good to see stuff working, but terrible to have to take it back apart to figure out what's wrong with this tranny leak. Someone had been in this tranny before me as everything, including the torque converter was all clean but they beat up the front seal when they installed it, causing it to leak. So I thought I just had to replace that seal. Apparently not since it's still leaking. I'll pull it out and see I suppose. I'll be sure to inspect the shaft for any roughness and I'll mic the dimensions to be sure that's all right as well since I don't know what the last people did on this car. If anyone else has a suggestion, please share. If I can't figure it out and if a tranny shop wants any more than $200 to fix, I may be finding a C6 with overdrive.
The adventure continues.
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2016, 08:16 PM
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Did you replace the front pump o-ring or just the front seal. Often that o-ring will leak.

John
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  #16  
Old 12-20-2016, 12:16 AM
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Most of the cost involves removal and replacement of your transmission. If you can get the trans out and bring it to a shop, costs are VERY cheap for 'bench work'.

Otherwise, the guy puts your car up in the air, removes exhaust, driveshaft and trans, then he can't afford to tie up the hoist while your trans is fixed so he lowers the car and pushes it into a parking space.

Finally when ready, he has to push the car back in, hoist it and assemble everything. One man isn't doing this alone. At least two or three are required.

If you have the trans out and on the bench, it only makes sense to go through the whole trans, replacing ALL seals and 'O' rings while inspecting all bearings and bushings. A rebuild kit costs $100 (minus bands, steels and fibre clutch plates). So basically, you are allocating a hundred bucks to do the bench work.

The last COM I did had clutch plates that looked BETTER than the aftermarket so I re-used the originals. It still runs like a watch. - Dave
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