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  #1  
Old 06-22-2015, 04:50 PM
DalecarliaEric DalecarliaEric is offline
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Default Pertronix Ignitor again

Hi guys,

I have just installed the Pertronix Ignitor in the distributor and use the original coil and resistor wire. I prefer to use a 12 V (Flame Thrower) coil and feed it with 12 V. I have found some wires that provide 12 volts when the ignition is on, but not when I crank the engine.

In my Electrical Assembly Manual I can see that from the top of the ignition switch are two wires, the pink resistor wire and a black wire with green band connected to the same terminal. My hope is to find the wire with green band and attach a 12V wire from it to the coil.

Anyone know where I can find the black wire with green band easily accessible under the hood under the hood (I am not an acrobat, and do not want to crawl under the dashboard)?

What do you think about my second hand solution? Installing a 12 V coil, connect the 8-9 V resistor wire AND a 12 V wire to the + terminal on the 12 V coil. When I crank the engine I hope the engine will start using the power from the resistor wire. When the engine is running the coil feeds by the 12 V wire (and the 8-9 V from the resistor wire of course).

Thanks in advance

Eric
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2015, 05:32 PM
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The black/green wire goes to the CVR behind the dash. I wouldn't use that. If you want 12V just run a new wire to the ignition switch. It has screw terminals so it's not difficult to put a new wire on.

John
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  #3  
Old 06-22-2015, 10:29 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Most of the "12v when on" are accessory circuits, so no, don't use any of those.

You can bypass the resistor wire totally under the hood. I forget the method right now, maybe Dave Dare can step in. As I recall it requires jumping a wire at the starter relay. But it has to be done right or the engine won't shut off.
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Old 06-23-2015, 04:55 AM
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Solid state components, like Pertronix, need full voltage at all times.

Your Key Switch has four connection posts:

S(tart) - middle post, back of the switch
B(attery) - always hot and fed from the Headlight Switch
A(ccessory)
IGN(ition)

Your pink wire connects to the IGN post on the Key Switch and so does your GEN light. THIS is the post you should connect a new wire to, and run it into your engine compartment. Leave the pink wire there just in case you ever go back to mechanical points. Simply loop the end back onto itself and tape it off in the engine compartment.

Your new IGN wire may be used for an electric choke as well as your Pertronix and Flame Thrower coil. Some folks take power from the battery for the choke but run a relay coil from the IGN wire. I suggest you run your Pertronix straight off this new wire for uninterrupted power (no relay contacts and no resistance, IE: fewer things to go wrong). When you turn the key off your ignition will be dead.

Originally, there was a separate wire that connected between the Starter Relay 'I' post, to the Coil +. You no longer need this since Pertronix will always get full voltage whenever the key is on. So remove the black coil wire, loop it onto itself and tape it. I do the loops so I don't forget these wires are intentionally terminated. - Dave
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  #5  
Old 06-28-2015, 10:58 AM
DalecarliaEric DalecarliaEric is offline
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Hi

Thanks for your answers. Maybe a dumb question, but what is the CVR behind the dash?

Eric
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  #6  
Old 06-28-2015, 12:03 PM
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Default Pertronix Ignitor again

Eric, the CVR behind the dash is the Constant Voltage Regulator. It takes the 12volts from the Battery and drops it down to an oscillating 6 volts for the gauges. They, not being 12 volt gauges, would and do burn out or become defective if they are hit with a straight 12 volts. That CVR has been known to go bad and allow those 12 volts to go straight through the CVR unit to the gauges. When that happens, you will have to have your gauges rebuilt, and that is expensive.

Since you are a Paid Member, you qualify for the special pricing arrangement that our terrific webmaster, Dave Dare ~ simplyconnected has come up with for Paid Members. He will take your OEM CVR you send him and build a modern, totally guaranteed, solid state CVR in the case and send it back to you. If it should ever have a problem, he will fix it for you. This solid state CVR unit will NOT allow 12 volts to go straight to the gauges, and provides a steady 6 volts to the gauges, thereby protecting them from damage. Many of the OEM type of CVR units available to purchase new these days are made in China. As such, I have been told by one of our major Tbird parts houses, that they are known to fail.

I would suggest that you either email or send Dave a Private Message and he can explain all the details of this solid state CVR unit to you. I had two OEM CVR units fail on me, damaging my gauges, until I installed a solid state CVR unit. Since then, I have not had anymore problems. BTW, that was NOT a dumb question...

I am going to take this one step further and say that if any of you, Paid or Non-Paid Member, happen to have your dash or instrument panel out, working on it, NOW is the time to replace that old OEM CVR unit. I found my OEM CVR unit mounted to and grounded to one of the dash metal frame pieces. Often though, pictures have shown them to be mounted on the back of the instrument pane. After all, this CVR is probably the original OEM CVR, and if so, it has been running for 55 years! If you have never had a problem with it, one of these days you probably will. So, while you have things taken apart, if you are not a Paid Member, become one ($20yr, and the money keeps this Forum operating) and take advantage of the deal Dave is providing you. It is like getting your Paid Membership for FREE! If you are a Paid Member already, it is like getting a refund for your Paid Membership... After all, if you buy the other solid state CVR unit that is available, it is going to cost you nearly $60, including shipping, and a lot more for overseas, and THEY do not cover the cost of your Paid Membership.... Check out my Post #1 in this thread... BTW, this CVR unit was NOT just used in Squarebirds. They were used in '58-66 Tbirds.

http://www.squarebirds.org/vbulletin...ad.php?t=14869
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Last edited by YellowRose : 06-28-2015 at 12:36 PM.
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  #7  
Old 07-05-2015, 05:07 PM
DalecarliaEric DalecarliaEric is offline
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Default Pertronix Ignitor again

Thanks for the explanation. I think it is the same typ of Constant Voltage Regulator I had in my Mustang 1966.

Eric
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