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  #21  
Old 12-26-2015, 03:18 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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My car was assembled Jan 20, 1960. I speculated the filter might be an issue when the fluid drained out. Perhaps dirt settled into the filter when the reservoir emptied. I'll have to see if it has a filter. Does the reservoir top lift off?
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  #22  
Old 12-26-2015, 03:35 PM
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There's either a long bolt that you have to remove or there's a wing nut. Either way the top should come off. Of course having the compressor in the way doesn't help. You'll probably have to remove the belt and push it all the way down.

John
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  #23  
Old 12-26-2015, 03:38 PM
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Here's the diagram showing the pump with the filter.

John
Attached Images
File Type: jpg '60 ps pump.jpg (74.6 KB, 32 views)
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  #24  
Old 12-26-2015, 04:24 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Something else I have tried in the past is turning the wheel full stop to stop and keeping a little pressure on the system for a very short duration when you are up against the stop. It sounds like you did this and I thought it helped, but now the noise seems to be back. Suggests you are still getting air into the system. One thing I found recommended, is to raise the front of the car and get the weight off of the front tires and then do the full stop to stop turning several times. I've done this several times with various cars and have had good success. May be worth a try as it is a simple one.
Nyles
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  #25  
Old 12-26-2015, 05:06 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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Checked the reservoir and yes we have no filter. The fluid was very dirty and so I added clean fluid to the tank I turkey basted out. I purged the air again by turning the wheels back and forth. The sawing zzzzzzzz noise remains, but I noticed it disappears when turning the wheel and keeping some tension on the system. Otherwise the position of the steering doesn't matter. The steering assist seems fine except for the noise. I really hate to remove and return a good control valve if it isn't bad. Am I in denial?
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  #26  
Old 12-26-2015, 05:13 PM
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I would check and make sure that both rubber hoses, the pressure hose and the return hose don't have any kinks in them. If they are fine then drive the car if you can. See if the steering is good and if the noise goes away when the fluid gets hot.

John
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  #27  
Old 12-26-2015, 05:28 PM
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Thanks John and everyone else who's trying so hard to help me. I'll check the lines tomorrow. It might be the only option left. I don't think I should just live with this issue.
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  #28  
Old 12-26-2015, 06:49 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Did you take the weight off of the front tires when you turned the steering wheel side to side. I have no idea why this would make that much of a difference, but it seems to work. I've tried turning the wheels without raising the car with NO success, but when I took the load off of the system by raising the front wheels, it actually worked. See Below:
How to Bleed
Step 1
Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the
power steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can
cause metal to metal contact and damage.
Step 2
Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod.
Step 3
Turn steering wheel
fully to the left.
Step 4
Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.
Step 5
Whith an assistant checking the fluid level and
condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and
smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in
pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped,
no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the
reservoir or pump. Until this
bubble passes, no fluid will
circulate through the system.
— On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram
assist you may need
to cycle in excess
of 40 times.
— Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this
will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir.
Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thor
oughly clean any spille
d fluid to allow for
leak check.
Step 6
Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist.
— If you see any signs of bubb
les, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above.
— Fluid level should be steady (R
ock Ram’s level will vary slightly).
Step 7
Disable engine from starting. (
Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems
)
— Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid leve
l drops, there is compressed air trapped in
the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable.
— If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minute
s or more until dispersed air has time to
accumulate and purge through the reservoir.
Step 8
Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible

Nyles
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  #29  
Old 12-27-2015, 01:34 PM
Deanj Deanj is offline
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I raised the front wheels and turned stop to stop 6 times each way. No change. No pinched lines. Loud buzzing noise from pump goes on, but disappears while turning wheels.

I might add no one, the manual included, said bleed system before starting and turning wheels was so important. I'm betting I may have damaged the pump since the noise is strongest there.

It's been suggested here that I drive it until something fails, except I dislike driving my cars with any embarrassing noises.
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  #30  
Old 12-27-2015, 01:55 PM
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I've been working on cars for over 40 years and I've always bled power steering the same way. With the engine running and the wheels on the ground and I've never caused any damage doing it that way. No offense to what Nyles posted but if that is the correct way then the manual would have you do it. You didn't do any damage to the pump by doing it the way you did it.

John
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