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  #11  
Old 02-12-2010, 04:32 PM
Richard D. Hord Richard D. Hord is offline
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Hey Aaron,
You may not have the money right now, but the front brakes needs to be changed over to disc. The '58-'60 Thunderbird brakes are the same that was on the '55-'57 Thunderbirds and the '58-'60 Thunderbirds weigh roughly 1500 lbs more. The brakes on these old cars are not that great.
I would also get the breather back on her. If she backfires through the carburetor, you got a fire. Keep a fire extinguisher handy anyway!!!
Richard D. Hord
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  #12  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
The '58-'60 Thunderbird brakes are the same that was on the '55-'57 Thunderbirds and the '58-'60 Thunderbirds weigh roughly 1500 lbs more.
Interesting point! From review of the disc brake conversion on the site http://www.squarebirds.org/disc_brake.htm, it does not seem as though it would be that hard of a task to do over a weekend as long as the spindle was machined. I wish the pictures worked in that article. Should i absolutely consider changing over to front discs as compared to saving only 150 dollars and rebuilding the stock drums?
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  #13  
Old 02-12-2010, 07:04 PM
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Default Picture thread of my 59. Multiple shots and questions.

Check the temporary Technical Resource Library website listed in my Signature element at the bottom of this. There is some additional information there about disc brake conversions. Howard and I are involved in doing a disc brake conversion using '68 Mustang rotors, and '70's Chevy S-10 calipers. Going the Mustang route, your original spindles, bearings, bushings, etc. can be used. Which means you should not have the alignment problems others have experienced going the Granada route. We are using Granada disc brake ready rims though.
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  #14  
Old 02-12-2010, 07:35 PM
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im looking at it now, hmm.... very nice! Wish i could afford that rod and custom kit, but thats not happening. When do you think Howard and yourself will have more information on the mustang and s-10 conversion deal?
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  #15  
Old 02-12-2010, 09:47 PM
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The Pittsburg area should have great bone yards. The cheapest way to get disk brakes is if you can find Versailles spindle sets real cheap (spindle, back plate, caliper and rotor = set). Next, if you can't find Versailles spindle sets, see if you can find Granada spindles, real cheap. These spindles replace your originals, but they hold Ford Granada rotors, calipers, and brake pads.

They're getting scarce. If you have to pay more than $200 for the spindle sets, buy Scarebird brackets that bolt to your original spindles. The brackets are neat because they use your oem spindles and they hold GM S-10 calipers and pads. We use Mustang rotors, which fit directly on your spindles; even the bearing and seal sizes are the same as your drums.

In either setup, you need wheels that are designed for caliper brakes (disk brakes). When you do a disk setup, you need a power booster/master cylinder combination, and a combination-proportioning valve (we use old Mustang valves).

We are working on a plan where you can buy the bracket setup parts from different vendors for about $600 or less (minus bone yard 14" Ford wheels). This price includes everything from the booster to the spindles. - Dave
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2010, 11:25 PM
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Have you pulled the heater core yet? Dont buy a new one until you do. My 59 was leaking pretty bad and thought I needed a new core. After pulling it out I found the core to be fine. Ford put the heat control valve on the side of the core and these are the problem a lot of the time. They just dont hold up over time. There is a replacement kit that moves a new control valve to the engine bay for ez access and if it starts leaking it doesnt dump on your carpet. The kit comes with a new fitting and gasket to attach to the core, a new valve that you put in the water hose under the hood and the cable needed to run from your heat controls in the console to the new control valve.

As a few have mentioned already, get a shop manual. It is very helpful when you're trying to get into the heat box under the dash.
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  #17  
Old 02-13-2010, 09:28 AM
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Aaron, the tire wear is probably due to excessive negative chamber... you might be able to see it if you kneel down a few feet away from the front end
Making adjustments before replacing the worn bushings and other bits under there might not be worth it, but it can't hurt to try...
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  #18  
Old 02-14-2010, 12:09 PM
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Hi Aaron
You talked about front end alignment, I rebuilt my complete front end I bought a kit from Knater Auto Products it had everything needed for a complete rebuild then I had alignment it has been good for the last three years yu might think about this because if the bushings on the a-frame are bad it will be very hard to keep a good front end alignment
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2010, 12:10 PM
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Aaron
I forget the kit cost me $425.00 three years ago
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2010, 02:52 PM
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hmmm... i like the sound of that. A nice front end rebuild and some disc brakes would really set the car up a lot better. This leaves me wishing for a 4th gear overdrive and some type of headers. Man, 700$ will not go as far as i would like!

Does that kit replace the front end components with OEM like replacements or is it higher quality pieces?
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