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  #11  
Old 06-05-2015, 10:30 PM
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I tried a 10 or 12si with one of the multi-adjustable brackets similar to the one linked below. Had planned on welding it all together once I had it adjusted to fit. I did have to drill out the holes in the bracket for the larger original bolts to fit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tractor-Gene...7f53b5&vxp=mtr

It worked but there was only about 1/8 inch clearance between the back of the alternator and front edge of the engine.

The other bad part was there was only about 1/2 to 3/4 inch movement between the block and and the A-Arm for belt adjustment - then the alternator either hit the A-Arm or the adjuster bracket hit the generator fan. Notice how close the adjuster bracket is to the generator fan in his pic.

Hope the guy has done his homework with the Tbird. Although it seems like you would have tons of room - it's very tight down there between the A-Arm and block.
(make sure he will let you return it and maybe you will only be out shipping costs)

Eric
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  #12  
Old 06-05-2015, 11:31 PM
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Default Generator to alternator conversion

I am going to suggest something here that all of you contemplating or actually working on repairing or restoring that old Tbird of yours should keep in mind. Before you go throwing parts at a problem you are working on, let the people on this Forum who have been there and done that, often more than once, give you some input BEFORE you buy parts. They can tell you what parts you should look for, stay away from, and what worked and did not work for them. Get all the information you can on how to correctly fix that problem, what will work or not and what parts to get, or not get. Then, after you have gathered a lot of information, consider what parts you really need to get. Otherwise, you may just be throwing parts at a problem that are not going to work, might not be returnable, or were more costly then they should have been. As has been said before, we happen to be fortunate in having some the greatest experts on this planet on this Forum when it comes to repairing and restoring Tbirds. Some of the people on this Forum wrote the books on restoring and repairing Fords and Tbirds. One of them in particular helped build Fords in the Detroit plants, our webmaster... Others have restored more Tbird's of the '50's and '60's in the last 40-50 years or so than they can remember. They want to help you save time, delays, repetitive repairs, and money. That's my 2 cents...
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  #13  
Old 06-06-2015, 01:22 AM
JamesBorisPerez JamesBorisPerez is offline
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Default Generator to Alternator Conversion

I read the e-bay testimonials and they seemed ok. The set up seems flimsy, but I wanted to try to install, then if it was flimsy, at least I have something in place to serve as a template for a stronger bolt and bracket. The setups I saw online (C.R.A.P. and other sites) were very expensive. And I know some will say, you get what you pay for, but i'm willing to try to fabricate my own brackets. But I do appreciate the constructive feedback.
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2015, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I've tried using a 10SI alternator with the existing generator brackets and it DOES NOT WORK. The lower bracket does not line up with the alternator and I had to make an adapter bracket. Also the bolt that they show is not nearly strong enough and the alternator will twist under load. I would not recommend buying this.

John
I'd like to add to John's comment... This alt doesn't put out enough to run an electric fan. Maximum amps mean very little. The most important question is, how many amps does it put out at idle speed?

Your modern car can live in stop and go rush hour traffic all day long (with the A/C on) without draining the battery. The alt you buy for your Squarebird needs to have the same capability or you might end up buying this system twice.

Squarebirds are notorious for over heating. An electric fan will shed a lot more heat than the mechanical fan but it needs an adequate alt.

I don't like one-wire alt's because they don't produce power until the engine revs. They won't work with remote start, either.

Did you ever wonder how Remote Start knows when to quit cranking? A conventional alternator immediately produces 13.5-14.5 volts as soon as the engine turns. The remote start circuit sees this elevated 'charging voltage' and it quits cranking. If you have a one-wire alt, it won't produce voltage until the rpms go over 1,500. That's how it knows the engine is running because there is no key switch 'sense' wire.

Bottom line: Go get a regular alternator that produces at least 100-amps. I don't care what brand it is. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 06-06-2015, 10:54 AM
JamesBorisPerez JamesBorisPerez is offline
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Default Generator to alternator conversion

Very good information, I did install an electric fan and it eliminated the overheating problem I had while in stop an go traffic will driving in San Francisco (I go out to dinner and such).
I did read everything in the technical forum and the electrical principles between a Generator and Alternator. I'm going to take everyone's input into consideration and finalize what's the best approach. I currently don't have any issues with my electrical, but I want a augmented system since I also have a couple of stereo amps as well. Perhaps a member one day can post in the technical documents a comprehensive implementation guide, which is also not cost prohibitive.
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  #16  
Old 06-06-2015, 12:24 PM
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Electrical systems are always figured the same, even in your house. Simply put, the first statement about this in the National Electrical Code is that the supply MUST meet the demand. Then they de-rate ampacities to give a 20% safety factor in each branch circuit. Your car is no different except that car wiring is not hidden in walls, the environment vibrates and it is exposed to heat and harsh chemicals.

Start by adding all your accessories. (Everyone's car is different.) Consider battery losses when cold and 'sitting for days or weeks', trailer hauling, inverters, stereo systems, headlight upgrades, etc. Now look to the future and always consider this question, 'what do modern cars use?' If your system falls short you will be buying a bigger alternator very soon.

Never depend on the battery to deliver power that the alt should have produced. I tried running a 75-amp alt with an electric fan. During the Woodward Dream Cruise our cars are in a big parking lot for miles, all day long. It ends up where the electric fan cools the engine but the alt is too small to charge the battery AND run the fan at idle. So, the battery drains and I'm looking to get off Woodward so I can run the car at 40-mph to shed heat and charge the battery. Now, I have a 130-amp alt and all is very well.

Also consider the progression:
1955 T-birds had a 30-amp 6-volt gen that output 180 watts.
1956 T-birds had a 30-amp 12-volt gen that output 360 watts. (doubled the year before)
Alternators appeared, producing much more power at idle and low engine speeds.
1980's saw 75-amp alternators
1990's Fords came with 100 amps and now 130 amps is very common. Some alternators output 200 amps (200 X 12-v = 2,400 watts, a far cry from the original 180 watts).

I've never heard anyone say, '****, I wish I had bought a smaller alternator.'

Also consider the horsepower your new alt will need... 746 watts = 1 hp. 2,400 divided by 746 = 3.2 HP. <--this needs enough belt surface area or it will slip and scream. That's why new cars come with that wide serpentine belt with so many ribs. You can do the same with a double-groove pulley or a slightly larger diameter pulley. All the old pulleys (Ford and GM are interchangeable) fit new alternators if you use the spacer behind the pulley (it looks like a ring) then tighten the nut and lock washer. - Dave
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  #17  
Old 06-07-2015, 04:11 AM
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Default Generator to alternator conversion

I have gone through many of the threads, including this one, and compiled comments of Dave~simplyconnected, and John~ jopizz, regarding "Selecting The Right Alternator For Your Tbird". Dave went through my comments, added some, corrected some, and I just put it into the Technical Resource Library (TRL) for posterity. You will find it in the Engine section, Final sub-section with the Generator and Alternator information. I hope it will help ya'll in the future, when you decide you want to replace that generator with an alternator. Thanks, Dave and jopizz, for the help.
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  #18  
Old 08-31-2017, 11:20 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Default Generator to Alternator Conversion

I talked with Larry today, at Custom Replacement Automotive Products (C.R.A.P.) and he informed me that he has a new bracket available for the pre 1963 FE engines. It's not on the website, because he is having problems updating the C.R.A.P. website. With his permission, I'll attach his correspondence and also the pictures of the new bracket assembly. He also references a Summit Racing alternator, which he recommends. BTW, he has a late 60's model Mercury and Ford convertible, which he drives.
Here is his email he sent:
"I have attached photos of our 2 piece gen to alt conversion kit. This item is new and is not listed on our site. It is available in two versions, the first being raw unpainted steel ($109.00) and the 2nd being powder coated gloss black ($124.00). The small side bracket which allows you to mount an alternator on an early FE block is also steel and painted silver. The 2 pc allows you to use a Ford or GM standard size alternator. If you need more amperage we recommend an aftermarket alternator sold by Summit racing. Brand name Tuff Stuff in a Ford configuration Summit part number 7068. Of course we still sell the one piece stainless steel kit ($129.00) in polished version or black powder coated but it requires the use of a Ford 1st generation alternator, or an aftermarket alternator such as the Tuff Stuff mentioned above. If you have any questions feel free to contact me @ 815 634 8216. I am retiring now and will be putting up a new website and cutting back on development of new kits. I will still carry all the items I have listed now and a few extras that my existing website won't let me load. Some people have noted they are having trouble accessing my existing website due to using the latest Windows operating systems. Best to call in your orders and I can enter them for you. All prices plus shipping.

Larry Gueths
C.R.A.P.

Nyles
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  #19  
Old 10-02-2017, 04:45 AM
Djweaz Djweaz is offline
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I might be in the market for one of these. That is of course if this is a real company or a joke
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  #20  
Old 10-02-2017, 07:15 AM
p38fighter p38fighter is offline
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They are not. I have the new 2 piece unit. Not mounted yet but looks good.
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