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Old 06-20-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Astrowing View Post

As far as brake drum diameter is concerned, measure it. I would say that 60 thousands over is the absolute limit of a "bit large". Any larger than that, I don't think you're ever going to get acceptable brake performance. Ford advised oversize linings for 30-60 thousands over.
True. And if one decides to machine drums over the allowable amount, the drum becomes weaker and will expand more rapidly (due to heat) during stops and the shoes will not make full contact.

Tech Reading-

The reason given for undersized BIRD front brakes was that a larger drum (as used on the same year FORD) would interfere on suspension parts on a full turn, hence the smaller front shoe/drum size.

A possible consideration would be to employ a later wheel with the needed offset to allow use of a deeper front drum?
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:52 AM
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My 60 Convertible that I drive frequently has manual brakes. It stops almost as good as my cars with Power Brakes. Riveted lining will produce more stopping friction than bonded, and if the primary and secondary shoes are reversed, you will not have good braking. The smaller shoe must be to the front to allow for the "servo" action when the brake is applied.
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:55 PM
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Thanks for that info. I will check on the installation to make sure
i put them on with short shoe on front. I can't remember if.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:13 PM
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Unhappy brake problem

Well, here we go again. I did do everything that was suggested to correct my stopping problem. I did find that the front brakes were out of adjustment,a lot. I the wheels just spun without any drag. I had to turn them out at least 1/2 inch. Thought that I was in the clear. no such luck. Still doesn't stop. I wonder if I got the wrong m/c. I find some catalogs show 58-60 with 1" bore or 1 1/8. Which one does the 59 have? remember I do not have power brakes.

Thanks for any help
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:38 PM
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The Ford shop manual should list the proper manual-brake m/c bore diameter in the back, where all the other specifications are found.
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:32 PM
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If you have manual brakes the bore should be 1". Pretty much that's the only original style master cylinder size you can get anymore. The 1 1/8" master cylinder for power brakes is not available from anyplace I could find. Have you correctly bled the system. I had to do mine a number of times after I replaced all my components before the braking was satisfactory.

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Old 08-28-2012, 12:54 PM
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My first thought aside from adjustment was to bleed the system. Does the pedal feel spongy? If so start from the furthest wheel and bleed them.

When I rebuilt my brakes completely 25 years ago I used DOT 5 fluid (which does not absorb moisture) and teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. The fluid is still clear and the screws come out easily.

I also used a dual master cylinder. I think it's dangerous to drive a car without one.
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Old 08-29-2012, 05:07 AM
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Here's my concern. If I understand your first post correctly, you have recently overhauled the complete braking system with foundation brakes and hydraulics.

My first concern would be proper shoe lining arc and it's same radius as the drums. Years ago, shoes could be arc ground to match the drum dia. If not, the shoes have to wear into (or seat) to the drum arc to achieve full shoe contact and hence full braking capability. In lieu of arc grinding, the shoes have to be seated by driving and during this phase, complete stopping power is diminished. After the break-in period, the shoes have to be adjust again manually to ensure full contact and the self adjusters should then be able to keep the brakes adjusted.

This and a proper system bleed and quality shoes (no ADVANCE AUTO).
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:39 PM
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Red face brakes fix

Well, stupid, stupid, me. After putting car on jack stands,I pulled the wheels and rechecked the brake shoes. They were correct all around, short in the front, long on the back. I then went to the shop manual to check what else I could do, looking up troubleshoot brake problems. Under "Brakes do not work" it gives a number of steps to do. 1. check brake shoes 2. low brake fluid. Well low and behold, __no brake fluid in the m/c. I filled the m/c with fluid. Lucked out- the brakes did not have to bled. The pedal is solid now, at about 1/2" to 3/4" of play before brakes apply and stops the bird. When every thing fails read the directions. I want to thank all the people that made suggestions to help me with this problem.
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Old 08-30-2012, 03:59 AM
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Thumbs up

We all live and learn Dennis. But you found the problem on your own which must be satisfying.
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