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  #11  
Old 05-08-2013, 07:42 AM
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Brake shoe retracting springs fatigue over time due to heat and/or improper install/removal.
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  #12  
Old 05-08-2013, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
I'm referring to the springs and hold down hardware for the shoes. If they are rusted I recommend new ones. Here in the states they are easy to find and are only a few dollars. If yours look ok you can probably reuse them since you may have trouble finding them locally. You will also need four of these springs if you decide to go to self adjusters. They do not come in the kit. Most of these parts are much cheaper if you get them from Rock Auto than from Mac's.
http://macsautoparts.com/ford-thunde...0R3CHL1118049/
Rock Auto has the same spring for $1.71 for a pair. The Wagner part number is H412. The self adjuster kits are about half the price also. The Wagner numbers are H2512 and H2513.


John
Thank you John. I've noticed that in RockAuto they have very good prices! Do I get it right that I need: total 2 springs kits (4 springs) for the self adjusters and a brake spring kit (4 springs)? Is this the correct one? Also, can you please specify the 'hold down hardware for the shoes' for me? Is it this? Thank you.

Last edited by Rock&Roll Firebird : 05-08-2013 at 08:03 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2013, 07:03 PM
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Also, when doing the brakes - besides the front and rear brake hoses, do I need to replace this?
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  #14  
Old 05-08-2013, 07:56 PM
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You will need two of the adjuster spring kits (4 springs), two of the brake spring kits you posted (8 springs), two hold down kits pictured here. You should also replace all three rubber hoses. There are two in the front and one in the rear. Rock Auto has the hoses also.

John
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  #15  
Old 05-08-2013, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
You will need two of the adjuster spring kits (4 springs), two of the brake spring kits you posted (8 springs), two hold down kits pictured here. You should also replace all three rubber hoses. There are two in the front and one in the rear. Rock Auto has the hoses also.

John
Thank you John, it's clear now. Still, do I need to replace these?
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  #16  
Old 05-08-2013, 09:32 PM
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Those are the rubber hoses for the front brakes that I mentioned earlier. You should order two of them for the fronts and one rear one for the back. Rock Auto has them listed as front and back. They are different.

John
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2013, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
Those are the rubber hoses for the front brakes that I mentioned earlier. You should order two of them for the fronts and one rear one for the back. Rock Auto has them listed as front and back. They are different.

John
There seems to be two types of brake hoses for the front John - if you check this list, you'll see it. That's why I'm not sure which one to pick. And the 'front Wheel Cylinder To Connector' type is not even available on RockAuto'. ...?
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  #18  
Old 05-09-2013, 08:17 AM
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Dave,

When I was just learning how to do brakes my father would say the same thing. "Just sand them down and they'll be fine". It was only after doing two or three and having them leak anyway that I came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth it. Also the new cylinders only cost a few bucks more than the rebuild kits so to me it doesn't pay. There are lots of other places on the car that I can use my elbow grease. Nothing wrong with trying to rebuild your old parts. To some mechanics it's a sacrilege to buy a new part. It's just that most of the cylinders I see after 50+ years have the pistons frozen in the bore and the brake fluid turned to powder. Also after rebuilding my entire brake system with new parts my '59 stops on a dime and has absolutely no fade with drum brakes. Just my point of view.

John
I agree. If the cylinder is corrosion damaged (water in brake fluid causing pitting), the cylinder has to be honed OS and OS piston/kits (if still available) need to be used. On the other hand, today's parts quality is lacking (off-shore and poor design) make replacement iffy.

If the wheel cylinder has OEM markings and you are as anal as I am, they will be re-sleeved with stainless. Changing the brake fluid on a regular basis will prevent most corrosion and brake failure problem(s).

Now this is on an older and/or classic car. Modern cars call for cylinder replacement as it is quicker and cheaper.
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  #19  
Old 05-09-2013, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock&Roll Firebird View Post

There seems to be two types of brake hoses for the front John - if you check this list, you'll see it. That's why I'm not sure which one to pick. And the 'front Wheel Cylinder To Connector' type is not even available on RockAuto'. ...?
Either style is used. You will have to visually verify and match what is on the car now.
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  #20  
Old 05-09-2013, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rock&Roll Firebird View Post
There seems to be two types of brake hoses for the front John - if you check this list, you'll see it. That's why I'm not sure which one to pick. And the 'front Wheel Cylinder To Connector' type is not even available on RockAuto'. ...?
The ones on my '59 are the 14" ones. The only time I've seen those shorter 9" ones are on '58's. They are way too short to go from the brake cylinder to the bracket. The '58's have an inner hose and an outer hose. If you order the hoses that Rock Auto has listed you should be fine. That's what I used on my '59.

John
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