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  #1  
Old 10-03-2014, 06:01 PM
HooliganUK HooliganUK is offline
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Default Overheating

I have had for a brief time coolant coming out of the overflow pipe. I thought maybe it's me overfilling the tank. Last week the temp gauge started moving up and down rather quickly, when I was stationary it would go up, when moving it would start going back down. I assume this was due to cool air being forced in under the hood. Any suggestions where I should start, maybe new Thermostat?

Thanks.

Steve.
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2014, 06:39 PM
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Default Overheating

The first thing you should check is the fluid level in the expansion tank. It is only supposed to be about one third full as I recall. The idea is for there to be enough room in that tank to allow the heated coolant to rise without overflowing out the drainage tube. If it is to full, you may want to draw some out. After that, depending on how long it has been since the radiator was flushed, you might want to do that. flush it really well, and refill it with the appropriate amount of coolant/water combination. Or check the thermostat next and see if it might need replaced.
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2014, 07:07 PM
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Your car is naturally going to run hotter standing still then moving. You have no air going through the radiator at idle and your fan is at it's slowest speed. How high is your gauge reading. If it's more than 2/3 over toward Hot then you may be overheating. The gauges are not very accurate. As Ray suggested your overflow tank should not be overfilled. Coolant should be at the very bottom of the tank when cold. A number of things can cause overheating; a clogged radiator or block is the most common problem for older cars. I recommend getting a digital thermometer and measuring different parts of the engine block and radiator to get an accurate reading of the temperature.

John
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2014, 11:15 PM
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Cool

Steve John and Ray have made some very good suggestions. I had a similar problem with my 60 as it over heated when waiting to get into a car show. Blew a lot of out the expansion tank and of course onto the asphalt . When I was driving home noticed the temp gauge up and down.

Took it into get an oil change and had them do a complete rad flush which when watching the old crap come out through the clear plastic tube was amazed. Too many years without looking after the coolant Since then no problems Sooo if you can't remember the last time it was done or don't know if it has been done probably a good idea. Like your plate number
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Old 10-04-2014, 02:58 AM
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Default

I'm with Dan as I also totally agree with John's and Ray's suggestions.

Now for my two cents... At idle, your water pump is not moving coolant. As John said, when your car is stopped, the only air going through the radiator is from the draw of a slow fan, which ain't much.

Dan touched on a VERY important point, 'lack of maintenance'. Good, name-brand antifreeze contains three essential ingredients, water pump lube, anti-corrosion/anti-rust agent, and glycol (which lowers freezing and raises boiling points).

Here's the deal... If you leave antifreeze in your system too long, the pump lube goes away and the phosphoric acid neutralizes as it eats rust. The only thing left is anti-freeze. The affects corrode your head gaskets (because they are steel) and your core plugs. This all happens silently and without notice until your cooling system starts getting hot.

It takes years, but our engines are fifty years old! When the water passages rust open in your head gaskets, the rear cylinders get very little or no water because flow takes the path of least resistance. The core plugs may rust through and start to leak as well.

Remove the core plugs and use a garden hose to flush out your block. Any other method will not flush as well. I use brass core plugs.

If you still have overheating issues after the block flush and you know your pump and radiator flow well, the head gaskets must be changed.

Also, change your DOT3 brake fluid every three years. - Dave
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:58 AM
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I'm partial to coolant flushes that use an additive with clear water, then you drive the car a significant distance. Then you flush repeatedly until all the junk comes out. I did that to my 05 Mustang at 110,000 miles and even the overflow tank is clean.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:24 PM
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Is it possible that the core plugs for Squarebirds are not available on Rockauto? I have only fount this set on Mac's:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_th...8-1958-66.html
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:28 PM
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And regarding flushing the radiator - is it worth giving the radiator for a chem flush to a 'specialized' company or the flush using the available radiator-flushing additives advised earlier does more-less the same job?
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:36 PM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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Usually the shops here in the US use stronger chemicals that will dissolve build up better than what you can do yourself. They also pressure test and repair leaks afterwards too. Really clogged radiators require the removal of the tanks and a rod pushed through the tubes to force the build up out of the core. Guess it all depends on how clogged your radiator is.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock&Roll Firebird View Post
Is it possible that the core plugs for Squarebirds are not available on Rockauto? I have only fount this set on Mac's:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_th...8-1958-66.html
They are available from Rock Auto. They are listed under Engine-Cylinder Head Plug.

John
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