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  #11  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juantejeda View Post
...Those are, in fact, the instructions and diagram that I have followed,..
What was your resistance reading before installing the steering wheel?
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  #12  
Old 04-09-2012, 08:36 PM
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Default Horn issues

I'm not sure what you mean by "What was your resistance reading....". I didn't know I was supposed to take a resistance reading.
All I know is that prior to taking off my Steering Wheel everything worked properly. The horn worked and the Turn Signals worked and disengaged during the turning movement.
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2012, 09:28 PM
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I still say all it needs is a slight adjustment of the steering column but if you want to make a mountain out of a molehill go right ahead. I've only done a few dozen of them.
  #14  
Old 04-10-2012, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juantejeda View Post
...I removed the Steering Wheel to get it refinished... ...If I since it down too much the horn will honk continuously and I have to loosen it up, then when I try to honk the horn with the horn ring it does not work, yet when I push down (in) on the Steering Wheel it honks the horn...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jopizz View Post
...It sounds like your column is too far up and that's why you can't fully tighten the wheel.
John, nobody is questioning your mechanical skills. He took the wheel apart to restore it. He can tighten the wheel but when he does, the horn honks continuously. The wheel is so far up that the signals won't cancel.

Juan, the resistance check pertains to picture #5 in the site I posted. Using your meter on the OHM scale; put one prod on the center metal and the other prod on the bottom plate, they should be insulated from each other.

I have to assume all your parts are there including the snap ring. There should be a gap between the snap ring and that bottom plate. When you push the horn ring, the bottom plate touches the snap ring and the horn blows. After straightening this insulation assembly out, then mount the steering wheel.

Tighten the wheel all the way down on the spline.

Let's see a picture of your snap ring with a feeler gauge under it. Send it to simplyconnected@aol.com and I will post it here. - Dave
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  #15  
Old 04-10-2012, 07:55 PM
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Default Horn issues

OK, I will give this a try, just can't get to it right now. I will probably get to it this weekend and I will start by doing a resistance reading and then make sure that all is assembled properly. I will take pictures as I go and send them, as soon as I have them.
Thanks you everyone for all the input, Lord knows I need all the help I can get.
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  #16  
Old 04-15-2012, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
John, nobody is questioning your mechanical skills. He took the wheel apart to restore it. He can tighten the wheel but when he does, the horn honks continuously. The wheel is so far up that the signals won't cancel.

Juan, the resistance check pertains to picture #5 in the site I posted. Using your meter on the OHM scale; put one prod on the center metal and the other prod on the bottom plate, they should be insulated from each other.

I have to assume all your parts are there including the snap ring. There should be a gap between the snap ring and that bottom plate. When you push the horn ring, the bottom plate touches the snap ring and the horn blows. After straightening this insulation assembly out, then mount the steering wheel.

Tighten the wheel all the way down on the spline.

Let's see a picture of your snap ring with a feeler gauge under it. Send it to simplyconnected@aol.com and I will post it here. - Dave
Two questions.

1. What are you calling the "Snap Ring"?
Is it the clip ring that is under the "C" ring that disengages the horn?

2. How would you measure a gap after the Steering Wheel is in place and is there a certain gauge feeler that needs to be used?
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2012, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juantejeda View Post
...1. What are you calling the "Snap Ring"?
Is it the clip ring that is under the "C" ring that disengages the horn?

2. How would you measure a gap after the Steering Wheel is in place and is there a certain gauge feeler that needs to be used?
#1. No. I guess the proper term is "retaining ring":
... to me, 'snap ring' is the same thing or if you prefer, "C" ring.
#2. How much space? Just enough so the bottom plate and "C" ring don't touch. It's not very technical, but five thousandths of an inch (.005") will do. More gap is even better.

The object is to make sure your bottom plate is electrically isolated from that "C" ring. You can check this on your bench. As said, if your meter shows zero ohms between the bottom plate and center steel, they are touching and your horn will blow. Check all insulators, including the nylon around the bottom plate screws.

The top spring pulls up on the bottom plate, off of the "C" ring. When you push the chrome Horn Ring, you counter-act the spring and send the bottom plate down on the "C" ring.

If your cork is too thick, spring is too weak, or an insulator is missing the horn will blow. If the "C" ring is missing, your 13318 (Cam - Turn Indicator Turn Off) will short, and the horn will blow. So, the "C" (retaining ring) is VERY important for a few reasons. - Dave
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  #18  
Old 04-15-2012, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
I think your horn insulator (B8S-3672-A) is either installed wrong or it has deteriorated with age. Bird Nest has one for ~$3.00 (search for part #580HBI).

Here is a site to show proper assembly illustrations from our members: Click Here

The fact that your horn sounds is good because it proves your wiring is good back to the relay. Pushing down on the wheel and having the horn sound proves that the brass brush isn't normally making contact, but when you push, the brush touches the shorted horn ring causing the horn to blow.
I need the 4108 Washers, any idea where I can get them? Also, as for the 3672-A, is that the Cork insulator?, if so I replaced that one.
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2012, 08:44 PM
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Default Horn problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplyconnected View Post
#1. No. I guess the proper term is "retaining ring":
... to me, 'snap ring' is the same thing or if you prefer, "C" ring.
#2. How much space? Just enough so the bottom plate and "C" ring don't touch. It's not very technical, but five thousandths of an inch (.005") will do. More gap is even better.

The object is to make sure your bottom plate is electrically isolated from that "C" ring. You can check this on your bench. As said, if your meter shows zero ohms between the bottom plate and center steel, they are touching and your horn will blow. Check all insulators, including the nylon around the bottom plate screws.

The top spring pulls up on the bottom plate, off of the "C" ring. When you push the chrome Horn Ring, you counter-act the spring and send the bottom plate down on the "C" ring.

If your cork is too thick, spring is too weak, or an insulator is missing the horn will blow. If the "C" ring is missing, your 13318 (Cam - Turn Indicator Turn Off) will short, and the horn will blow. So, the "C" (retaining ring) is VERY important for a few reasons. - Dave
OK, so how do you upload pictures to the Thread?
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2012, 08:49 PM
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Default Horn issues

OK, took it all apart and put it back together. I had to replace the three washers (double insulated) that hold the back plate to the spring. I found some nylon washers, but they are not double like the originals, but I figured that they should work. Well they apparently didn't, I get a zero reading when I check with my meter. I checked before I took it apart and It seemed to be OK at that point, so I'm guessing that the nylon isn't working properly. The reason I replaced the washers was because one of them broke and it would not stay it place. Any idea where I can get the washers?
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