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  #21  
Old 06-20-2015, 10:17 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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If you're going to run a relay signal though a manual switch on the dash, use a circuit that is only on with ignition. That way it will go "off" when you turn the engine off. Run that parallel to a thermostat switch so they operate independently. The thermostat signal to the relay should also be on an ignition circuit. Both should be through 2amp fuses so you can use #22 wire.

Your relay should be under the hood to reduce the length of #10 wire needed to power the fan. My Lincoln Mark VIII fan draws over 50 amps at 14v. Most aftermarket fans aren't that strong, but probably draw 30.
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  #22  
Old 06-20-2015, 11:09 AM
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I thought the heater wire was only live with the key turned on, that's why I chose to use that wire for the switch.
At the moment though every time I turn the key to on its blowing the in line fuse on for the heater. I went to a 20 amp fuse, that blew so I've just left it for now so nothing bad happens under there.
Something isn't right, I'm pretty sure the original fuse was a 5 or 10 amp.
Some reason I'm getting a lot of power coming from the relays to the switch.
Not making any sense.
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  #23  
Old 06-20-2015, 11:45 AM
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I suggest you run a new wire to the ignition switch rather than use the exiting wires. The existing wires were just barely adequate for what they were intended for let alone what you are trying to use them for. Trying to put a larger fuse on a smaller wire is a recipe for disaster.

John
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  #24  
Old 06-20-2015, 03:23 PM
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Relay coils draw practically nothing. If you are blowing dash fuses you have a short circuit. Disconnect all your new wiring and ring it out to track down the short.

As John suggests, fuses are there to protect the wire. If you put small-gauge wire on a heavy-amp fuse, you just turned the wire into the fuse. So, stick with the same size wire for the fuse on that branch. Just because your coils draw less than one amp does not mean you can put 20-gauge wire on an existing circuit fused at 15-amps. It doesn't work that way. 15-amps will fry a 20-ga. wire.

You CAN put a two-amp fuse on that 15-amp circuit, then use 20-ga wire to feed relay coils.

Carefully go through your wiring and find your short. - Dave
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  #25  
Old 06-20-2015, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Checked with test light, got power to the relays but that's where it stops.
Are you sure the relays are correctly connected?

Follow the suggestions exactly and if your fans do run when connected directly (hot wired) to the battery, the should also work when activated by the relays.
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  #26  
Old 06-20-2015, 05:50 PM
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Here is the circuit you should follow:

Notice the top half is 'control', fed by a two amp fuse.
The bottom half is fan power, using #10 wire.

Most automotive relays follow this format:

I hope this helps. - Dave
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  #27  
Old 06-20-2015, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Johnston View Post
Are you sure the relays are correctly connected?

Follow the suggestions exactly and if your fans do run when connected directly (hot wired) to the battery, the should also work when activated by the relays.
Just a thought - are the relay metal or plastic bodied?
Because if they have a metal body they maybe are grounded via the body, if you've used what should be the ground terminal as a'hot' terminal it could be the source of your short.
I generally use plastic bodied relays and have the wire from the earth (ground) terminal running to the switch that activates the relay, the switch merely grounds the relays to activate it and you only need a single wire running to the switch. (Plus a short wire running from the switch to the metal part of the dash or a similar source of ground).
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  #28  
Old 06-20-2015, 06:53 PM
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Ok, I'll put a new wire onto the ignition switch I think. Start from scratch as John suggested. I have double and triple checked the relay wires and they are right. I'm using 2 4 pin relays with 30 amp fuses.they are plastic bodied, so that should be fine.
Dave that diagram is exactly how I've wired them, only thing is I haven't got any extra 2amp fuses as I was trying to use the existing one.
I'll put new wire in, New fuse and see how I go.
And with the recipe for disaster, I know that, that's why I stopped. I never actually planned on using a big fuse I was more just trying to chase down the problem.
Unfortunately the previous owner has made a bit of a mess behind the dash and things aren't easy to find, especially when I've got little knowledge of wiring. It's obviously a bit frustrating haha.
Once the temperature here gets above 1 degree c, I'll get out in the garage and start again, bit fresh this morning.
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  #29  
Old 06-20-2015, 11:11 PM
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Ok gone off another point, now fans come on immediately, even with switch either on or off. When I flick switch, fuse blows again.
Brand new relays and toggle switch, could one of these be faulty.
Everything works as it should, heater, electric wiper motor etc until I tap switch wires too it.
Think it might be time to start again.
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  #30  
Old 06-21-2015, 02:32 AM
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I have numbered the wires on the diagram for you (so look at it again). If the wire numbers don't show up, hit F5 on your keyboard.

Now number your wires. Where a wire comes out of a device, number it according to the diagram.

Then connect all the #1 wires together, then connect all the #2 wires together, and so on.

This is a very simple arrangement that works well and it is easy to follow. Go through it wire by wire. - Dave
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