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  #11  
Old 07-20-2012, 12:32 AM
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John, I think iam one rung below novice. With the test light I clip the alagator clip to the wire and touch the other end to the sending unit?


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Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
The easiest way to check your CVR is to take the wire off the temp sender and put a test light on it. Turn the key on. If the light pulses off and on then your CVR is most likely good. If the light is solid or you get no light then it could be defective. I wouldn't go through the trouble of removing it until you test it first.

John
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  #12  
Old 07-20-2012, 09:57 AM
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No, you ground the alligator clip (the negative terminal on the battery is best if it will reach) and put the point of the test light on the sender wire.

John
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  #13  
Old 07-20-2012, 04:26 PM
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The TEMP and FUEL gauges are nearly identical in the way they work. They each have a movement inside that is spring loaded. Current acts against this spring to make the needle move.

With no power (key is off) the TEMP gauge should 'rest' at or below 'T', and the FUEL gauge at 'E'. If they don't, the movement itself is meeting mechanical resistance and should be cleaned and lubed (like the clock).

The sending unit's job (on each) is to send current through the gauge for the appropriate reading. The TEMP SENDER, when hot, should short to ground sending the most current through the gauge. You can test this by temporarilly grounding the sender's wire to ground; the dash gauge should steadily climb to, "H". With the wire completely removed from the SENDING UNIT, the gauge should slowly return to, "C".

When Squarebirds left Wixom, MI, all the gauges worked properly so there is hope. After fifty years things change but they can be brought back to proper working condition.

There are only three components in dash gauges; the dash Constant Voltage Regulator (or power supply), the dash gauge, and the sending unit.

If you know what readings to expect, each can be tested for proper function while they are in place using simple inexpensive tools, like the 12-volt test light and a jumper wire. A volt meter is helpful but not absolutely necessary. (Harbor Freight usually offers digital volt meters for under five bucks.)

The volt meter's OHM scale may be used to test the SENDING UNIT resistance with the wire disconnected, by putting one lead on ground and the other on the UNIT's exposed terminal. Watch the meter as the engine warms up. Normal readings should go from "~" (infinity, or over 100-OHMs) to around five when the engine is hot.

A low-OHM SENDING UNIT reading, when the engine is cold, indicates a bad or shorted SENDING UNIT. The Shop Manual should have proper reading numbers to expect.

IMPORTANT*** If your CVR has been replaced with a solid state model, your meter should see constant SIX volts, not pulsating 12 volts. Also, if your engine is poorly grounded, the temp gauge will give a false reading. I harp on bad grounds A LOT because they are equally important as power wires. Consider this: If your starter current cannot follow a copper wire back to the battery, it will go through transmission and U-joint bearings because this now is the easiest path.

Please ask questions because sometimes I wrongly assume some information is known. - Dave
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  #14  
Old 07-21-2012, 12:05 PM
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Here are pictures of my ground wire in the original location.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ground 1.jpg (139.8 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg ground 2.jpg (141.4 KB, 72 views)
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2012, 01:02 PM
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Thanks John. I dont see anything like that on my fire wall or fender. I checked for a wire coming from the heads There is no wire contected to it and the firewall for that matter no where on the engine I can see any ground wire going to the firewall. The batterys negative wire is connected to a bracket off of the water pump. the the positive wire runs to the starter solonoid on the fender the wire from the starter runs down under the exhaust and then up along the fender to the other side of the solionoid. there is a small wire attached with the batterys negative wire that goes no where.



I dont know where it is grounded at. Would having more than one ground wire be a bad thing?

here are a few pictures of what it looks like under my hood. http://s943.photobucket.com/albums/ad275/yellow98cobra/
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http://squarebirds.org/yellow98cobra/resized/

Last edited by yellow98cobra : 07-21-2012 at 02:51 PM.
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  #16  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:13 PM
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No, the better the grounding between the engine and body the better your dash gauges will work. More than one is better than none.

John
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  #17  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:19 PM
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what is the proper gauge of wire?
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There are 4 pictures of her here, plus a couple of my namesake.
http://squarebirds.org/yellow98cobra/resized/
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  #18  
Old 07-21-2012, 03:30 PM
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Default I did TEST as suggested here are my results

[\QUOTE=jopizz;67321]The easiest way to check your CVR is to take the wire off the temp sender and put a test light on it. Turn the key on. If the light pulses off and on then your CVR is most likely good. If the light is solid or you get no light then it could be defective. I wouldn't go through the trouble of removing it until you test it first.

John[/quote]
Thanks I gave it a try, heres what I got. I turned the key one Click I beleive that is ON as any further and the car will start. I did as you said touching the point to the disconnected wire and clip to the negative post on the battery nothing happened. I went ahead and connected the wire back to the sending unit. I then started the car and with it running I touched one end to the wire and top of the sending unit and touched the other end to the neg. battery post and the light pulsed on and off.
You should have a ground strap on the passenger side from the back of the head to the firewall. You should have a clamp on the back of the head that the starter cable runs through. This is where one end of the ground cable goes. The other end can be anywhere on the firewall where there's a screw hole.
I have been PM'ing John about this. Thought I would post here for others to see some of our conversation.
His responce to the above...
If you were able to get a pulsing light I suspect that your CVR is good and you have a ground problem or a problem with the gauge.
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http://squarebirds.org/yellow98cobra/resized/
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  #19  
Old 07-21-2012, 06:25 PM
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Whether the engine is running or not makes no difference. Turning the key to the first click to the right should put you in 'IGN' mode. This position turns your gauges on.

You may want to verify that again. With your test light connected to a good ground, the key in 'IGN', and the wire disconnected from the SENDING UNIT, touch the other test light lead to the SU wire. You should see your test light pulse.

Now take the test light lead off of ground and attach it to the body of your car. See if the light still pulses. I would bet it does because without a body ground, the CVR won't pulse at all. With a poor body ground, CVR will pulse with L-O-N-G wait times between pulses. THIS could be the reason why your gauges aren't working properly. - Dave
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  #20  
Old 07-22-2012, 03:48 PM
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I tested it again as you suggested this time without starting the car I did get a pulsing light. I have also ran a small wire from the negative side of battery to the inner fender wall. "As you suggest in the post under anything goes", I think that information should go into the TRL.


Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
Whether the engine is running or not makes no difference. Turning the key to the first click to the right should put you in 'IGN' mode. This position turns your gauges on.

You may want to verify that again. With your test light connected to a good ground, the key in 'IGN', and the wire disconnected from the SENDING UNIT, touch the other test light lead to the SU wire. You should see your test light pulse.

Now take the test light lead off of ground and attach it to the body of your car. See if the light still pulses. I would bet it does because without a body ground, the CVR won't pulse at all. With a poor body ground, CVR will pulse with L-O-N-G wait times between pulses. THIS could be the reason why your gauges aren't working properly. - Dave
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There are 4 pictures of her here, plus a couple of my namesake.
http://squarebirds.org/yellow98cobra/resized/
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