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  #1  
Old 01-13-2015, 10:50 PM
Nick Nick is offline
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Default Running colder now

It's been a long time since I've been on the sight, but I used a lot of the information I read here. Since I bought my 60 Tbird 3 years ago it has run hot. New radiators, water pumps, new engine, nothing seemed to help. I took the old 352 out that we couldn't flush clean, and put in a rebuilt 390. I put in a Griffin radiator with electric fans. I even up graded the fans to pull more air. Only slightly helped. The 390 was a 1965 from Phoenix Engines and I used the pulleys for that engine. It ran hotter. The griffin people said I needed pulleys that were 25% overdrive. That's what the stock 390 pulleys I had on where. My original pulleys on the 352 were 1.06 to 1. When I put those pulleys on the engine it ran slightly cooler. When I looked at March pulleys they were .90 to 1. That is what the service manual says are stock for a 1960. I had a new water pump pulley made at a ratio of .93 to 1. It runs about 20 degrees cooler than before. I also have a 700 R4 od trans from Phoenix Transmissions. Headers are Sanderson and fit like a glove. I finished off the exhaust with 2-1/2 inch pipe. The brake booster was moved from under the dash to the engine compartment with a chevy dual master cylinder and front discs brakes from Thunderbird Ranch (thank you John), and a 3:50 open rearend. Took out the Ford air and put in a vintage aire. I also used info from the sight to put a tach in place of the clock. I wouldn't say all of this was easy, but it works. We also had to make custom lowers, the aluminum pieces that go under the dash to accommodate the aire unit. Thank you to everyone who loves these old cars like I do, and thank you for your help.
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2015, 11:12 AM
ayrwoof ayrwoof is offline
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Join Date: Apr 4 2005
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ayrwoof
Talking cool

for Any cooling system to work , ya gotta have Pressure under the cap.
if none is there look at the thing the cap fastens to first , its brass .
and if good look at hoses ,clamp off heater hoses to see if pressure builds..
no change , See if lower Hose sucks Shut on hard acceleration.
(with out a nice brass wire coiled up inside ) they will suck the hose
closed. (this eliminates water pump speed ) as problem .IS the upper hose
really hot ? put ac stick thermomiter in water to check . My set up is
a 64 ford 3 core rad (a good one ) i have six blade fan , and the correct
12370-a ? vaccuum advance because timing is everything in the heat
department. i had added alum valve covers and the 1966 ford alum intake ,.
so far okay . But i topped it with a mcculloch blower and fresh 4100
carb , so heat went up a little. underneath the bumper their is a leaf
shelf and only two verry rusty spot welds held it . it's on shelf .
next i added a 4" alum air dam to rad yoke. it's on a brass hinge ,
and spring loaded to drop at road speed . "this wasthe biggest
change . " so far at 100 deg outside at even 30 mph its cool
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  #3  
Old 01-17-2015, 08:07 PM
Nick Nick is offline
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Default Double Check check check

Old overflow tank was tossed, cracked at the intake flange. New one was purchased. New cap, from Griffin, lower hose has a spring in it. It was flowing so fast it would push the air in the overflow tank into the cooling system. You could hear it bubbling in the radiator every time I stopped. With this new pulley it isn't doing that anymore. After 45 minutes of driving, in town and on the highway, I pulled it in the garage. It only goes to 175 degree's at the end of the trip. That's better than the 210 I was getting with the other pulley. It was at 210 driving in the 60 degree's.
I guess what lead me down this path was Griffin. They said I needed to be at 125% over the crank pulley at the water pump. When I did that, it ran really hot. I'm pretty old, and even though I envy you having a super fast car, I just need mine to get me around these here mountains in Colorado. I hate having to pull over to cool down, when my friends with their Caddy's, Chevy's and Studebaker's are grumbling about the FE running hot again. Maybe I'll be the first one up the mountain now?
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  #4  
Old 01-17-2015, 09:46 PM
DKheld's Avatar
DKheld DKheld is offline
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Default

Nick,

Glad to hear your cooling problems are solved - I hope you are first up the hill.

Didn't realize the Vinatge Air systems required you to modify the under dash trim - that's bad. I'll have to re-read their instructions and see if it mentions that. I'm adding factory A/C but it would still be nice to have that info before you started the project. Thanks for the info.

I replaced the engine in mine recently too and had trouble with one of the standard exhaust manifolds cracking so nice to know about the Sanderson headers.

Hope you can post some pictures of you car.
Eric

Here's my new engine....
with a few mods and changes
and I'm actually running a different fan now (flex fan).
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2015, 09:54 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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Default

This is a long shot, but I am going to put in my 2 cents. You got my attention when you said "It was flowing so fast" that got my attention. By any chance did you remove the thermostat and leave it out? What a lot of people do not understand is that a thermostat has 2 purposes. One is to control coolant temperature and the other is to control the flow of coolant. It can actually act as an orifice. In a clean cooling system, without the thermostat, the coolant will flow so fast it does not have the dwell time in the radiator to actually cool.
I'll probably get some feedback on this one, but in the old days when guys would pull the thermostat, the cooling system was typically already restricted, due to corrosion etc, so if they were lucky it actually helped to pull it. Heat exchangers, which is what a radiator is, can be a bit tricky.
Nyles
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  #6  
Old 03-02-2015, 01:08 PM
ayrwoof ayrwoof is offline
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Join Date: Apr 4 2005
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ayrwoof
Red face Get a temperature gun

[quote=Nick;89373]Old overflow tank was tossed, cracked at the intake flange. ect .
take the engine temperature with the infared gun AS the engine warms up from cold start . and Keep track of head temp at the front of the head verses the back of the head , here is why ; IF the head gasket is on backwards THE BACK OF THE HEAD will heat up a whole lot quicker since no water is flowing back there OR the head gasket weep holes leak a large
amount of water . I had ran in to this before with one FE motor .
Forever and ever the big openings go to the back on a fe ford .
Make sure vacuum advance and spring weighted advance works correctly . these cars can run on med grade fuel .
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2015, 01:14 PM
ayrwoof ayrwoof is offline
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ayrwoof
Talking

i agree , check the simple stuff
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