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  #1  
Old 06-18-2015, 03:23 AM
chris58 chris58 is offline
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Default wiring in thermo fans

Hi all, I'm about to sort out my thermo fans out and get them wired in and I just want to make sure I'm going the right way about it.
Now I've got twin fans Which have 2 wires each, red and black and I think I'll run 2 relays and then use a manual switch for time being.
So basically I'm ok with what goes where except for the ignition/acc wire off the relay. Is there a suitable wire to splice into up the front of the car or can I fuse the wires and go to the ballast resistor or somewhere similar.
Thanks Chris.
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:36 AM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris58 View Post
Hi all, I'm about to sort out my thermo fans out and get them wired in and I just want to make sure I'm going the right way about it.
Now I've got twin fans Which have 2 wires each, red and black and I think I'll run 2 relays and then use a manual switch for time being.
So basically I'm ok with what goes where except for the ignition/acc wire off the relay. Is there a suitable wire to splice into up the front of the car or can I fuse the wires and go to the ballast resistor or somewhere similar.
Thanks Chris.
I always run a lead from a switched source to activate the fan relays on my cars. It does not take the fans long to drain a battery when you forget to shut them off. Usually the lead that runs the radio is a good choice since it is usually a switched lead, and I am trying to remember if that is true on the Squarebird, been a while since I wired in the radio.

I also like to run a lighted switch so I can glance at it and see if it's on or off.

This diagram is pretty close to how I am running the dual fans in my olds.

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Old 06-18-2015, 04:43 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
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That's similar to how I was going to set them up. I will be using an automatic switch later on but I'm more just getting everything setup before I pull the engine back out.
Is the radio wire a constant 12v or a ignition switch 12v.
I'm probably guessing that it's not constant as I'd assume the old radio wouldn't have had memory haha.
That drawing is basically the same as I'd planned on doing, I was just curious about suitable wiring to use.
Thanks Chris.
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Old 06-18-2015, 05:47 PM
RustyNCa RustyNCa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris58 View Post
That's similar to how I was going to set them up. I will be using an automatic switch later on but I'm more just getting everything setup before I pull the engine back out.
Is the radio wire a constant 12v or a ignition switch 12v.
I'm probably guessing that it's not constant as I'd assume the old radio wouldn't have had memory haha.
That drawing is basically the same as I'd planned on doing, I was just curious about suitable wiring to use.
Thanks Chris.
Should be easy to test, if you can find the lead under the dash for the radio. There isn't a fuse block, just inline fuses if your car is anything like mine.

Run a test light or gauge on the lead and see if it's hot without the key on vs off. Or if your radio works... does it work with the key on or off... My radio is out so that test wouldn't work
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Old 06-18-2015, 05:58 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
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Yeah I'll have a look this afternoon. The radio worked and I've cut the wires so it'll be easy to check. I'll also be installing an aftermarket radio so I've kept that wire separate.
Cheers.
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Old 06-18-2015, 06:07 PM
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del del is offline
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The radio lead came switched by the ignition from the factory.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:16 PM
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Chris, is your car equipped with A/C? If so, one of the fans MUST come on with the A/C clutch. It is important to keep air moving through the condenser any time the compressor is running. If you don't, pressure will build until the safety valve spews Freon out.

Power your fans from a fused battery lead. Be careful to run the fans in the correct direction (direction can be reversed). Run power to the relays from your key switch (the radio lead is ok). Relay coils take no power to run. Make sure the relay contacts are heavy enough to carry the current to run your fans. - Dave
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Old 06-18-2015, 08:07 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
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No air con Dave so all good there. Yeah all pretty straightforward to do.
I will have to swap the wires around to push not pull as I'll need to mount the fans in front of radiator.
I'll run from the relay directly to the battery+ via a 30 amp fuse on each wire with some good size wire so hopefully it will be ok.
Thanks Chris.
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Old 06-18-2015, 08:34 PM
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#10 AWG copper wire continuously carries 30 amps safely. Having said that, make sure your connections are tight. 30 amps is a lot of power and DC is continuous. A loose 30 amp connection will burn. I use crimp ring terminals with bolts and nuts to get the tightness I want. If I ever need to, I can disassemble the splice by removing the bolt. This is how we do electric motor leads at Ford.

You will remove the fan and spacer which will offer more room for you to shim the radiator towards the engine for more front fan space. I did this on our Galaxie and it works great. - Dave
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:04 PM
chris58 chris58 is offline
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Ok, that wire size will be easy enough, and yep tight connections.
There's already no fan and the nose of the pulley is very close to the radiator.
As I've got the windsor in there now with a different radiator, clearence is a bit of an issue.
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