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  #11  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:00 PM
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The bevelled washer can be obtained with the inferior teflon/plastic roller sets available from the t-bird parts houses.

Keep the metal parts, and throw away that white teflon junk.

And yes, working on these window mechanisms is a real frustrating and time-consuming endeavor. But you'll be happy when you're done!
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  #12  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota Boy View Post
The bevelled washer can be obtained with the inferior teflon/plastic roller sets available from the t-bird parts houses.

Keep the metal parts, and throw away that white teflon junk.

And yes, working on these window mechanisms is a real frustrating and time-consuming endeavor. But you'll be happy when you're done!
Would it work to have the washer / collar made in brass as well? I have a lathe, so that part, I can do myself.
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:07 PM
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I suppose it would... but it would be pretty thin.
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota Boy View Post
I suppose it would... but it would be pretty thin.
I though of having the section more like a triangle. With a little grove for the spring. The tension will be slightly stronger than the original, but maybe okay?
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  #15  
Old 01-02-2013, 10:16 PM
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I'm not exactly following your thoughts here, but I will say that the door windows are way more "forgiving" than the rear quarter windows.

Any "slop" in the quarter window assembly, and there will be troubles for sure.

FYI = I only have the brass rollers in the rear quarter windows, and the original factory rollers in my door windows.
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  #16  
Old 01-02-2013, 11:36 PM
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Default Vent window frame crack

The metal used on these is cast zinc and from most of us are told one cannot weld these back together. (called pot metal or white metal)

Sandwiching between 2 pieces of steel might work but once done nothing can move or the crack will continue. No recommended by me.

Best is to find good used one as all 3 years are the same.

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  #17  
Old 01-02-2013, 11:47 PM
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Default Removing window Rollers

Dakota Boy got it. But you removed all the bolts so have complicated the job. If the window goes up and down? do so very carefully untill the roller clip is a bit more accessable. the clip can be removed with needle nose pliers.

Reassembly can be dealt with in later posts when you get ready.

As for the rollers they are not stainless steel but galvanized steel or zinc plated steel. Do not buy the new rollers unless rthey are metal. The plastic ones have too much give.

Fuz
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2013, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmjsong1aolcom View Post
...Sandwiching between 2 pieces of steel might work but once done nothing can move or the crack will continue. Not recommended by me.

Best is to find good used one as all 3 years are the same...
Not recommended by me either. Zinc is crap.

This piece is a simple shape. If you can operate a lathe, you could certainly fabricate another of these using steel flat stock. Make the bushing on your lathe and weld it in position.

The window bushings are much easier than they look. You can fight with them all day or pull the little clip out. Putting the arms back together is simple... just push the pins into the rollers. When you get to proper depth, the clip will keep the rollers in the bottom channels.

The dished washers can be made from common stainless steel flat washers. Anders, you can make a forming punch and die on your lathe. I did it on a smaller scale for #8 trim screw washers. When you hit the punch with a hammer, the washer will form into the tapered cavity. The washer's inside hole diameter will expand, so start with the washer hole slightly smaller than the desired finished part. - Dave
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:03 PM
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Just an update how it looks at the moment. Just the door handles and Im ready for grinding down the paint. This is fun!
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  #20  
Old 01-04-2013, 10:28 PM
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Pic of "My vision" ,my "Pearlcrafted" steering wheel and some test objects for laminated plexi for all knobs and stalks
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