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  #21  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:17 PM
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Just checked the front brakes hardware today - the HW needs to be replaced indeed. Suppose the rears will look more/less the same. Did not find a way how to remove the rear drums though. Is there an easy way without the need of a special tools?
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  #22  
Old 05-15-2013, 07:10 PM
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What part of this brake looks bad?
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  #23  
Old 05-16-2013, 02:21 AM
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The dust seals are dry rotted-



You need to pull these slightly back (at the bottom) to see if any brake fluid leaks out).

Make sure the rear shoes are adjusted all the way back so the shoes are not contacting the drums. It may be that you have a frozen brake cable(s) preventing pulling the drum. There also forms a rust ridge on the axle shaft where the drum rides. This has to be removed (penetrant - crocus cloth) so the drum will slide off.
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  #24  
Old 05-16-2013, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
What part of this brake looks bad?
The dust seals rotten (don't know if that says anything about the age/functionality of the cylinders), the shoe on the left has the braking surface partialy crumbled off. Othervise not sure, never done this before. But there was a discussion about this earlier - the springs might be loosened by heat, cylinders partially stuck, etc.

For some reason, I feel the cooling and braking ability of the car to be the two of the most important at the very beginning. Thought it would be a good idea to make a fresh start with the brakes by exchanging all these parts as they are not that expensive. What do you think?
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  #25  
Old 05-16-2013, 08:00 AM
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if your brake lines and hoses are originals, I would replace those too.

My car had new brake drum parts (wheel cylinders, shoes, springs) when I got it, but the lines running to the four corners were the originals, and they were nasty.
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  #26  
Old 05-16-2013, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock&Roll Firebird View Post

Thought it would be a good idea to make a fresh start with the brakes by exchanging all these parts as they are not that expensive. What do you think?
I think you are right.
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  #27  
Old 05-17-2013, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock&Roll Firebird View Post
The dust seals rotten (don't know if that says anything about the age/functionality of the cylinders), the shoe on the left has the braking surface partialy crumbled off. Othervise not sure, never done this before. But there was a discussion about this earlier - the springs might be loosened by heat, cylinders partially stuck, etc.

For some reason, I feel the cooling and braking ability of the car to be the two of the most important at the very beginning. Thought it would be a good idea to make a fresh start with the brakes by exchanging all these parts as they are not that expensive. What do you think?
It's always better to be safe than sorry.

There are a few areas I would like to see. One, is the inside of your drums. Are they scored? Tapered? Out of round?

Pull some of the dust covers off without tearing them. What condition is the rubber in? Can you show pictures of your shoes? Clean off the rivets with a wire brush so we can see the depth of wear.

How rusty is your brake fluid and your steel lines? Order three hoses because they always go bad IF they have never been changed or if you don't know how old they are.

You may need to bend and install brake line if your tubing is too rusty. Many of us have already replaced our brake line, especially if you live in an area that uses salt on icy roads, or if you live by salt water.

When heat tempers the spring out of steel, it looses its memory. Pull on the springs and see if they return. If not, change them. I have done many cars without the need for changing springs. Brakes normally get hot from everyday use. 'Riding the brake pedal' or adjusting them too tight will overheat your brakes. Overheating is not common, but it happens.

The only way shoe material 'crumbles' is if something hits the corner (like a hammer). They make shoe material hard enough to last for years.

By the way, do you have a machine shop that will turn drums? If your drums are too big in diameter or they are too far gone, you may need to buy drums. They are VERY important.

When you clean your parts, DO NOT use petroleum products anywhere near brake fluid. DOT3 brake fluid is recommended. I would stay with it and NEVER mix different types of brake fluid. All brake fluid is clear when new. What color is yours? - Dave
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  #28  
Old 05-20-2013, 07:05 AM
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I will make the brake check today and get back here with the results.

Just a basic market orientation question - is there a quality difference among the following brands? Is there a brand that should be left out and one to recommend when choosing (brake) parts?

Centric
Bendix
Dorman
Wagner
Raybestos
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  #29  
Old 05-20-2013, 11:09 AM
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I've used all these brands and haven't had a problem with any of them. Centric is at the lower end of the price scale. Bendix, Wagner and Raybestos have been around for a long time but that doesn't necessarily mean they are better than the others. If you are buying all new brake cylinders I would stick with one brand.

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  #30  
Old 05-24-2013, 07:37 PM
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Today I checked the rest of the brakes. They actually seem pretty well. They must have been partially worked on previously as the brake shoes seem pretty new... Anyway, I will exchange the brake parts - I want to be sure on this.
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