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#1
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![]() My 59 convertible is in the shop to install the rebuilt 390 and C6 transmission. They pulled the engine today and then noticed that my lower A Arm bushings were in bad shape. So I had to make a run to Larry's T-Bird and get new bushings. While we are at it I decided to replace the upper arm bushings too.
When they went to install the lower driver side A Arm bushing they found the mounting hole was cracked so it needed a weld. Nice to find it now. Its much easier to do this work with the engine out. Just shows old cars are always full of surprises, pays to check everything. Hopefully they will have the front end repaired by tomorrow and then get back on the engine and trans. |
#2
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![]() This is why we have mandatory Warrant of Fitness checks here in New Zealand, to pick up on that sort of thing..
Some car owners would do nothing in the way of maintenance unless they were forced to.
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A Thunderbirder from the Land of the Long White Cloud. |
#3
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![]() ***Reminder***
Keep your bushings loose until the car is on level ground. Then tighten them (per the Shop Manual). I agree, Scumdog... how does anyone do a front end alignment with no bushings?
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My latest project: CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build. "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?" --Lee Iacocca |
#4
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![]() I found out why you need to wait till the car is on the ground to tighten the suspension bolts. I told the guys working on my car not to tighten them until the car was on the ground. They did as I asked but there was one problem. They put the car down with the engine and trans still out of the car and the tightened the bolts. Then they installed the engine and trans. When I looked at it today it looked like a Gasser being launched hard at the drag strip.
They have promised to loosen the bolts again and then re-torque them with the car on the ground. Other than that the 390 and C6 are installed they just have to deal with some linkage problems and a few other small items and it should be good to go in a couple of days. I will post some pictures soon. |
#5
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![]() Hope you got a picture of it. That sounds cool.
Well, at least now that you know how to fix it. ![]()
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Jim Jimz Greenie with a White Hat and Brown Guts (ZE-XG) CLICK HERE for Jimz web site |
#6
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![]() Quote:
I hope this info gets to you in time. - Dave
__________________
My latest project: CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build. "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?" --Lee Iacocca |
#7
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![]() Quote:
They need to loosen the bolts before installing the engine. Lower the engine and then re-torque the bushings. Once the insulators are twisted, they will never settle to proper trim level. |
#8
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![]() Too late the engine is already installed. I can only hope that it will settle when they loosen the bolts.
I printed out the page of the shop manual for them, but I guess they didn't understand that the engine had to be installed first. Last edited by lawyercalif : 04-26-2012 at 11:38 AM. |
#9
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![]() We run into this a lot, where mechanics really don't understand what's really going on. You may want to search for mechanics who know better.
Notice (in your picture), the inner sleeve of your bushings have teeth on the ends? That is to make sure the sleeve does not turn on the bolt or shaft. So, the only part that flexes is the urethane. Urethane only twists so far before it separates and breaks apart.
__________________
My latest project: CLICK HERE to see my custom hydraulic roller 390 FE build. "We've got to pause and ask ourselves: How much clean air do we need?" --Lee Iacocca |
#10
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![]() Spoke to the mechanic and he swears they have not tightened the bolts yet.
He was not there when I looked at the car yesterday. I cannot understand if they were not tightened why the car is sitting probably 4 inches higher than before. He says it will settle, I guess I will wait and see. |
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