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  #31  
Old 06-22-2016, 07:50 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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Default Alternator conversion complete

The alternator conversion is complete. Thank you all for your help, especially Jopizz. This leads to: Can you buy a voltmeter to replace the under dash aftermarket ammeter gauge separately?

First, my friend the retired Honda mechanic said, 'when are we going to do this?' Good thing he did most of the tough work because everything you said about this conversion was true: run 8g wire fused with 80-100 amp in line fuse from power to solenoid, alternator red wire to solenoid, alternator white wire to old yellow field wire, tape up other two wires, and disable voltage regulator. Finish it off with wire covering and it looks professional.

There were a few unexpected issues to overcome. Note that the fan and it's pulley must come off to get the bottom bracket off. The bolt on the bottom bracket will not clear the pulley. The pulley is pressed on about a half inch and pry it gently off with a screwdriver and hammer. Replace it by drawing it on with it's bolts. This doubles the conversion time.

At first I thought a problem since my ammeter was registering a discharge. A check found that the battery maintained over 12.5 volts with A/C on high, bright lights, radio, and brake lights on, and 14.5 v under normal load. I would like that voltmeter.

The car certainly seems more "alive" when stopped, foot on brake with turn signals on.
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  #32  
Old 06-22-2016, 08:02 PM
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Glad to see that everything worked out. The first time for everything is always a little scary. Next time you do it it will be a breeze. You can find under dash voltmeters at your local auto store. Here's one at Autozone. They come in all different prices.

http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-g...?checkfit=true

John
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  #33  
Old 06-24-2016, 03:42 AM
60 T-Bird 60 T-Bird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
If your generator has a double sheave pulley, it transfers straight over to your alternator. Unbolt both and swap. Make sure you maintain the little spacer that comes on modern alternators. It looks like a small ring but it prevents the pulley from scraping against the case. - Dave
I wish I had known that. I just bout a C.R.A.P. Gen to Alt kit and put my generator on ebay and sold it. So don't ya know, I installed the new Tuff Stuff alternator tonight and saw it was around 3/4" out of alignment (short) with the crank pulley.
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  #34  
Old 06-24-2016, 10:59 AM
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I considered transferring the pulley from the generator to the alternator, but declined the idea. Whoever thought through the package at Larry's had to have considered alignment. My single belt set up aligns with the inner-most groove on the pulley.
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  #35  
Old 06-24-2016, 02:06 PM
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Everyone wants a 'bolt-on' solution that fits perfectly.
Alternators didn't exist in Squarebird days. To make matters more complicated, there is not a 'standard' alternator because:
  • Not everyone wants to run an electric fan,
  • Alternators come in many different output amperage and mounting configurations,
  • Some folks adhere to the notion that a one-wire is what they want because it has fewer wires.

I realize not everyone has the ability or means to fabricate a simple bracket, but that is all it takes. The parts are simple lengths of pipe and different bolt lengths. An adjusting arm can be purchased as a heim joint in a threaded sleeve (sold at speedwaymotors.com).

Martin, sorry you let your pulley go but I posted that nearly a month ago on the 26th of May. If your setup is 3/4" out of adjustment, you may only need different length spacers and bolts. You are a Machinist, so shims and spacers should be a cinch.

Depending on the new generator's output, a small belt area can produce a squealing problem. More output requires more HP on the pulley. More belts or a larger diameter pulley will solve this problem. - Dave
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  #36  
Old 06-24-2016, 04:28 PM
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I finished off the project today by returning the main yellow battery wire to the engine compartment. The previous owner connected it to an ammeter (combo oil pressure gauge). It's irrelevant, wasn't fused, and I considered it a hazard. Since that source of 12v power was gone, I connected the fused windshield washer switch to the ignition as once suggested.

As much as I like cars almost completely stock, choosing an electronic ignition, electric wipers and washers, electric fuel pump, and alternator seem to me the minimum upgrades needed.
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  #37  
Old 06-24-2016, 08:57 PM
60 T-Bird 60 T-Bird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Everyone wants a 'bolt-on' solution that fits perfectly.

Martin, sorry you let your pulley go but I posted that nearly a month ago on the 26th of May. If your setup is 3/4" out of adjustment, you may only need different length spacers and bolts. You are a Machinist, so shims and spacers should be a cinch.
Ha ha...yes Dave. I could do that or just buy a double pulley from Summit via Tuff Stuff for $16. Guess which way I went.
Dave, Deanj and calling Carl has been a godsend putting Angelina back together again. It is the typical story of 2 steps forward and one back. This particular thread has been of great use for my future wiring and seeing what to do with existing wiring.
My latest folly is my power steering pump pulley not lining up. I had a dead 430 in the car and now a 1961, t-bird 390. It's been so long of a project, I don't remember if the pump, bracket or pulley are 390 or 430. I have a feeling a mixture. But I get mad, wait a few hours and resolve the problem.
As far as things not being bolt on...I have the mind to make a kit, alternator, bracket and wire loom included that just bots up. The custom one I bought had a few hassles with and the guy charged good money for it. Seems as these cars age and generators at $400 a pop, a conversion would be the way to go...and yes, I still have to get my brass window rollers going. Finding butterfly clips are the hold up.
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  #38  
Old 06-24-2016, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60 T-Bird View Post
...I have the mind to make a kit, alternator, bracket and wire loom included that just bots up. The custom one I bought had a few hassles with and the guy charged good money for it. Seems as these cars age and generators at $400 a pop, a conversion would be the way to go...and yes, I still have to get my brass window rollers going. Finding butterfly clips are the hold up.
130 amp alternators don't cost a lot on eBay. With a few hardware pieces the 'kit' comes together nicely.

Don't beat yourself up over window roller parts that can be reused from the original pieces. My experience is, the washers and clips do not wear. They work nicely on new brass rollers. - Dave
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  #39  
Old 06-25-2016, 12:56 PM
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I had the same issue with a new PS pump. Measure it against the old one and see how much in washers you need to bring it into line. I found 3 fat washers of identical nature in a can of washers-bolts-pieces-parts my dad started 70 years ago.
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  #40  
Old 06-25-2016, 01:51 PM
60 T-Bird 60 T-Bird is offline
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My situation is a little different. Unfortunately I have not signed up yearly yet to post pictures but i will next week and start another thread regarding pulley line ups.
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