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  #441  
Old 06-29-2015, 08:41 AM
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You'll be surprised how much that old cast iron intake weighs.
I finally ended up using an engine hoist to pull up with and a dead blow hammer to break it loose. Mine was leaking at the back of the intake. Ran much better after replacing the gaskets.

I installed a PCV system on my old engine too. Never was able to capture all the blow-by even replacing all the valve stem seals etc. Still had a little smoke from the oil cap. Finally replaced the original filtered oil cap with a closed one that had a tube then ran a hose from the cap to the air filter housing. Still leaked a little because it was a metal to metal seal but best I could come up with. Soon after that the rear main seal went bad and I ended up replacing the engine with a rebuilt '63ish that has a proper PCV system.

FYI - Ford ( Motorcraft ) still makes a group 29 battery !!!!! (but I'll admit it doesn't look as cool as the old style)



Looking good at the show !!!


Eric
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  #442  
Old 06-29-2015, 11:09 AM
Daleo56 Daleo56 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
You'll be surprised how much that old cast iron intake weighs.
I finally ended up using an engine hoist to pull up with and a dead blow hammer to break it loose. Mine was leaking at the back of the intake. Ran much better after replacing the gaskets.

FYI - Ford ( Motorcraft ) still makes a group 29 battery !!!!! (but I'll admit it doesn't look as cool as the old style)

Looking good at the show !!!

Eric
I wanted the biggest battery possible since the bottom of my tray is rusted. I bought a new one and painted it to match the car only to find out they weld in. Ugh.

I ordered a set of 1960 For Thunderbird intake removal tools from Amazon

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  #443  
Old 06-29-2015, 01:52 PM
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Oh, and apparently I need to raise the engine off the motor mounts to pull the pan? Really?
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  #444  
Old 06-29-2015, 03:21 PM
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Yep! Remove the starter motor and lift the engine. You may need to put the crank position on TDC, otherwise the crank throws will interfere with pan removal. Watch carefully, that you don't damage your radiator by lifting too high. If you are raising from the bottom, make sure your hood is open. I prefer lifting from the top using a cherry picker.

As said, once the pan is loose, unbolt the oil pump pickup. All this work is so much easier when the engine is on a stand. - Dave
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  #445  
Old 06-29-2015, 03:23 PM
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Tim:
I seem to remember that some of the guys on here cut out the old battery tray and just bolted the new one in place. May be easier on the install.
Nyles
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  #446  
Old 06-29-2015, 03:33 PM
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Yep.

That also means draining the cooling system to pull the radiator hoses loose so the engine can raise up. May want to pull the fan or keep a close eye on it.....

If your car still has the transmission cooler line clamp attached to the passenger side of the engine you'll need to keep an eye on that to make sure the lines don't bind too much.

IIRC a 2x4 block under each mount will have it high enough - plus the crank has to be rotated to the right position for the pan to clear the crank. The manual says 'Position the crankshaft so that the counter-balance will clear the pan" or something like that. You just have to look in there and see - no real position given for the crank like TDC etc

AND - getting it out is the easy part - wait until you try to put it back in without moving the gasket or hitting the nice new bead of sealant you just put on there.

But that nice low engine gives the car that distinctive low slung charm -


Eric
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  #447  
Old 06-29-2015, 09:15 PM
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I was going to clean and replace the pan and gasket while I was doing the intake manifold. Now I am regretting even thinking of doing it
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  #448  
Old 07-01-2015, 12:29 AM
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Hello again everyone. Since the intake is coming off I am going to run hard fuel line and get everything back to stock. This the not the original carb right? I see that it may be a mid-60's replacement.

D0PF-9510-U

http://www.mustangtek.com/4160/holley4160.html

If it is not original I will either find the right one or just use my regular Edelbrock 1406 that I use on all of my other cars.



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  #449  
Old 07-01-2015, 05:23 AM
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Tim, as I recall, a D0PF-9510-U tells you that it is a D=1970's part and the 0 tells you it is a 1970 part. If it was me, I would just put an Edelbrock 1406 on it and be done with it. I have one on my '59 and it is works great!
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  #450  
Old 07-01-2015, 07:49 AM
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Mine has the FORD 4100.
Looks like your rubber seal is missing from the air cleaner and it is rubbing metal against metal? Been meaning to find a new seal for my air cleaner because it's getting a little brittle. Its a square seal and will be "fun" to find the right size. You could probably get away with a slightly oversize round one. It helps to have it if you get caught in the rain - that hood scoop funnels the water right to the carb.
The fuel filter is also little expensive on the 4100 when you find one. No longer made - special application - screws into the 4100.

Sorry - bad pic of the carb - was just snapping the freshly painted valve covers a few years back.


Eric
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