This will take you to the main site where there is history, technical information and other information on these cars.
This takes you back to the main page of the forums.
This is the control panel to change your password, information and preferences on this message board.
Click here if your lost your password or need to register on this message board. You must be a registered user to post. Registration is free.
Search this board for information you need.
Click here to buy cool Squarebirds mechandise.
Click here to support Squarebirds.org. For $20 annually receive 20mBytes webspace, a Squarebirds e-mail address and member's icon on the message board.
  #11  
Old 06-19-2015, 03:13 AM
chris58 chris58 is offline
Experienced
 
Join Date: May 28 2014
Posts: 243
chris58 is on a distinguished road
Default

Ok all hooked up and no go. I had lots of clicking under the dashboard but no action. Double checked everything all seems good.
I tried to switch of the radio wire first and now switched off the heater wire.
Checked with test light, got power to the relays but that's where it stops.
Not sure what's going on.

Last edited by chris58 : 06-19-2015 at 04:31 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-19-2015, 09:02 AM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Aug 11 2012
Posts: 1,910
Yadkin is on a distinguished road
Default

What size alternator are you running? Some of these fans will draw more that the older alternators will put out.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-19-2015, 11:28 AM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
Super-Experienced
 
Join Date: May 31 2007
Posts: 1,300
RustyNCa is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris58 View Post
Ok all hooked up and no go. I had lots of clicking under the dashboard but no action. Double checked everything all seems good.
I tried to switch of the radio wire first and now switched off the heater wire.
Checked with test light, got power to the relays but that's where it stops.
Not sure what's going on.
Are your relays under the dash? Also what size relays are you running?

I'd run the relays up by the battery to keep the high power leads as short as possible and run the activator wire from the switch out to the relays. Then you only need the one small lead out from the cab to the relays.

And I would agree with Yadkin, if you aren't running a stout alternator, you may find you are running off battery at idle and low speed and the alternator won't keep up. I'm running a 115 amp gm one wire on my olds with the dual fans to keep up. I started with a 130 amp, but it died and I had a local alternator guru rebuild it. He said the 130 was overkill and wouldn't last long... so I went with his advice. I have a 120 amp powermaster on our 58, but have been fighting it causing the belt to slip.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-19-2015, 01:22 PM
simplyconnected's Avatar
simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
Slow Typist
 
Join Date: May 26 2009
Posts: 7,080
simplyconnected is on a distinguished road
Default

Just like all relay circuits (power top, power windows, seats, etc.) think of your circuit as two independent circuits. One 'side' is high power (fef from the battery) and the other is control (fed from the dash).

If you hear clicking, that is the relay coil(s) energizing the control side contacts.

The power side simply switches battery power, on and off to your motors.

Start at the fan motors, individually. Connect a long jumper 'test wire' to your battery +. Be careful not to ground this hot jumper but touch it to the motor lead that is not grounded. Does the motor turn? If not, reverse the motor leads and see if it rotates in the other direction. Test both motors.

Simple DC motors should work in either direction but I have found some that the manufacturer put a diode in for one direction only.

If the motors do turn in either direction, follow the motor lead to your relay's normally open contacts. One side of the normally open contact should be hot all the time and the other side is your motor lead. You can use that jumper wire on the relay coil to temporarily energize it, just to bypass the thermostat.

I'm assuming a lot here. I assume your fan motors are properly grounded and so are your relay coils. I also assume you put the fuse close to your battery so as much of the circuit as possible will be protected, and that all connections are tight. - Dave
__________________
My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-19-2015, 06:08 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
Experienced
 
Join Date: May 28 2014
Posts: 243
chris58 is on a distinguished road
Default

Ok, the relays are right next to the battery, I'm using 2 30 amp relays. The wire I'm using is suitable for 50 amp, I've checked all connections, they're good. All the earths are solid so I'm happy there.
I'm only trying to get them to operate off a manual toggle switch in the cab at the moment as this is all just test fitting prior to removing engine. So I don't think the alternator is an issue, that will be big enough, 100amp.
I've tried jumping the fans manually but that's not working either so I'm wondering if there might be something wrong with them.
These fans can operate either direction as I've used them on other cars.
So Dave your saying to just jump with a lead straight off the battery+ and connect to the fans without fan earth attached. Which I tried with no luck.
Thanks Chris.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-19-2015, 06:29 PM
simplyconnected's Avatar
simplyconnected simplyconnected is offline
Slow Typist
 
Join Date: May 26 2009
Posts: 7,080
simplyconnected is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris58 View Post
...So Dave your saying to just jump with a lead straight off the battery+ and connect to the fans without fan earth attached. Which I tried with no luck.
Thanks Chris.
No, I want you to ground one fan lead and put a positive jumper to the other side.

If the fans don't work off of straight battery power, they must be bad.

BTW, a toggle switch inside your car is not a great idea. You will forget and your engine will overheat. You need an automatic temp sensor. - Dave
__________________
My latest project:
CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
--Lee Iacocca
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-19-2015, 06:45 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
Experienced
 
Join Date: May 28 2014
Posts: 243
chris58 is on a distinguished road
Default

My bad Dave, yep fans work fine, both ways.
I will be using a thermo temp switch when the vehicle is running and will also have a manual switch inside the car, something I've always had fitted in my other cars. but for now just keeping it basic.
Now I need to figure out why they don't run off the toggle switch inside the car.
I'll have to check my wiring under the dashboard to make sure I've got power again as the switch should work.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-19-2015, 07:09 PM
scumdog's Avatar
scumdog scumdog is offline
Super-Experienced
 
Join Date: May 12 2006
Posts: 1,339
scumdog is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post

BTW, a toggle switch inside your car is not a great idea. You will forget and your engine will overheat. You need an automatic temp sensor. - Dave
Except in my case.
After running with NO fan in the F100 for 35 years I learned to keep an eye on the temp guage, particularly when in slow traff, at stop lights etc.

So when I fitted the elctric fan I ran a wire to a switch which grounds the relay to activate it. I rarely use the electric fan but sure as heck remember to turn it on when the guage reaches 190+.

And it make such a noise that when I turn the 429 off I can hear the fan whirring its head off - that way I don't forget to turn it off.

I also have fears about automatic sensors failing at an inopportune moment...

Just food for thought.
__________________
A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-19-2015, 07:30 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
Experienced
 
Join Date: May 28 2014
Posts: 243
chris58 is on a distinguished road
Default

Scumdog that's the same reason I have both. Fear of failure.
Ok I've checked underneath the dash and it appears now that the radio and heater wire has no power to it with the accessories on. It was working as I'd tapped my voltage gauge into the heater and now the gauge has stopped too.
Maybe a blown fuse, now to find the fuse.

Last edited by chris58 : 06-19-2015 at 07:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-19-2015, 10:00 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
Experienced
 
Join Date: May 28 2014
Posts: 243
chris58 is on a distinguished road
Default

Ok so I have found the culprit. The heater fuse keeps blowing every time I flick the switch. It had a 15amp in there but I don't want to go bigger yet as I'm not sure what size it should be or how big I can go.
I wouldn't have thought that there would be many amps going through the switch wires.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:11 AM.

Driving, racing or working on cars can be hazardous. The procedures and advice on this website including the message board are opinion only. Squarebirds.org and its webmasters and contributors do not guarantee the correctness of the advice and procedures. The Squarebirds.org and its webmasters assume no liability for any damage, fines, punishment, injury or death resulting from following these procedures or advice. If you do not have the skills or tools to repair your car, please consult a professional. By using this site you agree to hold harmless the Squarebirds.org, its authors and its webmasters from any resulting claim and costs that may occur from using the information found on this site.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Any submissions to this site and any post on this site becomes property of Squarebirds.org . The webmasters reserve the right to edit and modify any submissions to this site. All material on this is site is copyrighted by the Squarebirds.org. Reproduction by any means other than for personal use is strictly prohibited. Permission to use material on this site can be obtained by contacting the webmasters. Copyright 2002-2016 by Squarebirds.org.