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  #11  
Old 10-15-2012, 07:06 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Question

Hey Dave,

In addition to both the cut-out switch and inertia switch, what do you think about wiring in a spring loaded toggle switch that can only be activated from the RUN position to prime the system and then when it is primed (pump shutoff) and when the key is turned to START that circuit is then by-passed?

This will hopefully negate cold cranking (building oil pressure) while waiting for the fuel system to be primed.

Old T-950 trucks (gasoline) had a carburetor and electric pump. I will try and find if they had a safety circuit incorporated into theirs.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2012, 01:17 PM
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Gary, I was looking at my 1990 Ford Mustang EVTSM (Electrical & Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manual) to post the wiring diagram. It's very simple. Turn the key on and the pump works through a relay which is controled by an Inertia Sw. As soon as the key is on, the pump starts. Nothing fancy or complicated. If the car gets in a crash, the Inertia switch opens and the gas shuts off. Really, that's what we want.

Oil pressure, time delay or momentary switches were not used by Ford because they aren't necessary. Some guys let their car sit for months so they use electric fuel pumps just to supply gas for startup, then they let the mechanical pump take over. There are many ways to do this so I simply follow the OEM method. - Dave
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2012, 04:38 PM
KULTULZ
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post

Gary, I was looking at my 1990 Ford Mustang EVTSM (Electrical & Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manual) to post the wiring diagram. It's very simple. Turn the key on and the pump works through a relay which is controled by an Inertia Sw. As soon as the key is on, the pump starts. Nothing fancy or complicated. If the car gets in a crash, the Inertia switch opens and the gas shuts off. Really, that's what we want.

Oil pressure, time delay or momentary switches were not used by Ford because they aren't necessary. Some guys let their car sit for months so they use electric fuel pumps just to supply gas for startup, then they let the mechanical pump take over. There are many ways to do this so I simply follow the OEM method.

- Dave
Dave, with EEC-IV, when the car is started, the pump is initiated with the IGN (relays). If the ECM does not see a PIP signal within a set amount of time, the fuel pump circuit is opened. This is a safety say if there was a mechanical problem. The inertia switch trips and opens when a certain impact level trips it.

There is a delay feature built into the system.

What I am getting at is if the engine fails or shuts off, there should be a safety circuit to cut the fuel off automatically free from the IGN SW.

I'll let it go.
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2012, 10:16 PM
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Default Electric Fuel Pump-inertia switch question

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Gary, I was looking at my 1990 Ford Mustang EVTSM (Electrical & Vacuum Trouble-Shooting Manual) to post the wiring diagram. It's very simple. Turn the key on and the pump works through a relay which is controled by an Inertia Sw. As soon as the key is on, the pump starts. Nothing fancy or complicated. If the car gets in a crash, the Inertia switch opens and the gas shuts off. Really, that's what we want.

Oil pressure, time delay or momentary switches were not used by Ford because they aren't necessary. Some guys let their car sit for months so they use electric fuel pumps just to supply gas for startup, then they let the mechanical pump take over. There are many ways to do this so I simply follow the OEM method. - Dave
Appreciate the insights. Found a wiring diagram online for the Mustang....it had wiring symbols galore so I will give it a go with the wording you illustrated in your initial reply which includes the Key Switch-inertia switch-relay.
Your quite right about the storing for months- mid Oct to May at this elevation. I found it interesting that the see thru fuel filter was about a third full with engine running with the elect. pump as opposed to a slight stream running though it with the mechanical pump. I will assume it is OK to leave the mechanical pump on. Thanks Dave and Gary.
As a side note...this forum is great and well laid out. I have been going through each post and gleaning much information. Hopefully I will find posts that address my fuzzy black spark plugs.
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2012, 04:41 AM
KULTULZ
 
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Wink

Quote:
Originally Posted by deany41 View Post

Hopefully I will find posts that address my fuzzy black spark plugs.


If I doo'd it I will get a spankin'... I DOO'D IT!

Are they fuzzy black on the outside or on the tip?
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  #16  
Old 10-16-2012, 11:48 AM
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Default Fuzzy black plugs

Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ View Post


If I doo'd it I will get a spankin'... I DOO'D IT!

Are they fuzzy black on the outside or on the tip?
Appreciate the response...was not expecting any. Will give you particulars below.

The entire inside of the spark plug is covered. Insulator, electrodes, etc. The very tip of the central electrode shows where the spark has burned off the carbon.

Plugs are .035 gapped. Plug is fired by a Crane Cam points conversion ignition system (XR700) in a rebuilt distributer. New Coil, Rotor, Cap, Wires, gears, etc. Carburetor rebuilt. Have rechecked float adjustment a couple times. Timing 6 degrees BTDC. Vacuum advance seems to be working after slipping on hose and watching damper. Newly rebuilt engine by a notable engine rebuild shop here in Montana. Has 390 heads and has a mild performance cam.

Removed wiper hose at manifold to check vacuum. 15 inches. Seems low but have not had chance to trace. Engine starts without a problem. If it has been setting for a while it blows black smoke out the rear initially. Runs OK initially but then starts to rough idle. Have set and reset idle mixture screws. Tried to stick with the 1 1/2 turns that the manual suggests. Must be a lack of oxygen or too much fuel but can't seem to get to the bottom of what to change or try on the carburetor side of this.

Have checked voltages to coil, ballast resister is reading 2 ohms but seeing a drop to 8 volts when grounding negative on coil. (Trying to see if problem is in misfiring). The Crane Cam Fireball kit says to check for phasing (rotor and cap electrode alignment) Requires drilling a hole in the cap to view alignment with a timing light. Have not done this yet. Don't have an exta cap at the moment.

I am getting more than a little befuttled and frustrated. Just retired so I can spend a little more time on it until the snow flies. I am a little challenged until I get grounded with some knowhow on this type of thing once again. Been a while.

Ready to listen to the obvious wisdom that I respectfully have read in many of the posts.
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  #17  
Old 10-16-2012, 01:51 PM
gaffney1951 gaffney1951 is offline
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Default Timing ...

I have found that all of my FE's like more initial timing 14-16deg., but you will need to re-curve your dist. for around 38deg. total and all in by 3000 rpm.. I think you will find this will give you a major gain in performance. Mike
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  #18  
Old 10-16-2012, 01:55 PM
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When you turn the mixture screws all the way in does the engine start to die. Even on a rebuilt carb it's possible that some dirt got in the air passages. Is your tank and fuel lines new. If not the carb will clog in a minute. I assume you have the original 4100 carburetor. I would set the mixture screws using the vacuum gauge rather than the 1 1/2 turns. You should be getting closer to 20 for a vacuum reading.

John
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  #19  
Old 10-16-2012, 02:04 PM
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I second what Mike posted. Put your damper pulley on about 10 degrees BTDC by hand. Pull the distributor cap off and look at where the rotor is pointed. It should be directly in front of either #1 or #6 tower (because while #1 is on its power stroke, #6 is on its exhaust stroke). If your rotor is off by a distributor tooth, timing will be pointed between towers, and must be corrected.

Usually, black spark plugs and smoke is as you said; too rich of mixture. I know it's very hard to get enough air up in the mountains, and HP suffers greatly. - Dave
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  #20  
Old 10-16-2012, 04:53 PM
KULTULZ
 
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If the plugs have a dry soot, the mixture is too rich. If it shoots carbon out of the pipes @ start-up, she is too rich. The fact that the tips are clean verifies the ignition upgrade is working.

Also consider a mal-adjusted choke, its' needing service (sticking/binding) or it is not fully opening (possible weak choke thermostat). It may need to be jetted down. Is the heat riser working or possibly frozen shut? How high is it where you live and do you think it is the original carburetor?

Having your distributor re-curved as suggested will also make it run much better.
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