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  #1  
Old 08-26-2016, 08:35 PM
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Default Flickering lights

All 4 brake lights work fine when the lights switch is in off. All normal lights work fine when brake is not applied. But when pressing the brake pedal with the lights on, first all works fine, but after approximately 10 seconds, the instrument lights start to flicker and also all the rear lights. They go out completely and after a few seconds come on again and then it starts all over again.
It looks as if tapping on the light switch will change the frequency of the flickering a bit. Can a bad or dirty switch cause a problem like this?
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Old 08-26-2016, 10:51 PM
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Yes, but a ground wire can do the same thing. Or a fuse connector. What's happening is when the amps go up a gremlin connection won't let enough electricity go through.

I had a similar thing happen on a circuit and I isolated it to a fuse connector. I had to clean it and re-clean it about 4 times before I got it to work properly. A little bit of corrosion provided just the right amount of resistance.

Trace back through the circuits with a good ohmeter.
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Old 08-27-2016, 03:39 AM
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Check for loose connections first. Your Headlight Switch includes a circuit breaker inside. Either your current is too much or the switch is bad.

The dash, backup, parking, tail and brake lights are fed from your Headlight Sw., but not your flashers. Does this also happen when you turn your headlights on? Can you hear a 'click' noise coming from the dash?

Overcurrent can be proved by measuring the yellow wire on the battery side of your Starter Relay. - Dave
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Old 08-27-2016, 07:12 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys. Using the headlights or not, does not make a difference regarding the flickering, the headlights don´t flicker though.
I do hear a faint clicking from under the dash. What is a normal current draw for all the lights together?
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Old 08-27-2016, 12:05 PM
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So i did some measurements on the current draw. Put my amp meter between the yellow wire and the battery and measured 6.2A with only the light switch in the first position. When disconnecting all the rear lights, still have a draw of 3.5A, for all the instrument panel lights, which seems to be normal. Now with using the brake as well (just connected the two connectors from the brake pressure switch together), the draw goes to 16,3A. Using only the brakes gives 10.2A, which seems to be quite high.
Now i see in the original wiring diagram that there are only 4 light bulbs in total, while on my car, they have put a total of 8 light bulbs (2 bulbs per light assy + one for reverse).
This ofcourse will double the current for normal lights, but also for the brakes. I will start removing or disconnecting 4 light bulbes and see if that will do the trick.
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Old 08-27-2016, 12:58 PM
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Yesss, i removed one light bulb per light assy and now no flickering anymore. Total current draw is around the 10A now, with light switch in first position and brakes applied. I´m thinking in using LED´s in the tail lights. Will that work ok for the flasher? Probably a load resistor needed?
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Old 08-27-2016, 03:30 PM
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Study the following video and stop it in various places to understand the schematics: CLICK HERE

If you have questions, please ask. - Dave
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:16 AM
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Thanks for the info Dave. How will the current draw be with the resistors installed? Eventhough the LED is drawing a very low current, the parallel resistor will still draw quite some current i think, so will there be any reduction in total current?
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:56 PM
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You are on the right track... The first replacement LED will simulate the current draw of an incandescent 1157 bulb on the brake circuit only (because of the load resistor for the flasher unit). The next LED in parallel will draw practically nothing. So in total, if you have four rear bulbs, LEDs will draw the same as two on the brake circuits and nearly nothing on the parking light circuit.

A word of caution... Because current draw is so low, the 'return side' or chassis ground contact must be VERY good.

Bear in mind that the parking light circuit gets a 'current dropping' resistor to dim the LED. None of this current is shunted to chassis ground.

'Current savings' is realized when you consider the parking lights AND brake lights when they are on at the same time. By comparison to an incandescent, LEDs draw about 1/10th the current, they run much cooler and they last nearly forever. - Dave
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