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  #21  
Old 01-05-2013, 06:32 PM
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Dakota Boy Dakota Boy is offline
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Default Fired up the car today to test the electric fan

Amazing. that's all I can say.

This car of mine that used to get REALLY HOT in traffic will now sit and idle all day long and never overheat.
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  #22  
Old 05-13-2013, 09:48 AM
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As I decided to go with electrical fan(s) on my '59 and invest the $ info the el. fan & alternator (like your solutiuon Greg) instead of 6-blade & shroud, here are few simple questions:

a) do you think I can find an electrical fans that would fit the '59 on older European cars (Fords, etc.), cause local solution would be much cheaper for me

b) if not, can you advise where to order in US (ideally similar twin fan as on Greg's installation)

c) same as a) & b) but for the alternator (will be using lot of electricity (radio, el. windows, atc.) so I will need a 100+ amp (I guess)

d) what additional hardware is needed to mount the new alt instead of the gen and how difficult is the installation (wiring/setup)
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  #23  
Old 05-13-2013, 10:37 AM
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So, I did some research and found, that Ford Contour is actually an European Ford Mondeo. So I searched for second generation Ford Mondeo spare parts in Czech and voila! Found the exact fan. I was so lucky, that when I called my friend who works in automotive spare parts depot, he offered me this dual fan, brand new and presently in a sale-out for $60! Wish all spares for the Bird would come that easy! Good to know that some of those doesn't need to be brought for the heavy $$$ (shipping, customs, etc.) from the US .

Now the alternator, fan controller and we are done!

Still need a help with c) and d) points from below...

Last edited by Rock&Roll Firebird : 05-13-2013 at 02:17 PM.
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  #24  
Old 05-14-2013, 03:16 AM
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Can you fabricate steel? Can you weld? If so, you can make a bracket for just about any alternator and bolt it to your FE engine. The pulleys are interchangeable but you should go to a place over there that rebuilds starters and generators.

Alternators are about the same size as generators so there is room. If you find a good used alternator in a junk yard, it will also come with all the plugs and connectors. All new alternators have an internal regulator. That means you won't need your old voltage regulator.

The fan controller should be a simple thermostat that 'feels' the middle of your radiator. When the thermostat gets hot, it turns on a relay coil. In turn, the relay closes contacts which makes your fan spin. None of this wiring needs to go inside your dashboard. If your new fan draws 25 amps, use #10AWG copper stranded wire for the power side. The thermostat side can be #18AWG copper stranded wire. Don't forget to protect this wire with a fuse or circuit breaker.

Wiring a Ford alternator is very simple. - Dave
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  #25  
Old 05-14-2013, 03:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Can you fabricate steel? Can you weld? If so, you can make a bracket for just about any alternator and bolt it to your FE engine. The pulleys are interchangeable but you should go to a place over there that rebuilds starters and generators.

Alternators are about the same size as generators so there is room. If you find a good used alternator in a junk yard, it will also come with all the plugs and connectors. All new alternators have an internal regulator. That means you won't need your old voltage regulator.

The fan controller should be a simple thermostat that 'feels' the middle of your radiator. When the thermostat gets hot, it turns on a relay coil. In turn, the relay closes contacts which makes your fan spin. None of this wiring needs to go inside your dashboard. If your new fan draws 25 amps, use #10AWG copper stranded wire for the power side. The thermostat side can be #18AWG copper stranded wire. Don't forget to protect this wire with a fuse or circuit breaker.

Wiring a Ford alternator is very simple. - Dave
Thank you Dave. Do I get it right that I can be looking for an alt from the very same car type that the dual fan came from? I have never welded and do not have the tools for it (maybe it's time to start).

And as for the regulator, I tought I would use the Flex-a-Lite 31163 electronic fan controller (as Greg did). Although I would like to know what are the benefits of this controller (that costs $160) and what is the difference between this and other/cheaper controllers. I'd like to put only quality stuff on the car but on the other hand don't want to spend money for functionality that I may never use. Also think that fan regulators might be found locally as well...
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  #26  
Old 05-14-2013, 08:02 AM
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The controller I used has a sensor that senses coolant temperature vs. just sticking a probe in between the fins of your radiator. It also "soft-starts" the fan motors, and runs them at 60% speed at first; then speeds them up as needed based on coolant temp. It needs no extra relays, etc etc, (I am "electrically-challenged" enough already) and comes with a nice 30amp fuse assembly. There are a few other nice features that are listed on the manufacturer's website.

I figured since I found the dual fan for such a low price, I could spend a bit extra for a nice fan controller.

Keep an extra 30 amp fuse in your glove box. Just in case. I havent needed my spare yet. Maybe I never will.


When you get your fan, you will also need to go to a junkyard and get the wiring harness (with the nice factory plugs) to feed power to the fan motors.

Last edited by Dakota Boy : 05-14-2013 at 08:13 AM.
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  #27  
Old 05-14-2013, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota Boy View Post

The controller I used has a sensor that senses coolant temperature vs. just sticking a probe in between the fins of your radiator. It also "soft-starts" the fan motors, and runs them at 60% speed at first; then speeds them up as needed based on coolant temp. It needs no extra relays, etc etc, (I am "electrically-challenged" enough already) and comes with a nice 30amp fuse assembly. There are a few other nice features that are listed on the manufacturer's website.

I figured since I found the dual fan for such a low price, I could spend a bit extra for a nice fan controller.

Keep an extra 30 amp fuse in your glove box. Just in case. I havent needed my spare yet. Maybe I never will.

When you get your fan, you will also need to go to a junkyard and get the wiring harness (with the nice factory plugs) to feed power to the fan motors.
-#31163 VARIABLE SPEED FAN CONTROL-


What degree thermostat are you using? Does it seem to over-cool with both fans running (I presume)?
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  #28  
Old 05-14-2013, 02:32 PM
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I have a problem with mounting a sensor on the output end of the thermostat. As long as the engine is running, the thermostat won't let coolant out unless it IS hot, so it will ALWAYS be hot.

The thermostat is supposed to sense high RADIATOR temps. If the radiator gets hot, the fan(s) turn on. Just that easy. In winter, the fans may never turn on.

Cars with air conditioning conveniently turn on one fan whenever the compressor clutch is energized, whether the radiator is hot or not because condensers build pressure with heat.

I like Dakota Boy's setup. The only thing I would change is... I would put the sensing thermostat about six inches lower in the radiator because if the coolant level becomes a bit low, air will cool the top of the radiator much faster, giving a false reading to a high sensor. We ran into this before. The guy wanted to know why his system worked fine in the driveway but not on the road. The answer is, coolant draws from the bottom of the radiator, allowing the coolant level (at the top) to fluctuate with RPMs. - Dave
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  #29  
Old 05-14-2013, 02:35 PM
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I have a 180 F thermostat.

The temp. sensor is mounted in a port on the water neck, just above the thermostat. (my engine is a 460, not a 352; and so the thermostat sits right on top of the intake manifold.

On/off setting on the controller is adjustable. My fan cycles on and off as needed. Works perfectly.
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  #30  
Old 05-15-2013, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post

I have a problem with mounting a sensor on the output end of the thermostat. As long as the engine is running, the thermostat won't let coolant out unless it IS hot, so it will ALWAYS be hot.

- Dave
Agreed. The sensor should be measuring coolant temp behind the thermostat (direction of flow). This temp reading will tell when the fans are initiated to help cool the coolant.

But he says his system is working. Maybe he has a coolant recovery system that bleeds air out of the system. If not, I would be concerned with air bubbles in the coolant flow and their not tripping the sensor at times.
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