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  #11  
Old 02-03-2015, 08:09 PM
Dan.loeb Dan.loeb is offline
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so here is where I am at.

I found bad ground inside of the Distributor. Cleaned up the connection and now have full 12volts to coil. Next, I removed the brown wire from the starter switch then normally fed the coil since I no longer need it. I triple checked that I was at TDC on compression stroke and have the Distributor rotor pointing at number one cylinder on cap. I also ran a new wire from the ignition directly to positive on coil to remove the resistance wire. So at this time I have 2 wires on positive terminal of coil (Pertronix red and wire from ignition) and one wire on negative side of coil (Black lead from Pertronix). The magnetic sleeve is flush with the pick up as mentioned in the other posts.

Now here is the outcome. I turn the key and the car wants to start but as soon as the engine has a VERY low idle (very quiet) for 2 seconds the starter disengages and the car dies. I moved the distributor one way or the other, but then the car does not want to start at all. The spark plug wire and cap are in the right order.

At this time I have the vacuum advance hose going to carb just sitting on the port to carb. I need to pick up a clamp for it. (not sure if that would cause my problem).

As mentioned in the first post I have a new Edlebrock 1406, pertronix ignitor and pertronix flame thrower installed.

any other trouble shooting ideas
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  #12  
Old 02-03-2015, 08:46 PM
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What port on the Edelbrock do you have the hose to the vacuum advance. You should be using the full vacuum port (drivers side). That's what the original Ford carburetor used. I never use a clamp on the hose as long as it fits tight. Make sure you have all unused ports blocked off.

John
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2015, 11:11 PM
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Ok, you're almost there. Get your timing light out and time the distributor for ~6degrees BTDC. You can see where the timing marks are while starting. Your engine should start with this initial timing. Later, after your vacuum is straightened out you can add more advance.

A small amount of distributor turn makes a huge difference on the crank marks. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2015, 11:53 PM
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Dave, if the Pertronix is drawing 8 amps, how does that compare with stock ignition?

My real point is, if a car has the original generator and is at idle, is there enough power to run this ignition system?

or if a car has the lights on? or fan ?

John
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  #15  
Old 02-04-2015, 12:53 AM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Dan:
Sometimes when you make multiple changes at the same time it is worth while to backtrack and use a process of elimination.
Your scenario still sounds very similar to what I went through with the Petronix.
1. It may be worth while to throw the points back in and see if the car runs. Then you would know it is something with the Petronix pickup inside the distributor, plus it would eliminate the new carb as the problem. I wouldn't worry about changing the wires to the coil for the test run.
2. If the car does run with the points back in, then I would investigate the pickup again. The distributor shaft typically has shims located above the drive gear to set the end play of the shaft. If the shaft has excessive play, it could be possible for the shaft to raise or lower enough, when the engine is cranked, that this could throw it out of specs.
Let us know what you find.
Nyles
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  #16  
Old 02-04-2015, 03:14 AM
Dan.loeb Dan.loeb is offline
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Doing some thinking. I currently have a flame thrower 1.5 ohm coil installed on the car that came with the car. Since I do not have the resistance wire any more should I have a 3 ohm coil installed. Does it matter?
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  #17  
Old 02-04-2015, 03:24 AM
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Dan, Pertronix needs no resistor for the Flame Thrower. Somehow I lost you. What did you get by laying a spark plug on metal while cranking?

John, the 8-amps is mostly due to the Pertronix Flame Thrower coil. It produces a hotter spark than OEM and Pertronix suggests we open the plug gap +.005".

The electronics draw practically nothing. All they do is switch the coil on and off with a 'hall effect transistor'. Hall effect transistors use a magnet in close proximity to gate (fire) the transistor. Like mechanical points, this transistor is pulsing the coil to ground.

Solid state devices need nearly full voltage to work correctly, whereas points don't care at all, and will fire with six volts. This forces us to keep our battery up. Under normal operating conditions, your car is running (and charging) at 14 volts. The battery levels off at 12 when you turn the engine off. So, generator or alternator should make little difference as long as your battery holds a charge at about 12 volts.

I will always advocate for the alternator swap because your generator is only designed to output 360 watts of power when the rpms are high. Modern alternators output over 100amps or 1,200 watts. The real advantage is, alternator output at idle speeds. - Dave
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  #18  
Old 02-04-2015, 08:33 AM
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So let's get down to something basic here: ya gotta take a plug out, hook it to it's wire and lay it on the block or
manifold or something. Rig up a little jumper and crank the engine over and simply look at the quality of spark you see. If you can do it inside a garage with little light, all the better.

The spark should be nice and fat and you might even hear it. This is what you paid money to Pertronix for.

More fundamentally this is what any of us needs to be willing and able to do in the event the ol' car does not run. The car needs 3 things: compression, gas and spark. TBird, Ferrari or lawn mower. Do you have all 3?

John
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2015, 02:56 PM
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For car engines I take it a step further by pulling the coil wire and connecting a plug and wire to the coil tower. Like John said, lay your spark plug on the block or intake manifold, crank the engine and you should see (and hear) four distinct zaps per engine revolution. They should be pretty blue, not orange in color.

If you get that, work your way down, testing a plug from the distributor.

If you don't get a spark at all, try grounding your coil body and distributor body.

You said your car ran for seconds. Pour about two ounces of fuel down the carb and see if it runs better and longer. If so, you may have a fuel/air problem.

Check compression and above all, check your oil pressure. - Dave
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2015, 03:32 PM
Dan.loeb Dan.loeb is offline
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I am going to do some further trouble shooting tonight. I am thinking I might have the distributor installed at TDC on the compression stroke, but I might have installed the timing chain on TDC on the exhaust stroke. When I installed the timing chain I had the heads off and installed at TDC, not knowing if it was exhaust or compression. anyone think this could be my problem? Before I go ripping apart the front cover again I am going to do my normal testing to make sure I have spark.
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