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  #11  
Old 01-10-2015, 12:35 PM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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John thanks for the part#, simplyconnected thanks for the advice will follow I have access to a lift so that will be a big help
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  #12  
Old 01-10-2015, 12:55 PM
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DK good pics, pulling engine because I have a oil leak seems to be from the rear up by the intake plus the oil pan gasket is pretty wet, the motor mounts are finished and the waterpump is leaking everything seems to be original parts, will also pressure wash and paint/detail the engine
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  #13  
Old 01-10-2015, 01:20 PM
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Are you planning on doing a complete rebuild? If not there are certain things I recommend doing. Remove and replace freeze plugs, core plugs and clean out cooling passages; replace rear main seal; replace oil pump and shaft; replace timing chain and gears. If you are planning on having the heads redone this is the time to do it. These are things that are a lot easier to do with the engine out. Buy the complete gasket set rather than buying them individually. It's about $80 but it includes everything you will need.

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  #14  
Old 01-10-2015, 01:52 PM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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Good advice on the freeze plugs I have the gasket kit as well as the oil pump and timing chain/gear, the plan is to do it right the first time
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2015, 08:19 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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The intake manifold has to be sealed with grey RTV silicone; the cork set will fail. Use composite gaskets for the valve covers and oil pan.
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2015, 09:36 AM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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I have the Edelbrock composite valve cover gaskets and a complete FelPro gasket kit not sure what the gaskets are made of the box has yet to be open and its all out at the garage an hour away
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2015, 04:21 PM
Yadkin Yadkin is offline
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Most of the kits I've seen have cork. It's useless as a gasket material IMO.

The Edelbrock composite has worked well for me for the valve covers. These engines are notorious for flooding that area with too much oil. I've installed restrictors in the galleries to my heads, reducing the oil flow, and they still flood, and cork leaked badly.

Part of the problem involves the OEM sheet metal valve covers. They deflect badly at a mere percentage of the recommended bolt torque, even with spreaders installed.

Use the Edlebrock composite with spreaders, no sealant.
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  #18  
Old 01-11-2015, 05:57 PM
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I respectfully disagree with Steve.
My 'Y-Block' valve covers simply have two nuts holding them down, right on top of the 'dome':

These engines have solid lifters so lash adjustments must be made periodically.

The gaskets are cork and they do not leak if sealant is used.

FE valve covers have bolts around the flange. This offers a much more even pressure if done right. In fact, cork or composite both work if installed properly. Originally, the idea of composite was to re-use the gasket. We used to put two composite gaskets on each valve cover with nothing between the gaskets, but sealer was used on the metal surfaces. This worked, but how many folks pull their rocker covers off periodically?

If your sheet metal 'pans' are distorted from someone cranking on the bolts, pound the bolt holes straight with a hammer before starting.

Cork works well on the oil pan and rocker covers if it isn't squashed-out and distorted. Prepare all the metal surfaces by degreasing with lacquer thinner, then spread a very thin layer of Permatex Black on the metal. I also spread a very thin layer of Permatex Black on both sides of the cork gasket to fill any imperfections. Let the Permatex cure or 'skin over' before assembly.
Put Loctite (blue, not red) on the bolts and run them down about finger tight, then go back over and put an extra half-turn on each bolt. Done. Let the gasket do the sealing, but it must not be torn apart from being crushed.

FE intake manifold gaskets are hardest to set. They continue to travel down hours after the bolts are tight. It's a bad fastening design by Ford. When you set the intake manifold, put Permatex around the water holes (only) and leave out (omit) the block gaskets in the very front and rear. Those pieces tend to inhibit the intake from descending all the way down.
I start by cleaning the front and rear metal surfaces with lacquer thinner, then spread Permatex on them. There will be a gap that you fill-in with more Permatex, later. Now, make sure your lifters are set and the sheet metal pan is in place:



Set the gaskets and intake manifold in place and put the distributor in the hole to help align the intake. Start tightening intake manifold bolts (with flat washers) but not all the way, spreading from the center bolts to the outside edges. The bolts are supposed to slide up the manifold as the manifold descends. I usually give the bolt heads a sideways rap with my hammer to introduce a little vibration. In a few minutes, the manifold will be down more. When the manifold is down all the way, tighten the bolts and fill the front and rear gaps with Permatex Black.

Now, I assume the oil pan is on. Add engine oil (I use the distributor opening), and prime the oil pump intermediate shaft while you watch oil come out the rocker arms.

When these engines were built in Dearborn Engine Plant, they made 500 per shift, all good engines that did not leak and their intake manifolds fit perfectly. My FE overhaul doesn't leak oil at all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kB8X...ature=youtu.be

You should be ok with Edelbrock gaskets. They sell quality stuff. - Dave
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  #19  
Old 01-12-2015, 04:42 PM
jhuebner jhuebner is offline
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Will follow advise on setting intake gaskets, I no longer have the original valve covers, I have the Ford Cobra LeMans valve covers and with the cork I had no issue with leaks, I have a set of new cork and composite waiting to install, the hardest issue seems to be getting all the right RTV over here in Germany
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  #20  
Old 01-12-2015, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhuebner View Post
...the hardest issue seems to be getting all the right RTV over here in Germany
I did my whole engine in Permatex Ultra Black, as pictured. No issues at all.

This stuff is amazing. Back in the day we used varnish, Permatex #2 (that never hardened) and Permatex #1 (that did harden). Ford made gaskets out of RTV on many engine parts, like Escort oil pans, with no cork or paper, since the 1980's. Our sealing choices are much broader and they work better now. - Dave
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