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  #31  
Old 01-07-2013, 11:11 AM
Joe Johnston Joe Johnston is offline
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Soda blasting is more expensive, does not heat and warp sheet metal like sand might, does not remove rust, does not harm rubber, chrome or glass. It is dusty and the sheet metal MUST be washed with some neutralizing product like a vinegar solution. If you have this professionally done, I'm sure they will have the info and products they recommend. Prime all surfaces ASAP with an epoxy primer.
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  #32  
Old 01-07-2013, 12:24 PM
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Follow Joe's advice say no to soda blassting.

Paint companies state side are very cautious with their products being used over soda blasted metal.

I wouldn't want to take the risk.
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  #33  
Old 01-07-2013, 02:44 PM
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Paint dont stick well to anything blasted. All metal need to be sanded one way or another after sand/glass/soda blasting.

Quote from Gene Winfields DVDs.
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  #34  
Old 01-09-2013, 05:35 PM
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I mentioned earlier that I have "chipping" in the paint, and as I now are removing the paint ( Kieth style with hot gun ) I came across the area where most of this chipping is today and found out that around this area is another charcoal colored primer or similar under the lastest red paint. The body is not damaged or anything, so Im totally baffled why only this area is sprayed with this paint The red paint comes off very easy here, but the charcoal area is on the other hand very hard to remove here. It sticks with the original paint underneath like glue. Odd. But it makes my decision to remove all paint the right way to go or I would most probably have a similar situation with the risk of having the new paint "chip" again on the same place.
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  #35  
Old 01-23-2013, 05:54 PM
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After being away from most everything for little over a week, Im back in the garage for some hours every night again. Today I finally got the first side done. Its downhill from here right?
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  #36  
Old 01-23-2013, 07:21 PM
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Anders,

You have a very fine car. I'm drooling over the no rust.

I'm interested in that chipping and other primer. Is there lead filler under it perhaps?

The only other thing I can think of is it was scratched at some point and they used some kind of heavy fill primer.

You might take a ruler or straight edge and place it against the area and see if the metal is straight or slightly concave.

I'm at a lost on the primer chipping. I would have guessed really old bondo checking at first glance.

Anyway you have a fine piece there. I'm off to the GNRS in a few hours, have fun.
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  #37  
Old 01-24-2013, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith View Post
Anders,

You have a very fine car. I'm drooling over the no rust.

I'm interested in that chipping and other primer. Is there lead filler under it perhaps?

The only other thing I can think of is it was scratched at some point and they used some kind of heavy fill primer.

You might take a ruler or straight edge and place it against the area and see if the metal is straight or slightly concave.

I'm at a lost on the primer chipping. I would have guessed really old bondo checking at first glance.

Anyway you have a fine piece there. I'm off to the GNRS in a few hours, have fun.
Thanks. Im amazed myself to be honest. There is no rust what so ever. Texas seems to be the place to buy cars from. Ruth used to live in Fort Worth and Fredricksburg
The primer filling is a strange one. There is no sign of anything different underneath the original paint or around the areas where this blck primer was. I found another area, and that is the part betveen the rear wheel and the rear bumper. The top surface comes off realy easy where the black primer was, but the black primer itself sticks to the original paint much harder then the rest of the paint. Im baffled as you are. Good luck and have fun at the GNRS. Wish I could be there
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  #38  
Old 02-17-2013, 01:30 AM
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Finally got the paint off the car. Only some small parts left that I will do today... One of the good thing by removing paint with the heat gun and a razor blade is also that you will be able to see whats under the paint, and around the openings on the roof, I found that they sprayed some grey paint even before the primer. Perhaps some kind of extra protection? This is done in the factory.
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  #39  
Old 02-17-2013, 05:20 AM
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Nice job, Anders. Look into using phosphoric acid on your bare metal. It's not too expensive (~US$8/quart). It disolves rust and it leaves a phosphate coating on the steel that you paint right over. We use a form of it at Ford (called Bonderite).

Some parts were sprayed in the stamping plant. For instance, the insides of the fenders may have a green zinc primer. Other high-rust areas may have one side of the steel galvanized (like cowl top skins).

I don't know how effective these coatings were. Remember, Squarebirds were made before electrocoat was used. Sometimes the stamping plants would bank parts well ahead of schedule, especially if contract time was coming soon or a press line was scheduled to go down for a major press overhaul (new clutch, brake, gibbs & ways). It was like money in the bank but it also meant finished bare steel parts were sitting in racks and exposed for months before they were assembled. They may have painted some of these parts. Service Parts were painted as well. If an assembly plant was running out of parts, they would immediately deplete all the Service Parts they could, just to keep the assembly line going.

Ever hear of making parts 'just in time'? They did just the opposite back then for 'self preservation'. Many times, our stamping plants flew racks of parts across the country because the assembly plant was about to go down. That's when heads rolled. - Dave
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  #40  
Old 03-09-2013, 05:40 PM
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Some progress here. After sanding down all exterior paint ( will do inside the engine bay, trunk, doors later ) there was finally time for the first layer of Epoxi primer today.
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