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  #11  
Old 09-22-2014, 03:59 PM
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Just uploaded by Hollywood Hot Rods Looks totally awesome DeLuxe!
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  #12  
Old 09-23-2014, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.loeb View Post
...My question for you guys is... Was it the head gasket that caused the antifreeze to pour into the cylinders and If i were to send out the heads to the shop should anything else be done to them that would not break my wallet?..

This picture looks odd. Someone squished a 16x9 picture into 4x3, giving you oblong cylinders.

Do you want an honest answer? I would NOT send those heads out. It's apparent to me that something is warped, causing a head gasket leak. These are 1962 cast iron heads with broken bolts. If you spend a bunch of money to shave them straight, put new hardened exhaust seats and new valves in, and possibly do a Viton valve seal job, you still end up with cast iron heads.

Look closely at your cylinder bores. If they are smooth, you need to put a crosshatch back in with 250 sand paper. You can do this by hand if you go in a 45 degree pattern both ways and bear down. This will stop oil from burning.

Next, I would measure the bores. Call Edelbrock and see if you have enough space to accommodate a pair of Edelbrock FE aluminum heads. They're already machined, already have stainless valves, bronze guides, Viton seals and helicoiled holes. They transfer heat four times faster than cast iron and they shed lots of weight. Simply buy across-the-counter and bolt them on.

Spending any money on your cast iron heads is putting good money after bad. Also, I didn't hear you say anything about the possibility that one of your heads is cracked.

That's my suggestion. - Dave
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2014, 10:28 AM
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I respectfully disagree with Dave regarding a head gasket leak. When you remove the head from the block the anti-freeze that's left in the head will spill out. Depending on the angle that the head was removed it can either spill on the ground or go into the cylinders. Most times when I remove heads from a running car the same thing happens. A head gasket leak would be evident by corrosion on the cylinder walls and on the top of the pistons which would wash away some of the carbon. I don't see that on yours. I do agree with Dave that aluminum heads are the way to go. I would bite the bullet regarding cost and invest in them rather than pay a machine shop to redo yours. If cost is an issue you can certainly drill the broken bolts out yourself and retap them, do a valve job if the seats are not too worn, replace the valve seals and the car will probably run just fine. You will need to use a lead additive to protect the valve seats. Without knowing your budget it's hard to give advice on which way to go.

John
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  #14  
Old 09-23-2014, 12:30 PM
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Dan, in this business of restoring cars, you need to use all your senses and take hundreds of pictures.

We only know information from only one engine picture. I see a liquid around the lifters that looks rather brownish-orange. I also see a yellowish residue around cylinders #7 & 8. I would like to see the under side of the head that came from this deck. I would also like to see the intake manifold gasket and the old head gasket.

We also need to know more about why you decided to tear it down. If your engine ran with antifreeze in the oil (witnessed by the orange-ish liquid) you need to clean it out or your bearings will be shot. Take this seriously.

Of course, coolant will spill when the heads and intake come apart, they are both full of antifreeze. But that brownish orange stuff raises big red flags to me. If your oil pan is full of it, you need to remove the other head and clean your whole engine. Take your oil pan off.

I hope this was caught in time. If it were me, I would pull the engine and put it on a stand. I would take a few bearing caps off and look. If any scoring is evident on the crankshaft bearings the engine cannot run until the crank is 'cleaned up' and new bearing inserts are installed.

I hate two things, doing a job over and buying unnecessary parts. Both eat money. Buy one 'Full Set' of quality name-brand gaskets (like FEL-PRO Part #FS8554PT) and do the job right the first time so you don't need to do it again.

You already know my opinion regarding the heads:

Click on the picture to get Amazon's price of $750/ea with free shipping. That's about the cheapest I've seen (unless you are a dealer). - Dave
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Old 09-23-2014, 01:41 PM
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As Dave mentioned we have little info to go on regarding the overall condition of your motor. Some diagnosis should have been done before you tore it apart and it was still running. Was it putting out white or blue smoke, were there any sounds that could indicate bearing problems. Did you see any coolant in the oil or a milky appearance to the anti-freeze. Now that you've taken it apart and have decided not to do a complete rebuild you are rolling the dice that your block, bearings, crank and cam are in good enough condition just to do the heads and have a well performing motor. We've all been in the situation where money is tight and we are looking for the cheapest solution. My experience with motors of this age is that the pan is most likely filled with sludge and a failure of the oil pump is inevitable. Also not replacing the freeze plugs in the block is just asking for trouble. And just because the main seal and transmission seals aren't leaking now doesn't mean they won't a month after everything is put back together. Without doing a complete overhaul there are many things that can be replaced that don't cost very much money. At the very least I would pull the pan, clean it out, replace the oil pump and shaft, replace the timing gears and chain and replace the freeze plugs. These can be done without pulling the motor and should cost less than $150.

John
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Old 09-23-2014, 09:25 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I am going to say the antifreeze entered the cylinders when I pulled the heads. Antifreeze poured everywhere when I pulled it off. THe other four cylinders did not have any antifreeze when pulled.

Now for the gaskets... When I pulled everything I could tell they have seen better days, but nothing terrible. I am going to pull the oil pan in the upcoming days and this will tell me but more about how the engine was doing. I ran the car for about 10 minutes and heard no valve taps of bad bearings. It actually sounded healthy for such an old motor besides the leaking exhaust manifold. I will update everyone when I get further in the project.

The heads showed signs of carbon build up, but not bad either. How hard is it to pull freeze plugs with the block in the car? When I pull the freeze plugs should I flush the block out ?
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  #17  
Old 09-23-2014, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
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...We also need to know more about why you decided to tear it down...
You show no more pictures and are not answering my questions. I will not guess further.

BTW, I'm not concerned about a little antifreeze in your cylinders. Pull your dipstick out and let's see what's down there. - Dave
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  #18  
Old 09-24-2014, 10:03 PM
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Update!

Finished Por15 on entire interior. One word of advice to anyone interested in this product. DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN. It will stay they for a few days until the oil in your skin push it out of your pores.

I also finished vinyl dying dash pad and re-installed. You will also notice I am currently installing sound deadening throughout the car. It makes a huge difference with the echoing inside of the car. Should drown out a lot of the road noise.

Lastly, I installed a 3 gauge cluster under the radio. Fits very nicely.

Next part will be attempting to remove the 6 broken exhaust manifold bolts on the cylinder head. Wish me luck!



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Old 09-25-2014, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
You show no more pictures and are not answering my questions. I will not guess further.

BTW, I'm not concerned about a little antifreeze in your cylinders. Pull your dipstick out and let's see what's down there. - Dave

Will do Dave. Once I get the time to take a picture I will update you as what was found. The reason Why I tore it down was the replace as many seals as possible to freshen up the motor.
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  #20  
Old 09-25-2014, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.loeb View Post
...Next part will be attempting to remove the 6 broken exhaust manifold bolts on the cylinder head...
They should come out if you use a good stick welder and six nuts. Oil plugs never want to come out of the block, so I use the same method on them as well. Heating the area will only serve to warp the castings. - Dave
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