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  #11  
Old 05-15-2016, 08:01 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
...You have made changes to the valve train 'stack' so you must measure. So many of us have changed cams, rocker arm ratios, pistons, heads, (roller) lifters, etc. So, measuring piston-to-valve clearance and pushrod length must be done...
Mike, what are your actual measurements?

"On paper" means very little when disaster strikes. You want to KNOW before you run your engine. The only way I know to determine precision tolerances is to measure. - Dave
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  #12  
Old 05-16-2016, 12:45 AM
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...I have never seen a loose rocker shaft plug either, whether in the Y block motors and early Mopar hemi with two shafts each side with press in plugs and no cotter key...
I chuckled to myself as I read this because Y-Block rocker shafts are open to atmosphere. They have a cotter pin but not for the purpose of holding the plug back.

BTW, let me know if you need instructions on how to measure your clearances. I assume your engine is on a stand. - Dave
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2016, 01:12 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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May have the TBird covers chromed and put those on after motor is back in car, but wouldn't be too upset if I have to keep the aftermarket covers on it either (Purty..)
The OEM covers are crap. There is no way to torque to spec without deforming them. Even with "spreaders". So you have to use RTV on both sides of the gasket and then they are basically glued on, making inspection burdensome.

Quote:
Had this block decked about .020 but being I am using the thick .040 composition head gasket instead of the thin steel factory gasket it had at about .018 thickness, those two changes should mostly offset one another.
Check your compression ratio with the thick head gasket. It has a large effect on it.

Quote:

Test fit the ancient F427,intake with no gaskets and it shows light all the way through one one side, but not the other. Figure I just have it a little off center with no gaskets in there.

All the angles look right on intake ends, but wondering if the stock FelPro intake side gaskets will be thick enough? And end cork gaskets almost seem like they would be too thick, so silicone it is..
You said the block was decked, but was it decked square? My 390 block was not square from the factory, so squaring it was part of the build. My intake clearance on the front and rear seals is now consistent. Many have suggested throwing out the cork front and rear seals and using a thick bead of RTV. I have found that Felpro 1247, with peel and press on the bottom of the cork, seals well by trimming the ends where they mate with the port gaskets and applying a blob of black RTV at the corners, followed by a thin bead on top of the cork.
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2016, 01:23 PM
pbf777 pbf777 is offline
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Rockauto.com sells Sealed Power rocker shafts (RS621) for under $30/each, NOT $180. - I still can't get over $180 for shafts that cost $60. - Dave[/quote]

Please, they're not the same thing, not at all.

These $180.00 shafts will servive the use of a mechanical roller camshaft and it's respective loads @ speeds of 8000+ R.P.M.s.; unlike those $60.00 units, which you don't need to worry about clearances, galling, etc., as they won't even last that long before they snap! - Believe me.

"You-Get-What-You-Pay-For"

Do you need them? I don't think that's for me to decide, but you will get better service from them, even in less racy (maybe yours?) environments, as I have seen many a broken shaft in even relatively stock applications; and is it really that much more money, really.

We have moved away from some of the Fel-Pro, Print-O-Seal, gasket line due to witnessing failures (some not due to lack of quality, but, they must be compatible for the environment, including installer variables). In this application, I prefer a denser material with less tendency to compress and/or creep under load, requiring less retorquing (post initial build retorque processes) down the road, per se.

If you have a 6" caliper (yes, they make bigger/longer ones), just Dykem the push rod half-way up, set your caliper to say 4", measure from one end, mark the shaft, then measure from the other end to your mark, add. With effort, you can be very accurate; more so than the manufacturer I dare say.

Note that different push rod suppliers measure them differently, concerning ball-ends dimension; be sure everyone's on the same page here.

And, also check both your lifter cup and rocker arm cup or ball as to their diameter/radius as not all may be what you anticipated, and mixing dimensional fitment doesn't work well. Scott.
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  #15  
Old 05-17-2016, 03:14 PM
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[quote=Brushwolf;101053]Not sure what this is. Never seen a rear breather for FE.

http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/...breather-tube/

These were intended for the original Cobra cars & others for Ford racing endeavors as they had "Pent-Roof" or "Bald" valve covers w/ no provisions for breathers. Yes, they install in the rear of the intake (w/ a "basket" mesh filter).

The problem with not having breathers in each valve cover is that condensation (and other by-products of combustion) tends to rise and accumulate here, and without evacuation ads in sludge accumulation.

Also, other variables in your measurements would include the base circle of the after-market camshaft & difference in geometry of the different rocker arms. So, be sure to physically measure for adequate clearance. Scott.
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