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  #71  
Old 05-15-2013, 03:46 AM
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Rock&Roll Firebird Rock&Roll Firebird is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Jiri, we seem to be going around in circles. Apparently you are not reading my answers but you copy them anyway. Maybe you should hire a local mechanic who is experienced with classic car engines and take his advice.
I can assure you Dave, I read every answer very carefully. I was referring to your 'Going completely around the engine with a IR gun' as I tought you could maybe specify it more precisely (intake, heads, block parts, atc.) as I am sure there will be parts on the engine connected f.e. to the exhaust system (intake) and those will be much hotter than others, I guess...
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  #72  
Old 05-15-2013, 04:58 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Do you have a Shop Manual for the car?

The cooling system will be explained in detail. It will show water jackets and coolant flow.
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  #73  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
Do you have a Shop Manual for the car?

The cooling system will be explained in detail. It will show water jackets and coolant flow.
I do, looked on the water flow already. Do I get it right that I need to IR meter mainly on the block and neither on the int. manifold nor on the heads?
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  #74  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:28 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Coolant flows from the bottom of the radiator (drawn by WP) into the block through the cylinder cores (skirt jackets) to the cyl heads and connected in the intake manifold @ the thermostat housing. It is then regulated flow into the radiator.

Take readings all along this path(s) to determine if any hot spots/blockages.

CORRECTION (To Be More Concise)-

The coolant flows from the WP to and around the cylinder barrels and then is directed to the rear of the cylinder heads where it then flows toward the front of the engine. The coolant head flow is then combined at the front coolant channel in the intake manifold and then is subject to thermostat control.

The MEL coolant flow is just the opposite for those with a 430.

Last edited by KULTULZ : 05-15-2013 at 08:43 AM.
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  #75  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post
Coolant flows from the bottom of the radiator (drawn by WP) into the block through the cylinder cores (skirt jackets) to the cyl heads and connected in the intake manifold @ the thermostat housing. It is then regulated flow into the radiator.

Take readings all along this path(s) to determine if any hot spots/blockages.
Ok, that's clear.
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  #76  
Old 05-15-2013, 08:55 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Post Cooling System Diagnostic Tools

I am going to post this info within this thread-

-Block-Chekô is a complete combustion leak tester - CLICK HERE -

I will also ask poor Ray... ...to post some photos of other COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS, the system pressure tester being the most important.

Here are the pix of the additional diagnostic tools that Gary sent me... "Poor Ray"!

1) Cooling system (including cap) pressure check tool-

2) Shop air actuated cooling system flushing tool-

3) Coolant system refill tool (no air ingestion)

Last edited by KULTULZ : 05-16-2013 at 02:30 AM. Reason: Adding Pix
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  #77  
Old 05-15-2013, 09:15 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected Post #26

I think Ford saw the error in their ways with the original expansion tank design. They later changed it to include ribs for better rigidity.

The 'smooth top' design flexed too much, even with low pressure, causing cracks and leaks. The top surface is about (10 X 6) 60 square inches. 7psi produces about 400 pounds of pressure on the seams. The tank tries to deform itself into a sphere (a ball).

'Leaking surge tank' is a very common complaint. Another complaint is, after being 'fixed' it doesn't last long before another leak develops. Again, it's in the design.

Ford used the correct materials (copper and brass, soldered with lead). If it were made of aluminum, I couldn't fix it and the tank would probably be tossed. Ford's only mistake was not adding enough strength to compensate for the flexing. I just recently returned JohnG's tank after I added three bronze rods that pierce through both top and bottom of the tank. The rod ends and are soldered with silver alloy for strength. This will stop flexing and should end all future leaks due to cracking seams.

I purposely left the tank unpainted to show all the areas of work and the repair methods I used. The idea is simple; the rods act like a bucket with you standing inside pulling on the handle to lift yourself up.

CLICK HERE to see JohnG's expansion tank.

In the last picture, notice the radiator cap pressure is 13 psi. That exerts about 780 pounds of pressure on the seams. I pressure tested this tank @ 19 psi with no leaks. This kind of system pressure is absolutely necessary to keep the boiling point high.

- Dave
Most interesting and informative. I forgot to comment on it earlier.

I used to spend a lot of time at a LINC forum and did not know there was a problem with the early expansion tanks.

Was this just an FE problem or MEL also?
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  #78  
Old 05-15-2013, 02:08 PM
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I don't know about the Lincolns or Mercurys. If Ford used the same parts on them, they must experience the same history.

It seems that these expansion tanks are notorious for leaking. Many of our members bought 'spare' tanks on eBay when they come up. To me, that failure rate is far too high. These brass tanks are easy to repair compared to modern aluminum construction.
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  #79  
Old 05-15-2013, 03:03 PM
KULTULZ
 
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Red face

I should have said 59/60 430 JBIRD...
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  #80  
Old 05-15-2013, 11:49 PM
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ok i admit i didnt read this whole thread but i am currently cleaning up my engine for a repaint and while im at it im changing the timing chainand gears so... i have my water pump off and it would probably be agreat idea to replace it since i dont know how long its been since its actually ran

ive been looking for a replacement water pump i see macs has a "new" one for about 130 my local advance auto cant get one

ive compared my 60s 352 pump with one from a later f/e they are different main thing is the length of the shaft

has any one here found a rebuilt one from someplace else?for a little less money or is there another alturnative?
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