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  #1  
Old 08-26-2014, 07:01 PM
60 birdman 60 birdman is offline
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Default Power steering problems 1960 Bird

I am needing a little help. I blew the seals on the power steering valve and instead of rebuilding it I replaced it with a rebuilt unit. I also replaced the return hose (had one made at a hose shop) and changed one pipe to the cylinder with a hose also made at a hose shop. Since then the power part of the power steering does not work below 2000 rpm. The pump is a rebuilt unit that was working before the blow out and the cylinder is a new unit from about a year ago, also working before the blow out. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know.
I am going to exchange the valve for a different one to see if that helps unless someone has a better idea.

Thanks
Leonard
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  #2  
Old 08-26-2014, 07:36 PM
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jopizz jopizz is offline
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Where did you get the rebuilt unit at? Most places require that you send in your old unit to rebuild. Control valves are very tricky to rebuild so I would suspect that's your problem. The hoses shouldn't cause the kind of problem you are having. When you replaced the valve did you get all the air out of the system by turning the wheel side to side a few times.

John
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  #3  
Old 08-26-2014, 08:16 PM
60 birdman 60 birdman is offline
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Default 60 power steering problem

John
Thanks for the reply, I purchased the valve from Larry's Thunderbird. They will send a rebuilt unit and then I will have to send my old unit to them. I have talked to one of the people there and they told me to send it back and they will send me another valve.
Thanks again for your help.
Leonard
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  #4  
Old 08-26-2014, 08:49 PM
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Leonard,

You're welcome. I didn't know that Larry's will send you a valve beforehand. That's good to know. I just sent mine here to be rebuilt.
www.stangerssite.com

They charge about $90 + shipping. Turn around time seems to be about three-four weeks.

John
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  #5  
Old 08-26-2014, 09:52 PM
Tbird1044 Tbird1044 is offline
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If you haven't removed the valve, here are some thoughts.
The p/s pump should develop plenty of pressure at idle and the only difference I can think of is volume at a higher engine speed. Speed should not be an issue for the system to work. Since you said the system worked prior to the change outs, and now only works above 2000 RPM, I would be very suspicious of air in the system. You did change a lot of parts that would allow air to be trapped in the system.
The best way I have found to bleed a p/s system, is to jack up the front end of the car to take the weight of the tires. Then start the car and swing the p/s full right, full left, several times and don't be afraid to hold against the stops for a short period.
Also, I'm not sure if the hoses on the control valve or power cylinder can be reversed, but did you double check to make sure they are all connected correctly?
Nyles
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  #6  
Old 08-27-2014, 11:09 AM
60 birdman 60 birdman is offline
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Default 1960 power steering problem

Nyles
Thanks for replying. I did raise the car up to bleed the system, but that did not seem to help. I probably worked 45 min to an hour trying to bleed to system, but to no avail. I put all the hoses back exactly like they came off, that was the first thing I checked. I even checked the service manual to be sure.
I am going to send the valve back to Larry's, they said that it was under warranty and they would send me another one. They were very helpful in trying to resolve my problem.
Thanks again for your ideas.
Leonard
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2014, 09:29 PM
JamesBorisPerez JamesBorisPerez is offline
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Default I have a question

I have a 1960 T Bird also and have been working on the control valve for a while. I put in a rebuilt valve and everything is fine, but it wants to pull to one side? and ideas?
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2014, 09:40 PM
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I would try adjusting the centering spring. Turn the nut to the right until it gets tight then back it off 1/4 turn.

John
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  #9  
Old 11-21-2014, 12:06 AM
JamesBorisPerez JamesBorisPerez is offline
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Thank you, I will do that next.
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2015, 01:53 PM
ayrwoof ayrwoof is offline
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ayrwoof
Cool

as per previous post jack up the car
make sure steering box is not too loose or too tight and has 130 wt
in it .
problems i seen with my valve spool assembly is:
the big washer that is next to the spool ,on the inboard large seal
will wear to the point they wont hold the seal . i got a a better
one and noticed LESS gap between the seal and the travel tube .
This stopped the drip . Even with old seal . with steering spool
unhooked from pitman arm ,the wheel should have no large
amount of play & steer with your little finger easy Half way
down the wheel spoke. if not pull the box . i set mine up out of
the car on bench .. with zero input shaft play (big nut adj) .
and turned the input shaft with two fingers. Till i found the sweet
spot at center Then removed the the pitman shaft height down till
i found the sweet spot tighten just a very little bit.
added new fomoco seal and then a new aftermarket one also,
on top of ford peice, added 130 , loaded in car ,set colum height
for horn ring to work , .
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