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  #11  
Old 04-20-2016, 04:00 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
Look in the technical resource library. http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=15295

There's a long write-up of a booster/ master/ disc brake conversion. Plan your booster/ master for this as you will likely want disc brakes in front at some time.

For a dual master/ 4 wheel drum conversion, you don't need a proportioning valve. However you will need one if you move up to discs. They are not that expensive, you'll need some kind of manifold anyway, and since you are installing new lines it's easier to put one in now then later. Get an adjustable one, and has a fitting for your brake light switch. All the proportioning valve does is reduce pressure to the rear brakes, so you can set it to 100% if you have drums at all corners.
I've been doing some reading of other posts, and think I'm close to understanding what I need, but will read through that link to be sure. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
I just converted to front discs myself; the kit was $375.
What kit did you use? That price seems familiar -- Auto City Classic on eBay, I believe.
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  #12  
Old 04-20-2016, 04:19 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Originally Posted by Ickaber View Post
What kit did you use? That price seems familiar -- Auto City Classic on eBay, I believe.
Nope, it was tomsclassic. He's got the kit without booster and master cylinder for $375, or with them for $600. It seems I can get my own booster and M/C for a lot less than $225.

I'd love to know if that's the kit you used, as I've been eyeing that one for a while myself.
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  #13  
Old 04-20-2016, 06:05 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ickaber View Post
Nope, it was tomsclassic. He's got the kit without booster and master cylinder for $375, or with them for $600. It seems I can get my own booster and M/C for a lot less than $225.

I'd love to know if that's the kit you used, as I've been eyeing that one for a while myself.
I used Toms Classic, from his ebay store. $225 is a bargain for a booster and M/C.
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2016, 06:13 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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By the way I sold my old (original, never rebuilt, but working) booster on ebay for $73. I used a generic slimline booster because I had a clearance issue with my Offenhauser valve covers, so the core was of no value to me. Evidently it was valuable to others.
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2016, 06:29 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Well, maybe not a bargain, but close to it. Looking back, I paid $175, but had to do some fabrication, and it has a 1-1/8" piston. You should get a master with a 1".
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  #16  
Old 04-20-2016, 07:44 PM
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When all four wheel cylinders ran off of one distribution block, they equalized by themselves.

A common dual piston M/C splits the system so you need a combination proportioning valve to equalize both systems regardless of drum/drum, disk/drum or disk/disk. The valve also meters, to apply the rear brakes first, then the front. If a line ruptures, the spool shuts off the faulty system so you don't run out of brake fluid. The valve also energizes a warning light.

Pirate Jack has good prices on brake components. - Dave
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  #17  
Old 05-30-2016, 12:51 PM
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I got my 9 inch booster from Pirate Jack for 80 bux and free shipping. With minor modifications to push rod connector I was able to use original booster bracket making the whole master cylinder brake booster assembly a bolt on setup.
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File Type: jpg 2016-05-22 17.34.33.jpg (379.5 KB, 73 views)
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  #18  
Old 05-30-2016, 01:36 PM
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Good job and good price, Tony. A brand new booster with warranty for $90 is a good deal and I love your fabrication. It looks simple and clean.

If your brake lines are original, I hope you change them. Brake fluid is always clear when new. It also rarely ever gets changed so that brownish-red color in the reservoir comes from fifty years of rust INSIDE your brake lines, where you can not see the erosion. Now that you have a new master and booster, proper high brake pressure is restored to 'new' so your steel and rubber lines must be up to the task.

Replacing brake lines is easier done than explained. Once you do your first line the rest go a lot easier. Start on the rear axle where the lines are short and straight. Use the old lines to practice your bending skills. - Dave
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  #19  
Old 05-09-2017, 05:59 PM
Ickaber Ickaber is offline
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Default Your opinion

I'm getting ready to start ordering parts to convert my '63 to disc brakes. I'd like to get some opinions on ordering the Scarebird kit ($320) versus Tom's Classic kit on eBay, either with booster and MC ($599) or without booster and MC ($375).

I know Yadkin used the Tom's classic, and that one seems to be a more complete kit, for not significantly more money. But, I've seen lots of references to Scarebirds over the years, so am wondering if there is something inherently desireable about them. (Other than that he is somewhat local to me.)

I will be needing a new booster and MC, as well, in case that sways anyone's opinion. I'm open to opinion on anything from functionality to appearance or anything in between.

Thanks.
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  #20  
Old 05-09-2017, 06:18 PM
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According to the Scarebirds description you can use your standard 14" rims. I wasn't aware of that. If it is true then that can save you some money not having to buy new rims which you will need according to Tom's. Also the Scarebirds kit uses standard off the shelf parts. If Tom's goes out of business do you really know what brake pads or calipers and rotors to buy? Dollar for dollar it appears that Tom's kit is a better buy but there are other things to consider. I like being able to go to my local store and get parts rather than having to depend on Tom's to be around five years from now.

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