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  #11  
Old 06-23-2015, 02:10 PM
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simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
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Ford steel wheels were made in Ford's Monroe plant. The center part, we call the 'spider' is stamped. The outer part or 'rim' is roll-formed, then both pieces are spot welded in a fixture. If there is a 'Ford oval', it should be stamped into the spider.

Original 14" wheels were designed to fit around a drum. Since calipers were not invented yet, there is no relief in the rim's contour for a caliper to fit, even if you tried to space it out. The wheel centers will fit over a Mustang rotor snout but not a Granada snout.

Granada and Mustang rotors are 11" but that is about all they have in common. Mustang rotors have the same snout, seals and bearings as your Squarebird drum hubs so they bolt on without any machining or modifications. - Dave
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  #12  
Old 06-23-2015, 08:16 PM
Daleo56 Daleo56 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Ford steel wheels were made in Ford's Monroe plant. The center part, we call the 'spider' is stamped. The outer part or 'rim' is roll-formed, then both pieces are spot welded in a fixture. If there is a 'Ford oval', it should be stamped into the spider.

Original 14" wheels were designed to fit around a drum. Since calipers were not invented yet, there is no relief in the rim's contour for a caliper to fit, even if you tried to space it out. The wheel centers will fit over a Mustang rotor snout but not a Granada snout.

Granada and Mustang rotors are 11" but that is about all they have in common. Mustang rotors have the same snout, seals and bearings as your Squarebird drum hubs so they bolt on without any machining or modifications. - Dave
I put the original wheels on today. The stock rims barely rubbed as you can see on the picture below. It was not enough to gouge the metal but enough to make noise. I bet there is a caliper out there that would work. I may ask Lucio next time I see him if there is a chance in heck something else would work...

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  #13  
Old 06-23-2015, 08:31 PM
Daleo56 Daleo56 is offline
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Step Thirteen

I purchased a 5/16" to 3/16" adapter for the rear master cylinder port, a plug for the front block, a 3/16" to 3/16" to 1/8 pipe "T" for the rear brake line and a 1/8 pipe union for the switch. It was $12 at a local hose shop. I used a 20" 3/16" brake line with a couple bends and it fit perfectly to the rear T.

It is hard to see the lines down there but they are clean and no changes to the front pipes were made. The wires for the brake switch are also stock length and did not need to be changed. Very cool!





Step Fourteen to Seventeen

I bled all four corners by myself with a vac pump however I really need to have the wife pump the pedal the old way. I never get the pumps to work right...

I may paint the top of the MC but otherwise the brakes are DONE.



Step Eighteen

Brought the Snowbird home, parked it next to the wife's 56' and opened a cold beer. Except for the pedal bolt ..!.. this whole experience was very cool! Thank you all for the positive feedback and I am willing to help anyone out who lives near me. I will even do most of the work, except for that stoopid bolt...

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  #14  
Old 06-23-2015, 10:11 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is online now
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Looks really nice. I might take you up on the experienced labor, if and when I decide to go disc. I'd love to drive the Bird and see how the brakes feels. Did you try and stick the stock rims on after the conversion? Nice to know you found the tee at hose man. I couldn't find one down here, so I ordered it on Ebay.
Nyles
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  #15  
Old 06-23-2015, 10:11 PM
Yellowbird Yellowbird is offline
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I'm getting ready to do the brakes on my '58.

I noticed you painted the Scarebird brackets. What did you do to be able to coat the zinc coated brackets?

I also spoke with Ed at ABS brakes today concerning the bracket, booster and m/c. They will not sell the bracket by itself. It would appear that everything mounted up well except for the one "stoopid" bolt.
Whose combination/proportion valve did you use?

Thanks.
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  #16  
Old 06-23-2015, 10:16 PM
Yellowbird Yellowbird is offline
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By the way, I'm digging the '56 Chevrolets (yes I know it's a Ford Forum).

My first car was a '56 2 door hardtop, 265 power-pak, powerglide, wonderbar radio, factory a/c.

I wish I had never sold it. The older I get the more I come to the realization that I probably will not be able to afford one that was close to mine. But, who knows?

Great looking '56's!!!!!!
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  #17  
Old 06-23-2015, 10:24 PM
toddgilroy toddgilroy is offline
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Were you able to get a black booster from ABS or did you paint that, too? I think I remember your picture when you first bought it and it wasn't black.

Thanks
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  #18  
Old 06-23-2015, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daleo56 View Post
I put the original wheels on today. The stock rims barely rubbed as you can see on the picture below. It was not enough to gouge the metal but enough to make noise. I bet there is a caliper out there that would work. I may ask Lucio next time I see him if there is a chance in heck something else would work...

Believe it or not, your wheels flex. If your calipers are touching the rim they are too close. How much gap should you have? I would want at least 1/8" (.125") for a bare minimum. Some 14" wheels clear that. How did your Summit wheels work? Marcelo liked his a lot. - Dave
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  #19  
Old 06-23-2015, 10:29 PM
Daleo56 Daleo56 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird1044 View Post
Looks really nice. I might take you up on the experienced labor, if and when I decide to go disc. I'd love to drive the Bird and see how the brakes feels. Did you try and stick the stock rims on after the conversion? Nice to know you found the tee at hose man. I couldn't find one down here, so I ordered it on Ebay.
Nyles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowbird View Post
I'm getting ready to do the brakes on my '58.

I noticed you painted the Scarebird brackets. What did you do to be able to coat the zinc coated brackets?

I also spoke with Ed at ABS brakes today concerning the bracket, booster and m/c. They will not sell the bracket by itself. It would appear that everything mounted up well except for the one "stoopid" bolt.
Whose combination/proportion valve did you use?

Thanks.
I only bought the MC from ABS.

I did not use a proportioning valve. Lucio at ABS said I would not need one for a 58-60 since the rear brake shoes were so small. It brakes level however I will test it hard again once I re-bleed it.

Side note: the Scarebird kit instructions say to use an adjustable valve only on the rear so it makes sense that not using a proportioning valve is ok.
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  #20  
Old 06-23-2015, 10:33 PM
Yellowbird Yellowbird is offline
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Where did you find the mounting bracket? So far 2 machine shops will not quote it for me.

Thanks
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