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  #11  
Old 08-26-2015, 09:53 PM
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John good advice. As the saying goes 10 Holley carbs= 1 good operating carb. I agree Edelbrock minimum 640 cfm.
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2015, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I would like to say your problems are over but from experience whatever caused it to run rough will most likely come back. It's one of the reasons I ditched the Ford carburetor and went with an Edelbrock. Even with a new tank, new lines, new fuel pump, new filter and rebuilt carburetor I still couldn't get mine to run smooth for more than a couple days. Then I would have to take it apart and clean it out even though it looked perfectly clean. If I took the idle mixture screws out and shot carburetor cleaner into the holes it would run fine for a couple of days and then it would start running rough again. I chalked it up to something in the modern fuels and left it at that.

John
Thank you John. That being said, I will order the Edelbrock 1406 to save troubles in the future. Is it difficult to install the new carb and should I get any additional parts that may be needed with it?
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  #13  
Old 08-27-2015, 11:03 AM
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The Edelbrock carb is very simple to install. The hardest part is finding 12V for the electric choke. If you have power windows you can hook it up to the relay on the firewall. If not you will need to run a wire to a switched 12V source. You may need to adjust the accelerator rod slightly. I think I had to turn mine out few turns to make it longer. Just bolt it on, connect the vacuum advance to the full vacuum port, connect the fuel line, the accelerator rod, the accelerator linkage spring, the choke, block off the unused vacuum ports and you are good to go. It comes preset as far as the idle mixture screws go but they usually need a small adjustment as do the idle speed adjustments. I had to put a large rubber o ring about 1/8" thick between the air horn and the air cleaner so it fit correctly. It's an easy upgrade and well worth it.

John
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2015, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
The Edelbrock carb is very simple to install. The hardest part is finding 12V for the electric choke. If you have power windows you can hook it up to the relay on the firewall. If not you will need to run a wire to a switched 12V source. You may need to adjust the accelerator rod slightly. I think I had to turn mine out few turns to make it longer. Just bolt it on, connect the vacuum advance to the full vacuum port, connect the fuel line, the accelerator rod, the accelerator linkage spring, the choke, block off the unused vacuum ports and you are good to go. It comes preset as far as the idle mixture screws go but they usually need a small adjustment as do the idle speed adjustments. I had to put a large rubber o ring about 1/8" thick between the air horn and the air cleaner so it fit correctly. It's an easy upgrade and well worth it.

John
Thank you John, seems I should be able to do this with your helpfull description. I'll get back to report when the new carb is up and running.
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2015, 02:22 PM
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It always seems to come up that the fuel inlet on the Edelbrock is on the right rear of the carburetor, behind the choke, vs. being on the front of the carb like the Autolite. Not a major deal, but it is probably the biggest modification needed. You'll either need to bend some tubing or run some rubber tubing to the inlet.
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  #16  
Old 08-30-2015, 04:59 PM
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One last thing. Today I noticed that under my carburator there is some kind of spacer. The spacer seems to fall apart and one corner of the carb is unerlayed with couple of washers (???). Do I need any of that with the new Edelbrock carb (I guess not) ?
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  #17  
Old 08-30-2015, 05:44 PM
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You will need the spacer plate with your new carburetor. The reason for the tapered spacer is that the motor is at an angle and the spacer allows the carburetor to be level. New spacers are available if yours is too far gone.

John
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  #18  
Old 08-31-2015, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
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You will need the spacer plate with your new carburetor. The reason for the tapered spacer is that the motor is at an angle and the spacer allows the carburetor to be level. New spacers are available if yours is too far gone.

John
Thank you John, I will order it. I found it on the MAC's for bloody $70. I guess I should also replace the carb gasket. Will I need two of those to put one at the top and one at the bottom of the spacer?

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  #19  
Old 08-31-2015, 02:16 AM
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Yes, you will need a gasket above and below the spacer.

John
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  #20  
Old 08-31-2015, 07:34 AM
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Measure your studs. Are they long enough to support a tapered spacer? You are ordering a TAPERED spacer, right?
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