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  #11  
Old 09-27-2014, 10:33 AM
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The longer shoe goes toward the back of the car. There were shop manuals printed that had it backwards.

John
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  #12  
Old 09-27-2014, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeGuy View Post
I will look into rebuilding wheel cyls. next and let you know.

Thanks!
With the price of new front wheel cylinders being around $12 from Rockauto I wouldn't recommend rebuilding yours. If they're the originals they're probably scored past the point of being rehoned.

John
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  #13  
Old 09-27-2014, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
The longer shoe goes toward the back of the car. There were shop manuals printed that had it backwards.
Thanks for confirmation! Hopefully that will keep some from making mistakes thinking they did it correctly by the book.

Anyone know specifically what years are incorrect in the Shop Manual?
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  #14  
Old 09-27-2014, 11:59 AM
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Yes, the longer shoe does go toward the rear of the car BUT sometimes both shoes are the same length.

When they are the same length, the manufacturer (or rebuilder) stamps the side of the lining with "PRI" or "SEC". Again, if the same length, the shoe colors will be different because they are not the same hardness. One is usually grayer and the other is darker.

Changing brakes is not rocket science but the installer must know what's really going on. Subtle nuances are particularly important. If this is your first time changing shoes, get ahold of an experienced old timer and let him watch you.

Do your brakes one-at-a-time so the other side can be referenced. Take LOTS of before and after pictures. If you don't use them for reference, someone else might benefit from them. - Dave

EDIT: Follow your Shop Manual. In Section 10 of the 1960 SM, it clearly shows the PRImary shoe is the front shoe and it is shorter.
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 09-27-2014 at 12:11 PM.
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  #15  
Old 10-27-2014, 03:13 PM
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UPDATE and question. Recall our car's brakes grabbed on the front left, then settled down.

After reading the car manual, I bled all the brakes and found no air bubbles, fluid is clean and fresh (last owner must have done some work, brake shoes were like new and rubber brake hose on front right too). After replacing all 4 shocks and adjusting front brakes, car now grabs slightly on front right, then front left, then settles down! Shocks have added a lot of add'l control, though.

Next steps. I am about to order new brake hoses, wheel cylinders, shoes and brake hubs. Already replaced the bearings and will reuse those. QUESTION - Will I be able to remove the brake hoses and bolt up the new ones using the same flare in the steel brake lines?
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  #16  
Old 10-27-2014, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikeGuy View Post
..QUESTION - Will I be able to remove the brake hoses and bolt up the new ones using the same flare in the steel brake lines?
If you live in the 'rust belt' the answer is an emphatic, "NO"!

Since the car spent its life in hot/arid weather, you might very well be successful. I would cut the old hose (yes, cut it half in two), then remove the 'horseshoe clip' by wiggling it out with a pair of 420 Channellocks. Use opposing wrenches, one on the brake line nut and the other on the metal hose end.

If the worse thing in the world happens, brake line is very much available at all auto parts stores. I use brake line bending pliers for all my bends.
CLICK ON THE PICTURE
Lisle sells them for ~$26:

Harbor Freight charges ~$12:
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  #17  
Old 10-28-2014, 11:23 AM
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If you are going to stick with drum brakes, I suggest adding self adjusters to each wheel. 1961 Thunderbird parts fit your drums.
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