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  #11  
Old 02-01-2014, 05:55 PM
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Dan Leavens Dan Leavens is offline
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Greg I agree with the garage statement as it would be nice to have all that room and a HOIST or two It has some nice looking iron in it already
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2014, 06:50 PM
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Thank you! I am very lucky!

The fab work and welding and grinding continues:

















This just takes hours and hours but it will be done right this time. No BONDO and FIBERGLASS hiding rust anymore.

Tom
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  #13  
Old 02-17-2014, 11:26 PM
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You do excellent work. I do not want to alarm you, but if you haven't done so check your rocker panels for rust. That is the most usual place you find rust on the squarebirds. With the amount of rust up front, I would be checking the rockers.
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2014, 03:09 PM
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Thanks again! My progress is not going as quickly as I would have hoped. Every part needs to be hand made and unfortunately it takes a couple tries to get it right. I am working my way from the front to the back so I have not actually cut the rust around the rockers but so far they look like they were replaced at some point. I just have no idea why they did not do the job properly!









I am still not sure what I should use to undercoat the car with when its complete though.

Tom
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2014, 04:25 PM
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Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on the bare metal.
That gets my vote anyways.

I've used it inside my trunk, and it is really nice stuff.
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  #16  
Old 02-20-2014, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fstr-thanu View Post
I am still not sure what I should use to undercoat the car with when its complete though.

Tom
Although every squarebird I've had has been undercoated it was an option and not standard equipment. It's acceptable to paint the underneath body color. Just make sure you use epoxy primer over your new sheet metal.

John
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2014, 08:09 PM
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When I did the underside of my car, it had the ancient factory undercoating on it. This was removed with an angle grinder and a 3" cup wire wheel. Then I vacuumed all the dust off, and cleaned with Eastwood PRE cleaner. I forget what I used next on the bare metal, but it was something in a spray can.... Then I used non-rubberized undercoating on it. It has held up nicely, but then I am not driving this car out in the winter salt, nor purposely driving in the summer rains either.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:14 PM
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I hope to be finishing up the metal work this week. Does anybody have experience with Ziebart? I was wondering if that would work well as the undercoating. I got a quote of 300.00 and by the time I buy the other products like por 15 or Eastwood I'm spending more and doing it myself.

Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:32 PM
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I'll bet that was a miserable job stripping the old undercoating. I'm trying to strip 7 coats of paint and my garage is covered with about 2 layers of the paint dust.
Nyles
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2014, 12:32 AM
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I have no love for any tar-based undercoatings. The only thing I've seen that works half way decent is cosmoline, used by the Army any time they put something on mothballs.

Phosphoric acid-based paints work well (like POR-15 and a host of others). They seal and convert iron oxide from moisture. Tar does too, but is temporary, and breaks down over time.

I do the converter paint with another top coat. That works as long as the surface isn't scratched away. For stone protection, Ford uses a spray-on latex for their door panels. It is applied after electrocoat and gets baked on when the body is primed. - Dave
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