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  #11  
Old 10-19-2015, 04:24 PM
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Where the bolt is on your intake my '60 had a dual port adapter. One port went to the vacuum assist fuel pump (basically a booster for the vacuum wipers from the engine intake) - the other port to the vacuum booster for the brakes.


Carl Heller ( partsetal ) here on the forum should have a used adapter.

When I installed the '64ish engine that port had been moved to the back corner near where the road draft tube was. Found a pic! (carb was covered with plastic wrap to keep out any loose stuff that would have surely gone into the engine if I hadn't covered it).



First off - you can see the PCV cap in the valve cover that I described earlier (acts as the crankcase breather and the fresh air intake for my PCV). Since it's a push in style that's where I add oil. Yours still has the oil fill at the crankcase so you will need the style filter cap that pushes in to the breather tube. Believe you already have that but were going to get a new one. That's where I still had a little smoke coming out on my first PCV design try.

Plumbing nightmare - but on mine you can see the rubber hose attached to the back of the carb spacer (PCV input) then connects to a hard silver metal tube that I ran beside the valve cover and across in front of the carb to another rubber hose which connects to the PCV valve on in the other valve cover. You shouldn't need any of that for your original style system.
The rest of the silver metal tubes are for the vacuum wipers and vacuum to the brake booster.

Don't see any reason you shouldn't be able to use the original PCV system. Might be a little hard to find that crankcase vent outlet adapter too but I just took the road draft tube off my outlet and used that smaller opening. As Dave mentioned if the engine is really worn it may not grab all the fumes but I figured some was better than none.

I wonder if that regulator valve is actually regulating the amount of vacuum being pulled too and not just a PCV valve. Carl will know and may have one of those as well.

One of these may be the type PCV/regulator you need - guess you would need to find the original part number and cross reference.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/59-60-61-62-...FWHGiY&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCV40-PCV-Va...oDtiww&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCV40-PCV-Va...p-JlTQ&vxp=mtr

NAPA might still carry them if you can get the part number.

Eric
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2015, 02:49 PM
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Default What size steel tubing did you use?

Ok, I have collected up all the parts I need except for the steel tubing to run from the Vacuum Pump Exhaust Tube Connection to the PCV Regulator.

What size steel tubing do you recommend? 3/8"? 1/2"? 5/8"? It has to be big enough for the PCV to get through.....



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  #13  
Old 11-03-2015, 05:02 PM
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Unfortunately the Ford Parts manual doesn't show the size of the tube. However the tube connector shows a 3/4"-18 fitting size so it appears to be larger than 3/8"

John
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2015, 07:53 PM
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Default thanks John!

Hi John:

Thanks! Yes, the manual is somewhat remiss about some of these specs. I'll probably go 5/8" if I can. The local restoration spot recommended that size or bigger to accommodate the PCV.
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  #15  
Old 11-03-2015, 09:04 PM
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For the PCV lines shown - I used 5/16 fuel line I had left over (I replaced the fuel line on my car a while back and it was laying around) seems to be working fine but a little larger probably wouldn't hurt. I think the PCV inlet was around 5/16 so figured if that was a large enough opening for the valve it should work for the line - but I was definitely guessing (and besides - the fuel line was free so that made it even better).

I bought a used vacuum line from Carl for the brakes - not sure what size it is (didn't want to modify my original). To make the used line that I bought from Carl reach to the other side of the block where the new vacuum port is I put 5/16 line inside the used line and soldered them together. Of course that tells us that the original brake vac line is a little bigger than 5/16.

Eric
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:19 PM
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Red face Thanks, Eric!

Hi Eric:

Thanks for your help! I hope to finally get to this in the next few weeks, and I will make sure I post lots of pictures. I take many to make sure that if I have to put it back together I can! And if anyone can learn from what we do...mo' bettah.


~g
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  #17  
Old 11-21-2015, 10:15 PM
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My 63 390 intake has the port and tube from the back of the intake to the carb spacer plate but I don't have the proper check valve. Anyone know where I can get one?
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2015, 11:15 PM
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If you can't find one from your local auto store Rockauto.com has them in stock. PCV valves are all the same so as long as you find one with the correct inlet and outlet size it will work.

John
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  #19  
Old 11-22-2015, 02:04 AM
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I'm with John for the most part. PCV valves are DIRECTIONAL and they usually have an arrow on the side showing flow. They are designed to block flow in the opposite direction so that a backfire does not send air/fuel mixture into your block.

To test flow, blow into one end. If it flows free then the arrow should point away from your mouth. If flow feels blocked, then your mouth-side should be the engine side.

PCVs came in a host of configurations. Some are threaded on one end and a hose connection on the other end. On the kind with threads, one end COULD be screwed into the carb side or it could be for a car with a threaded hole in the engine side, all depending on the direction of flow. Pay attention and get the right one. I would find one for a car similar in size to your engine.

For example, let's say you have a 390. Pontiac made a 389, a Dodge 383 and many engines hover around 400 cubes. If you have a 352, that's very close to a Chevy 350 or a Dodge 340. They may all work the same but we have a wide variety of engine displacements to choose from.

I use the type that pushes into a rubber grommet in the valve cover. It's important that you have TWO ports in your engine: one pulling for the PCV and the other to let fresh air in. If your engine is closed up and you create a vacuum by installing a single PCV, you will pull oil passed the rings, creating more blowby. Conversely, if your engine is old and tired it may have more blowby than any PCV could possibly deal with. For these types, I use a passive system that simply plugs into the air cleaner, not the intake manifold. I drill my port on the outside of the air cleaner element and plumb the hose to either your valley pan or a rocker cover with NO PCV valve. This method was used in the first cars with pollution controls. - Dave
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  #20  
Old 11-24-2015, 09:39 AM
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I found the correct pcv valve at Rockauto for 5 bux. It is the metal valve that screws into a fitting behind the carb that attaches to carb spacer. They also have the correct carb spacer gasket with the extension for pcv inlet. The car had just a carb gasket under the plate which doesnt seal pcv inlet and it must have had one hell of a vacuum leak.
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