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  #1  
Old 04-25-2016, 05:01 PM
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sidewalkman sidewalkman is offline
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Default Holley 4160

Hi Guys

How many of you are running a Holley on their 352? Mine came with one installed and other than having to replace the needle and seat it's been OK, but I ran the numbers off the carb and discovered it's a 450 CFM model. I still have the original in a box but it needs to be rebuilt (200.00 locally) and also read that the kickdown ongoing issues I'm having might be related to the carb as well.

I was reading that the lock down screw needs to be removed for automatic transmissions and there should be an adjustment and spring on the carb for the kickdown. I'm not sure though. Anyone else running it on their squarebird?
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South Delta, BC, Canada
1960 White T-Bird, PS, PB that's it
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:10 PM
Ford351c594 Ford351c594 is offline
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yes I am. it was installed on mine as well at the time I purchased it. unfortunately it is running fine so I can't relate to any of the issues you are having. I have had a stuck float that was fixed quickly with a tap on the bowl and it has not reoccurred in over a year. I however have all intentions if it ever gives me any issue to install and Edelbrock.
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  #3  
Old 04-25-2016, 09:26 PM
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DKheld DKheld is offline
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Scott,
Sorry the progress on mine to fix the fire damage has been slow but funny thing is I just about finished up this evening and have some pics.

I'm using the Holley 4160 (aluminum version). The original air cleaner works but not as well as with the original 4100 that came on the car.


So when I bought it the folks at Holley told me it was a good replacement carb for the 4100. It bolted on to the intake but the linkage hit the intake and wouldn't move.


They told me I could cut the bottom of the linkage off so that it missed the intake and wouldn't void the warranty (yes I have it in writing - )


Here it is at wide open throttle - make sure yours isn't hitting anything.


At the transmission linkage I had to install some washers under the linkage to make it miss the intake - only about 1/8 clearance but it works (this is also wide open throttle but not with the pedal pressed to the floor to pull the kickdown in). I was just holding the throttle open with my hand.


Overall view


My accelerator pedal rod is about 8 7/8


I had to straighten the accelerator linkage rod a small amount to make it longer plus drill a tiny hole in the end to put a cotter pin and washer behind the carb linkage - now measures 8 1/8 from where it connects to the carb from the pin at the linkage.


There is about 3/4 inch of threads showing on the kickdown linkage.

Also had to modify the air cleaner a bit because the linkage was hitting the air cleaner so it would not return to idle very well (lucky thing I have an old spare air cleaner to modify and can put my original in a box for later)


The snorkle just misses my PCV valve.


Not completely happy with it at the moment - sounds like the engine is really lean. Supposedly mine is a 600 CFM carb. Maybe the sound is just normal but has always been rich with the 4100 - I'll just have to see. Went through the works setting the points, timing, etc - no difference. Decent throttle response but I haven't had it out on the highway yet to check the kickdown response so all my linkage measurements may change.

I only have the standard wedge spacer under the carb (with gaskets). I have a rebuild kit for my 4100 and may just pull the Holley off if it doesn't improve on the highway and with a little running in.

Eric
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:46 AM
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sidewalkman sidewalkman is offline
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Hi Eric

Thanks for this, I've attached the picture of the locking screw on the carb. Do you still have yours in place, doesn't look like you do.

I'm sidetracked right now, the lines running to the PS Ram developed a leak, I tried to Teflon tape the threads, ended up stripping the fitting so new lines are ordered. I don't want to really do anything that requires starting it till the lines are back on. I've already puked a quart of PS fluid everywhere. I'll dial in the pedal linkage and rough in the rest as per the manual and see where that takes me. I'm going to try the carb without the locking screw as everything I have says remove it for automatics, unless the kickdown linkage attached directly to the throttle arm
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 4160.jpg (39.8 KB, 52 views)
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South Delta, BC, Canada
1960 White T-Bird, PS, PB that's it
Red Leather Interior!
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Old 04-26-2016, 10:25 AM
pbf777 pbf777 is offline
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The screw Holley states to remove is in order to allow the A.T. "kick-down" lever to operate on the carburetor linkage shaft. Allowing this lever motion, along with a cap-screw, threaded nut & return spring are intended for attachment & operation of the "kick-down" rod linkage which is used on C4 & C6 transmission applications. On these applications a single steel tube linkage attaches from the carburetor kick-down lever down to the transmission's lever.
This is not applicable in your installation, if you retain the C.O.M. transmission & factory linkage. Scott.
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  #6  
Old 04-26-2016, 04:17 PM
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sidewalkman sidewalkman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbf777 View Post
The screw Holley states to remove is in order to allow the A.T. "kick-down" lever to operate on the carburetor linkage shaft. Allowing this lever motion, along with a cap-screw, threaded nut & return spring are intended for attachment & operation of the "kick-down" rod linkage which is used on C4 & C6 transmission applications. On these applications a single steel tube linkage attaches from the carburetor kick-down lever down to the transmission's lever.
This is not applicable in your installation, if you retain the C.O.M. transmission & factory linkage. Scott.
Perfect, thanks. The instructions were rather vague.
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1960 White T-Bird, PS, PB that's it
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http://www.squarebirds.org/picture_g...ibrary/trl.htm
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