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  #11  
Old 12-09-2014, 04:02 PM
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I should have read his entire post. Certainly if the caps show signs of corrosion I would check them. I wouldn't take them apart just to plasti-guage them though.

John
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  #12  
Old 12-10-2014, 10:00 AM
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Default My guess is dirty and worn

So maybe the thing to do while I am there, is to pick a rod bearing that is in down position and pop off the cap and inspect it to see what info it may give me. That way I am not rotating the engine yet and can see the condition of a bearing that has been setting in a cesspool of oil, water, etc. If it has rust or extreme wear or it's looks good, I can at least know what to expect from the others. My guess is dirty and worn. The water seemed to be on the bottom of the pan and was low enough that the crank @ BDC was still out of the water. At the same time, condesation may have been enough to rust more than I expected. Clean and oil and replace the bearing and cap. No fowl.
From what I am getting out of the shop manual. The engine is unbolted @ the mounts. Just the two side mounts? (Good time to inspect the mounts as well). Lift about an inch and blocked. I do not have an engine lift. Where might you suggest the lift point be? (352) The pan and pump are removed and reassembled at the same time. Thoughts on permatex sealant w/ the pan gasket? If so the blue or black? I assume the factory never used a sealer. My pan gasket is cork. Upon reassembly, fit the pan loose and bring up to factory specs on torque,(What is that #?, I have yet to find it. I figure around 12# as a guess) working from the inside out. Let's have a cold one. If there is an obvious that I am missing, just let me know. You folks are the best. OBTW, I had my first t-bird dream last night.
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2014, 10:39 AM
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Yes, the motor mount is held to the cross member by one bolt. There is a flat spot near the front of the block on each side. It is just next the oil filter on the driver side. That is what I use when I jack it up. Be careful of the radiator hoses if they are still on. You will be forcing those without the radiator moving. You will need to unbolt the oil pump and drop it in the pan to get clearance. I use black permatex to hold the gasket to the pan. I don't use any between the gasket and block. The torque specs are on page 1-65 of your manual. 12-15 is correct.

John
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  #14  
Old 12-10-2014, 11:06 AM
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Once you get her on the road, there are many more T-bird dreams in your future. It's simply a fun car that turns heads.

I would use a cherry picker to lift the engine from the top. You need to put the car up on good jack stands and off the wheels first. You can use just about any intake manifold or exhaust manifold bolt holes with longer bolts for your chains. Even though you are only lifting, use two chains. Some of our guys lift from the bottom by using the damper pulley. It works, but I don't like it. Either way, pay close attention to your radiator so the fan/hoses/engine don't poke a hole in it. ALWAYS raise the hood so you don't put the air cleaner or carb stud through it.

Give the car a good shake before going under there because your life depends on it.

I line the floor with cardboard first. It gets you off the cold ground and it absorbs any liquids that might leak. When soiled, simply throw it away and put down some new. Get one of those twisted bulbs for your trouble light. They don't get hot, won't 'flash out' when dropped and they put out serious light.

The bottom halves of your bearing inserts get the most wear. You will see where the tin is gone and copper is showing through. This is typical for a worn FE bearing. Look for any scoring or taper. See if little pieces of 'stuff' are embedded in your bearing. Seriously, if I saw that I would pull the engine and overhaul it, especially if I knew it was original with high miles.

I use Permatex (Black) in the big pressurized can for the whole engine. For cork gaskets, I spread a THIN layer on both sides and let it 'skin over' or cure completely. I also clean the metal mating surfaces with lacquer thinner, then a thin layer of Black, for a good seal. The idea is to fill any small imperfections but still leave that elastic coating. Many times, cork gaskets come off in one piece because they aren't 'glued' in and cleanup is much easier than the first time.

I don't mash my gaskets. The secret is in using LockTite blue (not red). 12-ft/lbs sounds light but it could distort and break your gasket in places. When you see the gasket 'snug up' and you feel a little resistance on your ratchet, I give about 1/2-turn and done. Let the sealant do it's job and let the Loctite hold the bolt. Loctite won't work on grease so clean the bolt and threaded hole. If a little sealant goes in the hole, that's ok.

Make sure you clean your pan and pickup tube down to the steel. Carefully inspect everything you find at the bottom. If you find little nylon pieces, they could be from your cam's timing sprocket. Change it before starting your engine.

Back in the day, non-detergent oil was the 'standard' and folks used shellac for gaskets. Polymers were not discovered for many years later. I have seen Y-block valve covers completely mold a huge cake of dirt when removed. Others on this forum, had their oil pickup screens totally filled with caked-on dirt which starved the pump for oil and caused a major overhaul. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 12-10-2014, 12:01 PM
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I hate to say this but... you may need to raise the engine much higher than one inch.

That inch, is when the timing marks are at TDC. Otherwise, the crankshaft counterweights may be in your way. John is right about the oil pump. It needs to be unbolted before you actually pull the pan. Also. the pump holds the intermediate drive shaft up, so that may come down with the pump. When you reassemble, make sure you put the 'spring washer' at the top of the shaft. It's there to hold the driveshaft down when you pull the distributor.

Take lots of pictures as you go. - Dave
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  #16  
Old 12-10-2014, 06:28 PM
The Arkansas Traveler The Arkansas Traveler is offline
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Default Thank you all so much...

Thank you all so much for all the great words of wisdom. You guys make my day! I'll make ya proud, I promise.
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  #17  
Old 12-11-2014, 02:25 PM
The Arkansas Traveler The Arkansas Traveler is offline
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Default MIA pages or 1960 Thunderbird Shop Manual lite

So I set down w/ the 1960 Thunderbird Shop Manual that came w/the car. I've been hunting the spec sheet on the engine for a while now. Usually this data is at the beginning or the end of the chapter it pertains to in my other manuals. My manual ends @ 1-62 engine and pick up again @ 2-9 ignition. Shame too, the manual hardly has seen use. Time to order the full verson. Wish that I knew this yesterday as I was ordering a new fuel tank, sending unit, pipe grommet to go w/ it.Forward!
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2014, 02:42 PM
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You can download a digital copy from various sites and not have to wait for a paper copy to be mailed. I find it much more convenient than having to constantly page through the book and get it all smudged up.

John
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  #19  
Old 12-11-2014, 02:46 PM
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Default Water in the oil pan

Russell, look at this Thread to Geoffrey in Malta. I told him how to order a .pdf copy from a website. Here is the link and it is my post # 17.

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