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  #21  
Old 03-22-2016, 07:16 PM
jhenry jhenry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
I'll be buying an extra lottery ticket in hopes of winning so that if the car goes up for sale you'll have a buyer very quickly -
Ha! Good luck and let me know if you win!!!
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  #22  
Old 03-30-2016, 12:58 PM
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Interior tear down is into its second week. The power windows are out and I'm into the dash and wiring. The car is slowly revealing its secrets! There were numerous wiring modifications made over the years, including the addition of some extra under dash courtesy lights. Also, this car had an aftermarket trailer hitch and some taillight wiring splices. All this will have to be removed and the wiring restored to its original state.
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  #23  
Old 04-01-2016, 01:56 AM
jhenry jhenry is offline
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I'm down to the dash panel! Any clue as to how it comes out? The shop manual does not mention the location of the dash to cowl mounting bolts and I have yet to locate them!
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  #24  
Old 04-01-2016, 02:12 AM
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Default 1960 Convertible Restoration

Jerry, look in the Technical Resource Library (TRL), the link to which is always part of my and John ~ jopizz's signature element. You will find information there regarding the Squarebirds dashpads...
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  #25  
Old 04-01-2016, 02:56 AM
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Found it Ray! Thanks for the heads-up. It's amazing the amount of useful info contained in the library!
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  #26  
Old 04-01-2016, 03:41 AM
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Default 1960 Convertible Restoration

Great! Yes, thanks to our fellow Forum users, we have been able to develop a pretty extensive TRL! I hope it will help you with the job at hand.
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  #27  
Old 04-02-2016, 11:03 PM
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Success! It took a while to locate the screws holding the dash to the cowl. There was excess vinyl along the forward edge of the dash pad that concealed the screws located below the windshield gasket. Once the vinyl was trimmed back to gain access to them the final dash removal went pretty smoothly.

I had a chance to do a compression test on the engine today. Most cylinders read in the 105 to 115 range which seemed pretty low but uniform. Perhaps this had something to do with the engine not being warmed up enough? It was very cold here today and the engine was only run about 10-15 minutes before the test. (The gas tank ran dry!) The number 8 cylinder did read extremely low at 85 but did come up to 120 after shooting some oil down the cylinder. Looks like at least a set of rings is in her future. Any thoughts?
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  #28  
Old 04-03-2016, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhenry View Post
...Most cylinders read in the 105 to 115 range which seemed pretty low but uniform... ...The number 8 cylinder did read extremely low at 85 but did come up to 120 after shooting some oil down the cylinder...
I used to believe I could re-ring and be done with it. If the cylinder walls are straight, without 'bell-shaped' wear at the top, then a re-ring might work. This only happens with a new-ish block. New rings would flex in that bell, compromising the seal, widening the bell and eventually breaking the ring. In short, the cylinder needs to be true, with a proper crosshatch pattern in both directions.

As with every tired engine, I suggest you shop for a good engine machine shop for your block. Dave
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  #29  
Old 04-03-2016, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I used to believe I could re-ring and be done with it. If the cylinder walls are straight, without 'bell-shaped' wear at the top, then a re-ring might work. This only happens with a new-ish block. New rings would flex in that bell, compromising the seal, widening the bell and eventually breaking the ring. In short, the cylinder needs to be true, with a proper crosshatch pattern in both directions.

As with every tired engine, I suggest you shop for a good engine machine shop for your block. Dave
Good point Dave!
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  #30  
Old 04-06-2016, 12:57 AM
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With the interior pretty much gutted, its time to tackle the trunk and top mechanism. Things have gone pretty smoothly so far. I've scheduled the car to be in the body shop during the last week of April, so there is a lot of work to be done in the next 3 weeks. I have kept enough wiring in place so the car can be started and driven onto the lift for engine and tranny removal which should begin within the next 2 weeks.
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