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  #51  
Old 08-03-2012, 05:49 PM
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Ok I grounded the wire from the sending unit the gauge worked. I can see and get to the retaining ring holding the sending unit in from the access hole in the trunk. I can not get it to turn I tryed the hammer & screw driver trick it wouldn't budge But did not hit it very hard. All of the tools for removing it are very expensive does anyone have a free or cheap way to loosen the retaining ring. how do I check it for good ground?

Thanks, Eric
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  #52  
Old 08-03-2012, 06:14 PM
Richard D. Hord Richard D. Hord is offline
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Hey Eric,
I would spray it with penetrating oil! There are several on the market, pick up at local auto-parts. Let it sit overnight, then give her a try. Also remember righty tighty, lefty loosey LOL!
Richard D. Hord
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  #53  
Old 08-03-2012, 06:27 PM
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After putting some penetrating oil on it you should be able to get a thin screwdriver between the lock ring and the sender. That should help free it up. The lock ring will only loosen in one direction, I think it's counter-clockwise so make sure you are hitting it in the right direction. A screw driver and hammer should work just fine.

John
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  #54  
Old 08-03-2012, 08:09 PM
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Went over to a buddy's one day, and he was changing gas tanks on his daughter's Escort. He had both tanks on the driveway, trying to get the sending unit out of the old rusty-leaky tank. I immediately picked up a screwdriver and small hammer to help.

We both hit that ring on opposite sides at the same time, each at our own cadence. When our 'beats' finally hit together, that ring came flying off. We were both amazed. The new ring went on easily.
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  #55  
Old 08-06-2012, 03:01 PM
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Default Got the sending unit out

It's no wonder the gauge wasn't working there is no float attahched to it, the inside of the tank looks about as good as the sending unit. I have ordered a new tank, sending unit & straps from Rock Auto $304.00 shipped. They didn't offer the filler neck grommet. So I have ordered it from The Birds Nest.
New questions...
Does the new tank need to be washed out?
Where to I place the floor jack at the rear of the car so I can lift it up high enough for my jack stands?
where is the best place for the stands?
Do you use ? plumbers tape on the threads for the fuel line?
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http://squarebirds.org/yellow98cobra/resized/
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  #56  
Old 08-06-2012, 04:05 PM
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The new tank should be fine without washing it out. It's usually got plastic caps on all the openings so nothing gets in it. I usually jack the car up under the leaf spring bracket behind the rear wheels and put jack stands under the axle. Make sure you chock the front wheels. You shouldn't have to jack the car up to remove and install the gas tank. At least I didn't on mine. When I put my new tank in I was getting a slow leak around the fitting so I used teflon tape and it's been fine since.

John
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  #57  
Old 08-06-2012, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow98cobra View Post
...Does the new tank need to be washed out?
Where to I place the floor jack at the rear of the car so I can lift it up high enough for my jack stands?
where is the best place for the stands?
Do you use ? plumbers tape on the threads for the fuel line?
Good and valid questions...
* Your new tank will be tin plated inside and out. It will need no further prep.
* I like to lift each side from under the axle plate (the one that the shock attaches to). Put your jack stands under the spring perches and give your car a good shake before crawling under.
* Your fuel line has a flare fitting, which needs no sealant. If you want, you could put teflon tape on the threads but don't let any get inside the flare seat. Teflon doesn't break down with gasoline and you sure don't need any in your fuel line. BTW, I hope you are running with a fuel filter.

Make sure your fuel line connections don't leak. If they do, your carb will get AIR, not fuel. You can use a clear 'test' hose before the fuel pump, just to see what's going on. Then, replace the old fuel hoes with the new fuel hoes.

New cars use a 'pad' between the tank and trunk floor. Consider repainting that area and don't forget to give your new tank a good ground. - Dave
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  #58  
Old 08-06-2012, 04:28 PM
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Yes there is a filter before the carb. I have ordered a new one.
How should I attach a ground wire to the tank?
The manual does mention a couple of rubber strips on top of the tank.
'pad' between the tank and trunk floor what should I use for this?

Do mean paint the bottom of the car or the top of the tank Home depot sells the spray rubber coating by the can I was thinking about primer the top of the tank and using the rubber sealant spray on the bottom. I saw pictures of a car with a new tank and it looked good in its natural state.
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  #59  
Old 08-06-2012, 04:43 PM
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There's usually undercoating sprayed under the trunk pan. Most times it flakes off. You can reundercoat it or just spray some black paint to prevent rust. The tank doesn't need paint. There were rubber strips on the tank where it meets the trunk pan. I just use some duct tape.

John
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  #60  
Old 08-06-2012, 04:50 PM
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CLICK HERE to see Marcelo's fuel tank change. Marcelo did it right, including a good ground wire that he bolted to his sub-frame. This ground wire ensures the heavy paint will not insulate the tank from body ground. - Dave
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