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  #21  
Old 01-15-2015, 02:05 AM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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Will start pulling engine today, yesterday I noticed that the engine contact (anchors) lift points are missing any suggestions where to connect the engine balancer puller to the engine at or a safe way how to connect with them missing, thanks.
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  #22  
Old 01-15-2015, 05:50 AM
63Tealbird 63Tealbird is offline
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Cool !F E engine removal

Pull carburater replace with lift plate then you should be fine
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  #23  
Old 01-15-2015, 06:38 AM
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I'm not sure what information you are after. I am also not sure exactly what you plan for this overhaul. Rebuilding a Ford FE engine is NOT the same as Chevrolet or Chrysler engines. In particular, FE oiling can be confusing to mechanics that have never worked on one. A very common error shows up when someone gets ready to fire the engine up and they have no oil pressure. FE pushrods are solid and NO oil goes through them because rocker arm shafts oil the top of each head.

So tell us what all you will do with your engine. Do you have a good engine machine shop available to you?

There are many ways to lift an engine. I prefer using chains because they do not stretch. I screw in bolts with washers going through the chain, and tightened down. I use opposite corners of the heads with a spreader bar to clear the carburetor.

Others prefer using straps, usually wrapped around the exhaust manifolds. Still others use a plate that sits where the carburetor is. It is a good idea to remove your carburetor because it is so fragile and expensive to replace.

If you have not seen my engine build, I suggest you look through this site. Once you are there, click on the topics that are underlined -->CLICK HERE

You mentioned the damper pulley. You will need a puller to remove it. I made my own by welding nuts onto short pieces of steel. Click on this picture for the full story-->


Before dropping the engine in the car, I run it in a test stand. I go through about five gallons of gas and lots of heat/cool down cycles to give it a good test. If anything is wrong it will show up during my testing. Fixing the engine on a stand is far easier than pulling it out of the car again. - Dave
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  #24  
Old 01-15-2015, 10:04 AM
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DKheld DKheld is offline
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As far as I know many of the older US engines didn't ever have lifting anchors or points. None on my old British cars either

(like these?)


Similar to Dave's suggestion I used longer grade 8 bolts and washers in the head with a "load leveler" attachment on my engine hoist. It came in very handy.



I know many folks use them but I just never have liked the loop you can install on the 4 small intake bolts for the carb. With my luck I would pull one of the carb studs out and ruin the intake.



Hope that helps.
Eric
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  #25  
Old 01-15-2015, 10:51 AM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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I would NEVER use a carb plate for a Ford FE. It is just to heavy for me to be comfortable lifting all of that on 4 bolts, but I know guys do it. I removed my engine with an engine crane and no help, but first removed the intake, heads, water pump and starter which lightened the load considerably so I could move it by myself. It was fully assembled for the install and I had 2 helpers which was necessary to align everything and not scratch any paint.

No matter how you do it, work slowly and safely!!

BTW - I used the crane to lift off the intake and heads too - lifting 80+ pounds of intake from the engine is not for my back!

Last edited by Joe Johnston : 01-15-2015 at 11:58 AM.
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  #26  
Old 01-15-2015, 11:11 AM
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Ford routinely removes manufacturing tools that are not part of the function of the cars because engines rarely get pulled, extra metal means extra weight and the plant only needs 2,000 sets for in-process vehicles. Lifting eyes are among these tools. Y-Blocks were hoisted with two giant claws that hooked around the ram's horn exhaust manifolds that rise so far, they nearly touch the M/C.

I like your tools, Eric. Your hoist will safely lift any engine.
X2 on the carb plate. Many manifolds are aluminum and the carb studs are 1/4". That's not enough margin for error when swinging a 650-lb engine around in my book.

When I'm working under the car aligning motor mounts, I sure don't want any surprises or unexpected motion from 'marginal' tools. - Dave
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  #27  
Old 01-16-2015, 12:31 AM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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Was able to get everything disconnected just have the motor mounts to loosen to pull, have the alternator, powersteering pump, waterpump and radoiator out, plan is to replace the following gaskets, valve covers, heads, intake manifolds, oil pan, rear main seal, freeze plugs etc....install new oil pump, power steering pump and lines waterpump, motor mounts......overall replace everything that I can, thanks for advice on pulling the motor will connect the chains to the heads with longer bolts
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  #28  
Old 01-16-2015, 03:19 AM
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I strongly urge you to change your timing chain set. Summitracing.com has a very nice one for a decent price:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g6608-9
This is a true double roller chain set that will last four times longer than your original chain.

When you install it, advance your cam four degrees by using the '4A' slot. - Dave
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CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build.

"We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?"
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  #29  
Old 01-16-2015, 02:32 PM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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I have a new timing chain and gear set have been planning this for awhile hope I have everything covered, still need to get a Ford style powering steering pump I have all the lines already
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  #30  
Old 01-23-2015, 12:46 PM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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Pulled the engine Thursday nite without any issues, will now be easier to change out the brake booster and the master cylinder will also clean up the engine bay, thanks for all the advice will have some questions once I start replacing the gaskets
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