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  #11  
Old 05-04-2012, 07:07 PM
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Dakota Boy Dakota Boy is offline
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I have a 460 hooked up to the original radiator.

The radiator is clean, but I needed a fan shroud and some Water Wetter coolant additive. I also have a 6-blade fan.

It doesnt get hot anymore.
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2012, 07:28 PM
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I only have one pic to share:

I'm kinda surprised nobody commented on the heat riser.
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2012, 08:51 PM
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I'm gona get my 60 out hopefully the weekend. Mine is all stock with 4 blade fan and new rad. Good idea with temp gun i'll post results. Ya know best laid planes go south quick.
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2012, 09:11 PM
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Yep - you caught me on the heat riser Dave. I removed the vane on mine 20 years ago or more so don't have to worry about it as far as heat build up. Of course - it would be nice to have it on those cold fall morning drives. At the time nobody had a replacement either NOS or aftermarket.

Good catch.....

Penelope's block looks like it pooped - good (no great) example of how the minerals in the water, additives, and etc can build up in the block.

I like the temp gun idea too Grant - will get some readings next time I have the Tbird out for a cruze.

Eric
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2012, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKheld View Post
Yep - you caught me on the heat riser Dave. I removed the vane on mine 20 years ago...
430's never had a heat riser valve. We don't need them, either. That's why aftermarket offers a replacement spacer.

Question: How could conventional flush methods clear out crud like in the pic if all coolant must flow through the head gasket holes? This core plug is in the center of the block so you know the rear cylinders never saw flow.
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  #16  
Old 05-05-2012, 04:36 PM
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I would take the thermostat out and test run it. If the temp is back to normal then you have a faulty thermostat. (even if thermostat was new). If temp is the same (really hot) then you most likely have a blockage somewhere.

Try the thermostat thing and give us an update.
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2012, 11:04 PM
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Thermostats can be installed backwards also so worth checking if you don't know the history. I had mine in my 223 backwards because I put it in the housing first and not in the block. It's easy to do and it will overheat pretty fast.
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  #18  
Old 05-07-2012, 02:00 PM
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Thanks to all for your thoughts. After reading everyone's advise, I have decided to stay with my original plan of replacing the fan and shroud, flusing everything out, replacing the T'stat, and hoping for the best. If that's not enough, then I will have to consider bigger problems like the block's water passages being plugged, etc. I will post again with the whole story after I get her up and running. For sure, she's no good to me if I can't drive her, so I have no options but to get her fixed. I'll either be back with good news in about 10 days or looking for more advise. Either way, I appreciate everyone taking the time to get me headed in the right direction.
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Old 05-07-2012, 02:45 PM
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Check your heat riser valve first.
It's mounted on the outside, takes no special tools, and is easy to remedy without spending money.

Edit: I like Charlie's answer. Throwing money at ANY problem doesn't always fix it unless you get very lucky. It's a cooling SYSTEM; any component failure along the way will cause overheating. Find out where the problem is by practicing proper troubleshooting techniques. Two simultaneous problems usually throw off most back yard mechanics. Prove each component one-at-a-time and don't get sidetracked.
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Last edited by simplyconnected : 05-07-2012 at 03:39 PM.
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  #20  
Old 05-07-2012, 02:59 PM
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Don't throw parts at it. Test it. Is it boiling over or is the guage reading hot. Is it hot at idle or highway speeds or both. Pressure testers can be rented from Auto zone. Put a thermometer in the coolant and find actual coolant temp.
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